Wine Diary - May 2009


2004 Vavasour Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
Leaning toward a burgundian style, with some perfumed aroma, refreshing acidity with sour-cherry fruit, integrated wood, moderate intensity and good length. Close-out price $17; regular price $23.
Rating: Good ++
2002 Carneros Creek Pinot Noir, Los Carneros Reserve, Carneros
Reliably made in an appealing California style: aromatic aroma, warm raspberry/cherry fruit without sweetness, good acidity, light wood, with some depth and good length. Compares well to versions from other years. Close-out price $18; regular price $24.
Rating: Very Good
2002 Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett, Josef Leitz, Rheingau
Reliably good producer with a well-known vineyard. Good riesling aroma and taste, Kabinett-level sweetness, moderate intensity and length. This one is just a bit less than I expect from Leitz. Close-out price $11; regular price $15.
Rating: Good ++
2007 Niersteiner Findling Pinot Meunier trocken - Weissherbst, Weingut Franz Karl Schmitt, Rheinhessen
A rosé of some substance, dry, good acidity, good intensity and length. Probably better than the equivalent red wine. A great deal at a close-out price $8; regular price $12.
Rating: Good ++
2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (blanc), Domaine du Père Caboche, France
A wine with some depth, weight and good intensity, dry without austerity, good acidity, some complexity and a long taste. Wood is well-integrated. Close-out price $21; regular price $30.
Rating: Very Good
2003 Mönzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Kabinett, Emrich-Schönleber, Nahe
Despite the hot 2003 vintage, this wine has admirable acidity to go with lovely riesling bouquet and taste. Kabinett-level sweetness. Still tastes fairly young, with moderate length. Could use just a bit more intensity.
Great buy at a close-out price $8; regular price $16 (someone else noticed and grabbed the rest).
Rating: Good ++
2006 Beaujolais Blanc, Château du Chatelard, France
Made from old vines, so that held promise. The label includes "chardonnay" to help the consumer. Although there is good acidity, it doesn't do enough to lift the wine out a bit of heaviness. The intensity is good, and some wood to give it weight, but the flavors somewhat unfocused. Moderately long taste.
Close-out price $12; regular price $18.
Rating: Good +
2006 Luigi Bosca Sauvignon Blanc Reserva, Maipu Mendoza, Argentina
Made in a weightier style, perhaps with chardonnay in mind. It doesn't work. There is no freshness, the acidity is down, and there's the burden of some wood. Medium-bodied, with a moderately long taste.
Close-out price $13; regular price $19.
Rating: Good
2003 The Four Graces Pinot Noir Reserve, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Fairly full-flavored and dark, with some structure and PN character. Mild tannins and sufficient acidity; fairly long taste. Not your elegant burgundian type.
Close-out price $22; regular price $43.
Rating: Good ++
2007 Bechtoldsheimer Petersberg Gewürztraminer Spätlese, Weingut Ernst Bretz, Rheinhessen
Interesting labeling - the front label says only "Gewürztraminer Spätlese"; the year, village and vineyard are all on the back label in small print. No matter, this is a surprisingly good wine. Good varietal character with sweetness somewhere between Kabinett and Spätlese. There is also good acidity, unusual for a gewürztraminer. Moderate intensity and length. A great deal for the price.
Close-out price $6; regular price $11.
Rating: Good ++
2006 Chablis, J. Moreau & Fils, France
Fairly undistinguished. Mild chardonnay character, moderate intensity and length, with none of the flintiness and austerity one would expect from a Chablis. Just in case you don't know, they put "chardonnay" on the label.
Close-out price $15; regular price $23.
Rating: Good
2004 Saint-Joseph, L'Élouède, Les Vins de Vienne, Cuilleron-Gaillard-Villard, France
With the second wine from this group of producers, a house style is starting to emerge. This one, like the Saint-Peray, tends toward full-bodied, with some fatness and reduced acidity. It doesn't have quite the flavor interest and depth of the Saint-Peray. It has a golden color and a fairly long taste.
Close-out price $19; regular price $30.
Rating: Good ++
2003 Châteauneuf du Pape, Les Sinards, Perrin & Fils, France
Not a powerhouse, flavorful with some firmness and tannin; it does not display the softness or low acidity of the hot year. Moderate intensity with some depth, with a touch of complexity and a fairly long taste. It will probably profit from some more age.
Close-out price $23; regular price $33.
Rating: Very Good -
2006 Côtes du Rhône, Réserve Grand Veneur, Alain Jaum & Fils, France
Flavorful, with some softness and only mild tannin; for easy drinking with some character. Moderately long taste.
Sale price $13.
Rating: Good +
2004 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Narbantos, Mongeard-Mugneret, France
One of the better red burgundies that I've come across: firmness, very good acidity and some tannin to go with cherry/sour-cherry fruit. Some depth and a long taste. By comparison, a 2004 Acacia Pinot Noir seemed a bit unfocused, and just a touch chemical.
Close-out price $19; regular price $38.
Rating: Very Good +
2002 CL Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
Finally opened this bottle, which had been around for a number of years. Californian in aroma and taste, with raspberry/cherry fruit and some depth, as well as a fairly long taste.
Regular price $22, less 20% discount.
Rating: Very Good
2002 Opolo Pinot Noir, Paso Robles
Tastes like a battle between a high-extract zinfandel and a pinot noir. Deep and dark, lots of blackberry fruit, and 14.5% alcohol, but it does have the perfumed pinot noir character too. Intense flavor, with a long taste. There's some tannin, but it's not intrusive; a bit more acidity would help. A big, powerful wine that could overwhelm lots of food; no burgundian elegance here.
Close-out price $16; regular price $23.
Rating: Very Good -
2002 Viré-Clessé, Climat "La Verchère", Bret Brothers, France
My concern that this might be too old was unwarranted. The color was a deep gold. A true white burgundy with intensity and some body, but also the good acidity to carry it. Long taste. Great accompaniment to broiled salmon.
Close-out price $12; regular price not known, although a previous sale price was $22.
Rating: Very Good +

