2005 Meursault, Louis Latour, France
Somewhat on the lighter side, with good very acidity and fruit of moderate intensity, light on oak. Clean and well-balanced, with good length. Served along-side a 2005 Viré-Clessé by Bret Brothers (just below) which, in my opinion, had more to offer. Price unknown.2005 Viré-Clessé, Climat "La Verchère", Bret Brothers, France
Rating: Good ++
A wine of depth and complexity, intense without being heavy, vanillin oak along balancing acidity giving it a bit of buttery character. Long, complex taste. Another winner by Bret Brothers. Close-out price $25; regular price $40.2002 Ksara, Château Ksara, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
Rating: Very Good +
Fairly closed in, with substantial tannin and some wood, sufficient fruit and enough acidity. Bordeaux-like but fairly austere. Better the next day, so it will need to age for some years yet. Serving it after a fruity pinot noir also did not help. Close-out price $15; regular price $24.2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, La Bernardine, M. Chapoutier, France
Rating: Good +
Somewhat austere with good acidity, dryness, a touch of wood, moderate intensity and good length. Well-balanced, but I expected more complexity and some charm. Restaurant price $70 at Abba in Orleans, Cape Cod.2004 Lynmar Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
Rating: Good ++
Lots of depth and some complexity of warm dark red fruit, with a long taste. Sufficient acidity and some structure, though perhaps just trace of residual sugar. Nice aroma too. Close-out price $27; regular price $39.2005 Vavasour Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Very Good +
Quite different from the 2004 version, which had more of a burgundian character - this one is fairly fleshy with lush dark raspberry fruit, and with loser acidity. Lots of intensity without complexity, little tannin or wood, and and a fairly long taste. More of a drinking that sipping wine. Close-out price $13; regular price $19.2003 Cambria Julia's Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley
Rating: Good ++
Everything one might want in a California pinot noir: fragrant and aromatic, a bit on the lighter side in color and body, nice intensity with a long taste. Light on tannin and oak. A reliable winery with a great value o price ratio. Has also held well over several years. Regular price $17, less 20% discount (bought some years ago).2001 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett, Domdechant Werner, Rheingau
Rating: Very Good
Color of deep tarnished gold shows its age, but hasn't harmed the wine. True Kabinett-level sweetness with nice riesling aroma and flavor. Fairly long taste. Price unknown - bought many years ago.2003 Dhronhofberger Riesling Spätlese, Grans-Fassian, M-S-R
Rating: Good ++
This riesling fits the reputation of the very hot 2003: sweetness close to Auslese but without the balancing acidity to support it. There's lots of riesling flavor, but the wine gets a little cloying. Close-out price $14; regular price $28.2006 Molamatta, Collio Bianco, Marco Felluga, Italy
Rating: Good +
A new name and type to me. Deep golden color. Depth and intensity with a fairly long taste. Well-balanced with integrated wood and a bit of fatness. Sufficient acidity. Close-out price $11; regular price $17.2005 Vavasour Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Very Good -
On the fuller-bodied side, with lots of intensity, but with acidity not as crisp as many NZ SBs. Fairly long taste. Close-out price $10; regular price $16.2006 Morgon, Georges duBoeuf, Jean Descombes, France
Rating: Good ++
A nice combination of characteristic dark strawberry fruit with some firmness, fruity without sweetness. Good intensity with some depth, and a fairly long taste. Close-out price $11; regular price unknown.2007 Pinot Grigio, St. Michael-Eppan, Südtirol - Alto Adige, Italy
Rating: Good ++
A pinot grigio with some character: moderate intensity and length with some depth, from a reliable producer. Close-out price $9; regular price $13.2004 Isabel Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Good ++
Quite a good California-style PN, aromatic, moderate intensity with some depth, dry without austerity, with mild tannin and good acidity, and a fairly long taste. The NZ Buying Guide says that the winery seems to have declined with the 2005 vintage, but this one is certainly worth having. Close-out price $20; regular price $30.2000 Lamezia Riserva, Cantine Lento, Italy
Rating: Very Good
A blend of local grape types, giving a raspberryish flavor with some depth and good intensity. Mild tannins and good acidity give it some structure as well as an overall softness. Nice aroma, and fairly long taste. Close-out price $13; regular price $26.2006 Dão, Casa de Santar, Portugal
Rating: Good ++
Medium-bodied flavorful white wine, with some floral notes and a certain softness. There is some vanillin wood to add to the taste spectrum, with sufficient acidity. Moderately long, pleasant taste. A good house and summer wine with some character. Close-out price $9; regular price $13.2004 Langenloiser Grüner Veltliner, Kamptaler Terrassen, Weingut Bründlmayer, Kamptal, Austria
Rating: Good ++
More depth than many Grüner Veltliner, with acidity toned down some and so contributing rounded edges. Moderately long taste. Close-out price $7; regular price $10 (half-bottle).2003 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Schönborn, Rheingau
Rating: Good ++
Surprisingly, this 2003 version tastes better than the 2005. There's a lovely riesling aroma, good acidity, and some Rheingau spiciness from age. Golden color. Good intensity with some depth and a fairly long taste with a touch of apricot. Sweetness toward upper end of Kabinett despite 10% alcohol - no doubt due to the very hot year. Close-out price $12; regular price $18.
Rating: Very Good -
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2004 Langenloiser Grüner Veltliner, Kamptaler Hochterrassen, Weingut Bründlmayer, Kamptal, Austria ($7, orig. $10)
[Half-bottle]2003 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Schönborn, Rheingau ($12, orig. $18) 2006 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Selbach, M-S-R ($9, orig. $13) 2004 Niersteiner Ölberg Riesling Eiswein, Seebrich, Rheinhessen ($18, orig. $26)
[Half-bottle]2005 Vavasour Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($10, orig. $16) 2005 Sauvignon Republic Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($12, orig. $19) 2007 St. Michael-Eppan, Pinot Grigio, Südtirol - Alto Adige, Italy ($9, orig. $13)
Reds:
2004 Chianti Classico Riserva, Castello d'Albola, Italy ($17, orig. $23) 1999 Carmigano Riserva de Vigne Alte Montalbiolo, Cambria, Italy ($15, orig. $25) 2004 Cambria Pinot Noir, Bench Break Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley ($22, orig. $33) 2002 Elke Pinot Noir, Donnelly Creek Vineyard, Anderson Valley ($19, orig. $30) 2004 Londer Pinot Noir, Estate Grown, Anderson Valley ($30, orig. $??) 2007 Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir, Carneros ($19, orig. $27) 2006 Orogeny Pinot Noir, Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($30, orig. $40) 2005 ZD Wines Pinot Noir, Carneros ($32, orig. $43) 2005 Andrew Rich Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($22, orig. $33) 2007 King Estate Pinot Noir, Oregon ($20, orig. $30) 2005 Vavasour Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand ($13, orig. $19) 2007 Dolcetto d'Alba, Bricco Bastio, Conterno Fantino, Monforte d'Alba, Italy ($13, orig. $19)
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