2003 Zenith Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New ZealandVery similar to the 2002 Zenith Pinot Noir: fruit-driven, no noticeable tannin or wood, flavorful without much complexity. A bit more varietal character and depth. Regular price $16, less 25% discount.2001 Cantina Ascheri Gavi, Cristina Ascheri, Italy
Rating: Good ++Very similar to the 2002 Cantina Ascheri Gavi, except that the color is not as deep. Close-out price $10, regular price $15.2001 Mantinia, oak fermented, Domaine Spiropoulos, Greece
Rating: GoodSimilar to a white bordeaux: very good acidity, balanced vanillin oak, moderate intensity that picks up over time, moderate length. Golden color. Price unknown.2001 Johannisberger Klaus Riesling Spätlese trocken, Prinz von Hessen, Rheingau
Rating: Good +Actually bought by mistake, because I didn't see the "trocken" in smaller print until later. Worth trying, and not only because of the close-out price. The wine is indeed fermented dry to 12% alcohol, and is in the Alsatian style. It has some floral bouquet, and the delicate riesling character stands out clean, light, elegant, and fairly long. There is not even a hint of bitterness that taints many dry rieslings. Probably the best dry riesling that I've tasted, admittedly from a small sample. Close-out price $11, regular price $16.2004 Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Very Good -A favorite of mine from many years ago, when it was very acidic but held some promise. It continues to be one of the best examples of Marlborough SBs: lots of varietal fruit with grassiness in check, vibrant acidity, intensity without weight and a long taste. Lovely aroma as well. Regular price $16, less 20% discount.2000 Atlas Peak Sangiovese, Atlas Peak, Napa Valley
Rating: Very GoodLots of fruit, with some tannin and without excessive wood. Softer and less acidic than a chianti classico. Dark color, some depth and a fairly long taste. Served with moussaka. A 2000 Renwood Zinfandel, Sierra Series at the same meal compared favorably. Regular price $14, less 20% discount.2003 Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett, Josef Leitz, Rheingau
Rating: Very GoodIf this is a Kabinett, then it must be at the absolute upper end of the sweetness scale. It tastes more like Spätlese to me, certainly compared to the 2002 Riesling Qualitätswein, von Simmern and the 2001 Johannisberger Klaus Riesling Kabinett, Prinz von Hessen (below). That makes it a problematic food match since I don't expect this much sweetness from a Kabinett. The wine itself is flavorful, with lots of riesling taste and aroma, some depth and a fairly lingering taste. It is very likely to profit from several years of age to develop some complexity and spiciness while losing some sugar. Sale price $12.2001 Carneros Creek Pinot Noir, Los Carneros Reserve, Carneros
Rating: Good ++
Note added July 28, 2009: About four years later, the wine has indeed developed complexity and depth, with a long, luscious taste. There is still substantial sweetness, but the acidity nicely balances it.
Rating: Very Good +A very good example of the California style: lots of fragrant cherry fruit, but with some depth, and with tannin and wood just out of sight. The wine grows in the glass, and delivers lingering taste. Close-out price $20, regular price $30.2001 Marsannay "Les Echezeaux", Domaine Saint-Martin, France
Rating: Very GoodCompared to the Carneros Creek (just above), there's less forward fruit and noticeably more wood, but well-integrated. There's substance to the wine (it's not quite as full as the Carneros Creek), and good acidity helps the lingering taste. The difference between French and California style is very clear. A fine buy at a regular price of $18.2004 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Very Good -
But see the tasting note of July '06, where the wine does not show nearly as well!?!A lighter and milder version than the 2002 Oyster Bay, with a little grassiness, less acidity than typical of a Marlborough SBs, some softness probably due to a bit residual sugar, moderately long. Sale price $9.50, regular price $13.2002 Riesling QualitŠtswein, von Simmern, Rheingau
Rating: Good
This is the second 2004 Marlborough SB with some residual sugar, the other being the 2004 Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc, "Private Bin". One has to hope that this is not a trend to make a good product more easy-drinkingly popular.More sweetness than the 2001 Johannisberger Klaus (just below); good as an easy-drinking aperatif. Floral bouquet and good acidity. No particular complexity, with moderate intensity and length. Close-out price $7, regular price $11.2001 Johannisberger Klaus Riesling Kabinett, Prinz von Hessen, Rheingau