Red-tag close-out sales this month:
Whites:
2006 Sauvignon Blanc Reserva, Luigi Bosca, Maipu - Mendoza, Argentina ($13, orig. $19)
2008 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
[Surprisingly low sale price - people are not buying bottles of wine in restaurants]
($20, orig. $??)
2006 Sancerre, Domaine Cherrier et Fils, France ($14, orig. $21)
2006 Chablis, J Moreau & Fils, France ($15, orig. $23)
2006 Chablis, J Moreau & Fils, France ($15, orig. $23)
2005 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers, France ($24, orig. $32)
2005 Viré-Clessé, Climat "La Verchère", Bret Brothers, France ($25, orig. $40)
2006 Beaujolais Blanc, Château du Chatelard, France ($12, orig. $18)
2004 Saint-Joseph, L'Élouède, Les Vins de Vienne, Cuilleron-Gaillard-Villard, France ($19, orig. $30)
2003 Dhronhofberger Riesling Spätlese, Grans-Fassian, M-S-R ($14, orig. $28)
2003 Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Kabinett, Emrich-Schönleber, Nahe ($8, orig. $16)
2002 Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Spätlese, Schloss Saarstein, M-S-R ($17, orig. $25)
2001 Pfaffenberger (Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese), Schloss Schönborn, Rheingau
[Top-of-the-line wine gets its own name]
($20, orig. $28)
2000 Dürkheimer Nonnengarten Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese, Kurt Darting, Pfalz
[How often does one find a discounted Trockenbeerenauslese?]
($30, orig. $60)
500 ml
2007 Bechtoldsheimer Petersberg Gewürztraminer Spätlese, Weingut Ernst Bretz, Rheinhessen ($11, orig. $6)


Reds:
2006 Main Divide Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
[Second label for Pegasus Bay]
($14, orig. $21)
2006 Delta Vineyard Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
[A new name - let's try it]
($17, orig. $25)
2004 Isabel Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
[Apparently had a great reputation before 2005]
($20, orig. $30)
2004 Vavasour Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand ($17, orig. $23)
2005 Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Noir, The Lumpkin Family, Yamhill Carlton District, Oregon
[Another new name - let's try it]
($16, orig. $23)
2005 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($32, orig. $45)
2006 Dutton Estate Pinot Noir, Karmen Isabella, Russian River Valley ($29, orig. $40)
2005 Pinot Noir Reserva, Luigi Bosca, Maipu-Mendoza, Argentina ($16, orig. $23)
2000 Lamezia Riserva, Cantine Lento, Italy ($13, orig. $26)
2006 Morgon, Jean Descombes, Georges Duboeuf, Frnace ($11, orig. $??)
2007 Niersteiner Findling Pinot Meunier trocken - Weissherbst, Weingut Franz Karl Schmitt, Rheinhessen
[A rosé, vinified dry]
($8, orig. $12)
2007 Tavel, "La Dame Rousse", Domaine de la Mordorée, France
[As a rosé it's pricy, but the 2006 was extremely good]
($19, orig. $30)



Last updated 6/3/09

Top
Home
Wine Diary: Main