Wine Diary - June 2005


2003 David Bruce Pinot Noir, Central Coast
A bit astringent, with some tannin and perhaps wood keeping the fruit somewhat locked in. Fairly dark color, moderate intensity and length, but lacking the seductive charm of perfumed California PNS. On the other hand, it probably suffered by being preceded by a fine, complex 2000 Sanford Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County. I'm told that the price is $12 at Costco.
Rating: Good +
2003 Sancerre, Pascal Jolivet, France
Superbly balanced, with refreshing acidity, real depth, medium-bodied with a long taste to savor. A textbook Sancerre. Price was $44 at Abba in Orleans, Cape Cod.
Rating: Very Good
2002 Napa Wine Co. Pinot Blanc, Napa Valley
Close to full-bodied with good acidity, integrated wood, golden color, dry, lingering taste. A fine substitute for California chardonnay that avoids the excesses of the latter. Price was $29 at the Impudent Oyster in Chatham, Cape Cod.
Rating: Very Good -
2002 Waterbrook Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, Washington
This SB has a lot going for it: flavor, intensity, lingering taste, good acidity, bright golden color. But it clearly wore out its welcome in the barrel by acquiring far too much wood, otherwise I might consider it "very good". Close-out price $9; regular price $13.
Rating: Good
2003 Robert Hall Sauvignon Blanc, Hall Ranch, Paso Robles
Straight-forward SB, a little subdued overall, but clean, with good acidity. Light straw color, moderate length. Close-out price $10; regular price $15.
Rating: Good
2001 Meursault, Domaine Joseph Matrot, France
A lovely example of what white burgundy should be: round and complex, with all components in balance, including acidity that is neither sharp nor soft. Deep golden color, a bit fuller than medium-bodied, with long, lingering taste. A wine to sip slowly and savor. Close-out price $22; regular price $31.
Rating: Very Good +
2003 The Stump Jump, d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale, Australia
A blend of grenache, shiraz and mourvèdre (73%, 14% and 13%, according to Parker), dry, with luscious fruit, light tannin and some wood for a bit of firmness. Flavorful intensity with a fairly long taste, but little complexity. Fairly dark color, with purplish tinge. A good buy at a regular price $11, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good ++
2001 Niersteiner Ölberg Riesling Kabinett, Seebrich, Rheinhessen
Sweetness level at the lower end of Kabinett, riesling bouquet, good acidity, and a bit of spice. Subdued intensity and depth, with moderate length. Smaller-scale than expected for a Rheinhessen wine. Regular price was $9, less 10% discount.
Rating: Good
2002 Greco di Tufo, Benito Ferrara, Italy
Somewhere between medium- and full-bodied, with golden color. Dry, with good acidity balancing lots of fruit and just enough wood. Flavorful, with some complexity, and a long taste. Restaurant price $39 at Oleana.
Rating: Very Good
2003 Tohu Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
California style, with lots of varietal fruit, and lovely perfume in bouquet. A bit more than medium-bodied, with a fairly long taste. Mild tannin and wood help to emphasize the fruitiness, but do provide some complexity. Fairly dark color for a PN. An interesting winery as a wholly-owned Maori enterprise. Regular price $20, less 20% discount.
Rating: Very Good

Note added 4/21/07: A bottle opened recently did not have the same character - not the same perfumed aroma, nor as much depth or length. It may be that the wine did not age well over the two additional years, and is better enjoyed young.
2004 Beaujolais-Villages, Louis Jadot, France
Exhibits some firmness and structure, along with non-sweet strawberry fruit. Good acidity, moderate intensity and length. With a slight chill, a good summer wine that is more than just quaffable. As before, I prefer the Jadot to the fruitier, sweeter, DuBoeuf version. Served with chicken piccata. Regular price $11, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good ++
2002 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
Fairly dark for a PN, varietal bouquet, moderate intensity with good sweet-cherry fruit. Good acidity, lingering taste. Served with grilled chicken breasts and a peach salsa. Close-out price $11, regular price $16.
Rating: Very Good

My notes of Feb. '04 were a good deal more subdued. Did the wine evolve, or was one of my evaluations off-target?
2001 Pinot Bianco "Haberlehof", Alois Lageder, Alto Adige
One of the best pinot biancos so far: a bit of weight without heaviness, acidity brings a lift to nice fruity complexity, long taste. Golden color. A pleasure to sip and savor. Served with grilled salmon. Close-out price $12, regular price $19.
Rating: Very Good
2001 Coriole Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, McLaren Vale, Australia
In the chardonnay style, but fairly well-balanced. Somewhat more than medium-bodied, a touch of austerity and a bit of herbal character, mellowed by wood without vanillin, moderate acidity, fairly long taste. Close-out price $12, regular price $19.
Rating: Good ++
2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Domaine de Coussergues, Vin de Pays d'Oc, France
Bright and refreshing, dry with very good acidity, some herbal character. A bit light-bodied and none too long, but well put-together for the price. Sale price $7, regular price $8.
Rating: Good +
2001 Dürkheimer Hochbenn Riesling Kabinett, Fitz-Ritter, Pfalz
Kabinett-level sweetness. Riesling bouquet, medium-bodied with moderate spicy intensity, moderately long taste. A bit low on acidity, as expected from a Pfalz wine. Don't recall price.
Rating: Good ++

Red-tag close-out sales this month:
Whites:
2003 Robert Hall Sauvignon Blanc, Hill Ranch, Paso Robles ($10, orig. $15)
2002 Waterbrook Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($9, orig. $13)


Reds:
2000 Pommard 1er Cru, Les Grands Epenots, Vieilles Vignes, Vincent Girardin, France ($24, orig. $34)
2002 Wild Horse Pinot Noir, Central Coast ($15, orig. $22)
2002 Byron Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley ($19, orig. $28)
2000 Talley Pinot Noir, Arroyo Grande Valley ($22, orig. $32)
1998 Montevertine Riserva, Radda in Chianti ($18, orig. $25)



Last updated 4/21/07

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