Wine Diary - May 2004: Mosel Trip


This year's vacation trip was to the Mosel valley, together with my German relatives. We stayed in the lovely small town of Neef, which is downstream of the more famous wine towns. Along with long hikes, a boat ride, viewing old castles and general sightseeing, there was also the opportunity to taste a number of wines not seen in the U.S.



Some wines of Krötz & Sohn and Weinkontor K. Kissel (Rheinhessen) were available at the guest house where we stayed. Most wines cost about €3.50 per bottle, a stunningly low price.
2000 Neefer Frauenberg Riesling-Hochgewächs, Krötz & Sohn, M-S-R
The popular favorite among us for evening sipping: Lovely riesling taste and bouquet. Sweetness between Kabinett and Spätlese, fairly long taste, nice intensity; can gain with age.
Rating: Good +
2000 Neefer Rosenberg Riesling Qualitätswein, Krötz & Sohn, M-S-R
Very similar to the above.
Rating: Good +

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2000 Neefer Rosenberg Riesling QbA, Trocken, Krötz & Sohn, M-S-R
Relatively austere, with subdued riesling bouquet. Well-made and unflawed, but missing the charm of that touch of sweetness. A food wine, too dry as an aperatif.
Rating: Good
2002 Portugieser Rotwein QbA, Halbtrocken, Weinkontor K. Kissel, Rheinhessen
Lighter-colored than a red wine, but darker than a rosé. Bouquet strong and a bit musty. Fresh, young, not quite dry, with moderately long taste. Pleasant as an aperatif.
Rating: Good -
2002 Dornfelder QbA, Trocken, Weinkontor K. Kissel, Rheinhessen
Dry, fairly dark red color. Raspberry bouquet, moderately intense and long taste.
Rating: Good
2002 Mainzer Domherr (Riesling?) Kabinett, Weinkontor K. Kissel, Rheinhessen
Typical of a Rheinhessen white wine, it had less acidity than the 2002 Neefer Rosenberg Riesling Qualitätswein (above), but also more intensity and a bit of spice. The taste was fairly long. I'm not certain that this was a riesling (i.e., whether I forgot to record that from the label), but it tasted like one.
Rating: Good +


Lunch of "Bauernsülze mit Bratkartoffeln" in the nearby town of St. Aldegund was accompanied by
2001 St. Aldegunder Klosterkammer Riesling QbA, Halbtrocken, Ernst Krause, M-S-R
The "halbtrocken" supplied a trace of charm to a properly made riesling, with a light bouquet. Good acidity, light intensity, good length, but not especially notable.
Rating: Good


At an evening meal of "Forelle, Brathering Art" at a Straußwirtschaft (permitted to serve cold food and wine) in Neef, I tasted some wines from Weingut Rüdiger Nelius:
2001 Neefer Frauenberg Riesling Kabinett-feinherb, Weingut Rüdiger Nelius, M-S-R
A wine of some elegance rather than power: young, will gain complexity with maturity, sweetness level at lower end of Kabinett, light intensity, lingering taste. Pure and balanced.
Rating: Good ++
1999 Neefer Frauenberg Riesling Spätlese-feinherb, Weingut Rüdiger Nelius, M-S-R
Mature, but will hold. Seems more like Kabinett than Spätlese. Subdued intensity and length, with a bit of an off-flavor.
Rating: Good -
2003 Neefer Frauenberg Riesling Spätlese-feinherb, Weingut Rüdiger Nelius, M-S-R
Very fresh, uncomplicated and young, Spätlese sweetness, very good acidity, moderate length. High potential with some age.
Rating: Good +


After a steep hike from Bremm up the Calmont slope to the top, what did we find but a hut where wine was available by the glass and bottle, from Weingut Michael Franzen. Known as the steepest vineyard slope in Europe, Calmont offers grapes a warm southern exposure.
2003 Bremmer Calmont Riesling QbA feinherb, Weingut Michael Franzen, M-S-R
Kabinett-level sweetness, good acidity, already showing some depth and complexity, long taste.
Rating: Good ++
2002 Bremmer Calmont Riesling Spätlese, Weingut Michael Franzen, M-S-R
Spätlese-level sweetness, balancing acidity, tastes quite young. Intense, with long taste but undeveloped, best with some years of age. I bought a bottle for €8.00 and brought it back to enjoy with Christmas goose in a few years.
Rating: Good ++

Tasting note from the 2005 Christmas dinner with, yes, roast goose (see).