Rating: GoodGood acidity with sweetness toward the lower end of Kabinett makes this an appealing, refreshing wine with a bit of elegance, good with food. Floral bouquet, moderate intensity and length. A good deal at a close-out price of $8; regular price $12.2001 Montevina Terra d'Oro Zinfandel, Amador County
Rating: Good +Blackberry fruit and deep red color, with noticeable tannin. Acidity is a bit low, which makes the wine soft and a bit hollow. Moderately long taste. Regular price $16, close-out price $11.2002 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley, California
Rating: Good +Everything in balance, fruit, acidity, and wood, except that there appears to be some softness due to residual sugar. Moderate intensity without great length. Regular price $18, close-out price $10.1999 Rodney Strong Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, California
Rating: GoodFloral perfumed aroma promises varietal fruit and delivers. Nicely balanced, without excessive wood or tannin, with moderate intensity and fairly long. Good with food and to sip by itself. Price unknown.1998 Husch Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California
Rating: Very GoodIn the French style: subdued fruit, oak and some tannin; moderate intensity and length. Only a touch of floral character in the bouquet. Not a sipping wine, but the austerity goes well with food. Regular price $17, close-out price $12.2002 Klein Constantia Sauvignon Blanc, Constantia, South Africa
Rating: Good +Full-flavored and tending toward full-bodied. Well-balanced with abundant fruit, good acidity and a touch of wood without vanillin. No grassiness, lingering taste. A bit chardonnay-like, without the bad attributes. Regular price $16, less 20% discount.2003 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Very GoodNot nearly as good as the 2002 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir: a bit more fruit and less acidity than the 2001 Borthwick. Moderate intensity and length. After the flavor fades there is some remanent wood taste. Regular price $18, less 25% discount.2001 Borthwick Pinot Noir, Waipara, New Zealand
Rating: GoodThe wine is marked by quite high acidity, without enough fruit to match it. Subdued bouquet, moderate intensity and length, a little too much wood wood. Not much charm here. If pinot noir is typically seductively feminine, then this one is a thin, angular woman with a pinched expression. Served with roast chicken. Regular price $20.2002 Esk Valley Riesling, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand
Rating: Good -Dry style (like"trocken"), yet with floral riesling bouquet. Moderate intensity with lingering taste. Refreshing acidity. One of the best dry rieslings I've come across: very well-balanced without any trace of harshness or bitterness despite the lack of any residual sugar. That being said, I still believe that riesling shows itself best when at least off-dry. Served with broiled king salmon. Regular price $15, less 20% discount.2001 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay, Sonoma County
Rating: Very GoodLots of varietal fruit as well as buttery vanillin from oak. Sufficient acidity; a bit fat with lots of intensity, and fairly long taste. Unfortunately there is also more than a trace of residual sugar, as in the Kendall-Jackson model. Too bad - this could have been a much better wine if fermented dry with less exposure to oak. Regular price $13.
Rating: Good
Consistent with previous note of July 2003.
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2002 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley ($10, orig. $18) 2001 Kuentz-Bas Riesling Tradition, Alsace, France ($11, orig. $16) 2001 Pinot Bianco, Haberlehof, Alois Lageder, Alto Adige, Italy ($13, orig. $19) 2002 Riesling Qualitätswein, von Simmern, Rheingau ($7, orig. $11) 2001 Johannisberger Klaus Kabinett, Prinz von Hessen, Rheingau ($8, orig. $12) 2001 Johannisberger Klaus Riesling Spätlese trocken, Prinz von Hessen, Rheingau ($11, orig. $16) 1999 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese, Dr. Fischer, M-S-R ($9, orig. $14) 2001 Cristina Ascheri Gavi, Piedmont, Italy ($10, orig. $15) 2001 Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves, France ($9, orig. $13)
Reds:
2001 Montevina Terra d'Oro Zinfandel, Amador County ($11, orig. $16) 2001 Montevina Terra d'Oro Zinfandel, Deaver Vineyard Old Vines, Amador County ($16, orig. $23) 2002 Montevina Terra d'Oro Zinfandel, Deaver Vineyard 100 Year Old Vines, Amador County ($16, orig. $23) 2001 Carneros Creek Pinot Noir, Los Carneros Reserve, Carneros ($20, orig. $30) 2000 Saintsbury Pinot Noir, Carneros ($19, orig. $27) 1998 Silverado Vineyards Sangiovese, Napa Valley ($11, orig. $15) 2001 Rully Les Villeranges, Faiveley, France ($12, orig. $17)
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