European River Cruise: from Budapest to Amsterdam via the Danube, Main-Danube Canal, Main and Rhine rivers, not for wine-tasting as such, but we sampled several wines during those two weeks. (see).
2003 Evans & Tate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, Australia
Good acidity, dry with some crispness, less floral character than I expected from 60% semillon. Between light- and medium-bodied, no great depth or complexity but well-made, with moderately long taste. Light color. Sale price $10, regular price $20.2005 Robertson Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa
Rating: Good +
Not much in the way of special SB character, a bit soft with reasonable acidity, moderately long taste. Sale price 3 for $25, regular price $10.2004 Dolcetto di Dogliani, Poderi di Luigi Einaudi, Dogliani (Piemonte), Italy
Rating: Good
Deep purplish color, lots of fruit, very good acidity, noticeably tannic at this point, fairly long taste. It has the components to age well. Close-out price $14, regular price $20.2000 Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc, France
Rating: Very Good
Lots of fruit, not much of the cabernet cigar-box character, deep dark color, some tannin, integrated wood. Not much complexity at this point, but the wine looks young; on the other hand, the acidity is a bit low. This has the same flavor profile of some California wines that held for a long time but never improved. Price unknown.2002 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale, Italy
Rating: Good ++
Good sour-cherry fruit, lively acidity, a little tannin, well-integrated wood, moderately long taste. I expected a little more from the top-of-the-line Rizerva Ducale, but found not that much complexity or aroma. Close-out price $18, regular price $25 (initially sold as close-out price $9, regular price $13,clearly mis-labeled).2003 Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe
Rating: Good ++
Lacks the depth and intensity of other years - it tastes subdued and a little flat. It does not have the excess sweetness of many 2003s, but could use a little more acidity. Close-out price $12, regular price $18.2005 Chenin Blanc, Robertson Winery, South Africa
Rating: Good
Favorably reviewed in a recent NYTimes article, and I would agree. Chenin blanc, like riesling, is at its best when not vinified bone-dry, and this has just a trace of off-dryness. Good intensity and a bit of honey in the flavor, nice acidity, and a fairly long taste. Golden color. Sale price 3 for $25.2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Anastasi Estates, Messinia, Greece
Rating: Good ++
Good fruitiness with mild cabernet character, moderate intensity without much depth. Also good acidity, a touch of tannin and light wood. Taste is none too long. Best as a house wine that can stand up to well-flavored food. Better than some thin, acidity Bordeaux's masquerading their terroir. Regular price $10.2002 Schellhardt Pinot Noir, California
Rating: Good +
A new name to me, without much presence on the Web, but apparently a good one. The label says "handcrafted with natural yeasts and traditional Burgundian methods, aged in French oak and bottled without fining"; also "cellared and bottled by Arcanum, Oakville, CA". The wine has good cherry/raspberry fruit with depth and intensity, some floral pinot noir aroma, and a fairly long taste. There is good acidity and some firmness, but oak and tannin are well-integrated. This pinot noir is somewhere between Burgundian and Californian, with California fruit but without residual sweetness, and some Burgundian structure and acidity. Regular price $27, less 20% discount.2004 Warwick Sauvignon Blanc, Professor Black, Simonsberg Stellenbosch,
Rating: Very Good
Fairly full-flavored, but carries its weight well, with sufficient acidity and a light touch with wood. In other words, it's not trying to be a chardonnay, remaining sauvignon blanc without the New Zealand grassiness. Fairly long taste. Close-out price $14, regular price $18.Tasting at Brookline Liquor Mart: Wines of Burgundy (20% off three bottles)
Rating: Good ++2004 Chablis Premier Cru, La Forest, Domaine Dauvissat-Camus, France2002 Cristina Ascheri Roero Arneis, Piedmont, Italy
Superb acidity, lean and flinty, moderate intensity, light on wood, long taste. Light color. It's what I expect of a fine Chablis. Regular price $35.1999 Meursault 1er Cru, "Les Tessons", Domaine Caillot, France
Rating: Very Good
Very well balanced with lovely acidity and just the right amount of wood. Has depth and complexity, and a long taste. Moderately golden color, and still tastes young. Regular price $34.2004 Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Rijcjaert, France
Rating: Very Good +
Austere, acidic, without much flavor, depth or length. Regular price $18.75.2004 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, en Virandot, Domaine Marc Morey, France
Rating: Good
Not nearly as much depth as the Meursault above, somewhat lean and austere, long taste. It's well-put-together, elegance in a super-model body, but doesn't seem to have the substance to develop. Regular price $67.The above were the white burgundies. The reds that I tasted were uniformly acidic, with mild aroma and subdued sour-cherry fruit. California pinot noirs may be too fruity, masking the magic French concept of "terroir", but red burgundies seem too often to exploit the word to put out lean, acidic wines.
Rating: Good +
Past its prime, with deep golden color showing a brownish tinge. Once fairly full-flavored, the wine has acquired a bit of hardness and astringency. When younger, it was probably close to the very good 2003 version. Close-out price $10, regular price $15.2005 Dolcetto d'Alba, Poderi Colla, Italy
Rating: Good +
Deep purplish color, lots of fruit, but also a good deal of wood, reluctant aroma. Moderate intensity, and taste a bit short at this point. This may be a wine that needs time to come to balance, and to expand. Close-out price $11, regular price $16.2006 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Good
Prototypical New Zealand SB, a bit more toward the lean than lush side. Very well balanced, dry, with good acidity, and fruit without grassiness. Fairly long taste. Regular price $18, less 20% discount.2003 Saint Aubin 1er Cru, En Remilly, Olivier Leflaive, France
Rating: Very Good
Has all the characteristics of a good white burgundy, but is a little fatter than I prefer - I would be glad to to sacrifice some body for some more acidity. It is flavorful, with some complexity, well-balanced, and has a fairly long taste. Close-out price $24, regular price $35.2003 Montevina Sauvignon Blanc, California
Rating: Very Good -
Has a softness that could use more acidity and intensity; mild flavor that's pleasant, without any noticeable wood. Moderately long taste. Close-out price $8, regular price $12.2004 Robert Hall Rosé de Robles, Paso Robles
Rating: Good
According to the label, a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. A bit lighter than medium-bodied, dry, with a mild raspberry fruitiness, some fragrance, and sufficient acidity. Enjoyable, with no need to sip and ponder. Close-out price $7, regular price $10.
Rating: Good +
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2002 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru, En Remilly, Olivier Leflaive, France ($24, orig. $35) 2004 Warwick Sauvignon Blanc, Professor Black, Simonsberg Stellenbosch, South Africa ($14, orig. $18) 2005 Mud House Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($11, orig. $15) 2004 Elk Cove Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($12, orig. $17) 2003 Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett, Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe ($12, orig. $18)
Reds:
2004 Dolcetto d'Alba, Pian Balbo, Poderi Colla, Italy ($11, orig. $16) 2004 Dolcetto di Dogliani, Poderi di Luigi Einaudi, Dogliani (Piemonte), Italy ($14, orig. $20) 2001 Côtes du Rhône, Eric Texier, France ($10, orig. $15) 2003 Roessler Cellars Pinot Noir, Red Label, Sonoma County ($22, orig. $30)
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