One evening there was a tasting of eleven wines from Weingut Alfons Nelius for the ten of us, with the vintner providing commentary on his wines as well as wine-making on the Mosel. Among other things, we learned about the subtleties of "trocken", "halb-trocken", "feinherb" and "lieblich", "QbA - Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete", "Hochgewächs", and more. The portions were generous (0.1 liter glass per wine), and the wines varied and good.

Part of the pleasure of the tasting, and of the next morning when we all bought some wine, was meeting the winery namesake Alfons Nelius, whose son-in-law was actually running the winery (along with a day job). A large man with a twinkle in the eye, an easy sense of humor, and stories to tell, he was truly a part of the land and its wines.
2003 Neefer Petersberg Dornfelder Rotwein, Trocken, Weingut Alfons Nelius, M-S-R
Yes, since 1987 it's been permissible to make red wine on the Mosel! This one is dark purplish red, dry with good berry fruit, with good intensity but relatively short taste.
Rating: Good
2003 Neefer Petersberg Rotling - Rosé Qualitätswein, Weingut Alfons Nelius, M-S-R
A custom blend of about 60% Dornfelder, 40% Müller-Thurgau. There's a touch of sweetness, and sufficient acidity. Relatively light, it's a good summer wine.
Rating: Good
2001 Neefer Frauenberg Riesling Spätlese, Trocken, Weingut Alfons Nelius, M-S-R
Riesling bouquet without seductiveness, fairly long taste, vinification to "trocken" emphasizes the acidity, light intensity. Pure and overall fairly austere. Well-made, but just not my style. Alcohol at 10.5%.
Rating: Good (+)
2000 Neefer Rosenberg Riesling Qualitätswein, Halbtrocken, Weingut Alfons Nelius, M-S-R
Bouquet more floral than the previous wine (just above), slight sweetness, fairly long taste with good acidity. Alcohol at 10%.
Rating: Good ++
2002 Neefer Petersberg Müller-Thurgau + Bacchus Qualitätswein, Weingut Alfons Nelius, M-S-R
A custom blend of two somewhat lesser grape types. Very fruity bouquet, fairly sweet at Spätlese level, not much complexity or subtlety.
Rating: Good
2002 Neefer Petersberg Kerner Qualitätswein, Weingut Alfons Nelius, M-S-R
Another lesser grape type. Not much bouquet or complexity, moderate length.
Rating: Good
1998 Neefer Frauenberg Riesling Hochgewächs, Weingut Alfons Nelius, M-S-R
Spätlese sweetness, has gained complexity from age, fairly long taste
Rating: Good ++
1997 Neefer Frauenberg Riesling Auslese, Weingut Alfons Nelius, M-S-R
Has gained compexity with age, but will develop further. Spätlese-level sweetness, moderate intensity and fairly long taste. Alcohol at 7.5%. I bought a bottle for €5.30 and brought it back to enjoy with Christmas goose in a few years.
Rating: Very Good -

Tasting note from the 2005 Christmas dinner with, yes, roast goose (see).
2003 Neefer Rosenberg Riesling Kabinett feinherb, Weingut Alfons Nelius, M-S-R
Young and already quite complex with some spiciness. Long taste, very good acidity
Rating: Very Good
1999 Neefer Frauenberg Riesling Auslese, Halbtrocken, Weingut Alfons Nelius, M-S-R
Fairly dry, long taste, slight bitterness, subdued intensity.
Rating: Good


Finally, we had a very fine dining experience at the Tannenhof Restaurant in the Berlin suburb of Schöneiche. Since it was "Spargel" season (the white asparagus, most likely from renowned Beelitz), we chose Spargel with smoked salmon and parsleyed potatoes. The Spargel in this restaurant, whether from selection or cooking procedure, is exceptional, with unmatched delicacy and a touch of sweetness.

An added attraction was an offer by our waitress to show me the restaurant winecellar. Besides commenting on their wide selection, I recommded that they look into New Zealand sauvignon blancs. Although we were no longer at the Mosel, the wine I chose for dinner, being from the Saar, continued the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer theme:
2000 Ayler Kupp Riesling QbA, Bischöfliches Konvikt, M-S-R
Nicely aged, with some depth and complexity, no more than Kabinett sweetness, moderate intensity and long taste. Golden color appropriate to some age. Price €14.
Rating: Good ++



Last updated 10/26/05

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