Thanksgiving dinner wines:2003 H Wines Pinot Noir, Hamacher Wines, Willamette Valley, Oregon2000 Rodney Strong Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, CaliforniaButtery on first opening, with clove character; lush fruit with good acidity and a touch of tannin for firmness. Forward and very enjoyable, with dark red color and fairly long taste. Price not known, probably about $20.2003 St. Innocent Pinot Noir, Freedom Hill Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Rating: Very GoodDeep and dense, dark purplish red color, intense fruit with tannin and noticeable wood. Long taste. Needs time to come together; will develop greater balance and complexity than it has now. Price not known, probably about $35.1998 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico, Italy
Rating: Very Good +Still somewhat hard, with sour-cherry fruit imprisoned by tannin and wood. High acidity, good intensity and moderate length, but without complexity. It might go better with meals other than Thanksgiving turkey and some sweetish side dishes. Price not known.2003 Thomas Fogarty Gewürztraminer, Monterey
Rating: Good -Certainly the best U.S. gewürztraminer that I've tasted, and better than many Alsatians. Solid varietal bouquet and taste with some depth. Dry, with good intensity and length, as well as sufficient acidity. It has none of the bitterness that troubles some other gewürztraminers. Price not known.2003 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling feinherb, Weingut Toni Jost, Hahnenhof, Mittelrhein
Rating: Very Good +Close to halb-trocken (feinherb) with nice riesling character; moderate intensity and length, well-balanced. Price $19.2004 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, sur Lie, Domaine de la Pepière, France
Rating: Good +Bought not for itself, but as an acidic base for pre-dinner kir (the traditional aligoté is hard to find and now often vinified as a more serious, and more expensive, wine). This muscadet is flavorful enough in its own right, with the requisite acidity and dryness in a medium light body, but with enough intensity and length to enjoy. Price $9.60.The wines accompanied the by-now traditional menu of roast brined turkey, stuffing, poblano and corn tamale, Brussel sprouts with lightly spiced pecans, mashed sweet potatoes with maple syrup and orange juice, and a salad of broccoli, sliced grapes, scallions, bacon and special dressing.
Rating: Good +
Other wines at other meals:
2003 Witness Tree Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, OregonLots of warm deep red fruit, wood and tannin in balance, complex taste; maybe just a trace of sweetness that detracts slightly. Depth and long taste. Price $22 (at Binny's in Chicago).2004 Mud House Pinot Noir, Marlborough Vineyard Selection, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Very Good -High acidity overwhelms the fruit, relatively light color, some varietal character in aroma and taste, no noticeable tannin or wood. Moderate intensity and length. Price $20 (at Binny's in Chicago).
Rating: Good
Moderate fruit with tannin and wood in balance, subdued bouquet. Also moderate intensity and length. Original price probably between $15 and $20.2002 Pinot Bianco, "Haberlehof", Alois Lageder, Alto Adige
Rating: Good ++
Tending toward full-bodied, with a touch of oiliness. Lots of extract, with perhaps just a trace of bitterness, an moderate acidity. Fairly long taste. Close-out price $14, original price $19.2005 Matua Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Good ++
Very dry, lots of grassiness and bracing acidity accompany solid intensity and good length. It's compares well to a 2003 The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, open at the same time, although the Matua, being young, is a bit more raw at this point. It's very likely to soften and to acquire some balance and depth with time. A great buy at a regular price of $12, less 20% discount.2001 Koberner Weisenberg Riesling Spätlese, von Schleinitz, M-S-R
Rating: Very Good -
Tasted at the same time as a 2002 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese, Schloss Schönborn, Rheingau (just below). It's just a bit smaller in all dimensions but a fine example of why a Mosel Spätlese goes so well with roast fowl (Cornish hens, in this case), and a good deal for the price. Also tasted against a 2001 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Spätlese, Georg Albrecht Schneider, Rheinhessen, which shows a bit more depth and apricot fruit, but also less acidity and a noticeably shorter taste. Close-out price $10, original price $15.2002 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese, Schloss Schönborn, Rheingau
Rating: Good ++
Spätlese sweetness of ripe peaches and some honey, with the acidity to match. Good intensity, although a little more would be welcome, with a bit of spice, and a fairly long taste. Has good ageing potential for gaining some complexity. Close-out price $14, original price $19.2001 Argyle Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Rating: Very Good -
Relatively light color, subdued bouquet, some wood and a bit of tannin provide structure but the fruit is not quite up to it. Moderate intensity and length. The Wine Spectator gave this a 90 rating - what were they drinking, or thinking?!? Original price $19.2000 Morey Saint-Denis, Les Herbuottes, vin non filtré, Frédéric Magnien, France
Rating: Good
Good sour-cherry fruit with some extra acidity. Tannin and wood in balance. Some varietal bouqet. Moderate intensity and reasonably long taste. Altogether I expected a bit more depth and some complexity. Close-out price $24, original price $35.1998 Bonterra Syrah, Mendocino
Rating: Good +
Very like a Côtes-du-Rhone, with a good deal of dark red fruit of above-average intensity, and some astringency from tannin and wood. A little more acidity and longer taste would help this good solid wine. Close-out price $10, original price $15.2002 Oestricher Doosberg Riesling QbA, Spreitz, Rheingau
Rating: Good +
Open at the same time as two other rieslings, a 2000 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese, Schloss Schönborn, Rheingau and a 2002 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett, Reuscher-Haart, M-S-R. The Oestricher had more intensity and flavor than the Piesporter, which appeared a bit flat by comparison. A little surprisingly, it had just about the same level of sweetness as the Rüdesheimer Spätlese (upper end of Kabinett/lower end of Spätlese), and also a bit more depth. There's a touch of spice in the Oestricher, which predicts that it should be able to age well and acquire some depth and complexity. Close-out price $11, regular price 16.2003 Matua Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Good ++
Disappointing for a Matua SB: there seems to be a touch of residual sugar, which does not go well with SB grassiness, even when subdued as in this wine. The acidity is also lower than one would expect, giving the wine a bit of fatness. Original price $11, less 20% discount.2003 Frei Brothers Reserve Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Northern Sonoma
Rating: Good -
Compared to a 2000 Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir, Great Estates, Monterey County (tasted at the same time), the Frei Brothers is more subdued with not quite as much fruit, less bouquet, and some austerity. The color is fairly dark, and the taste is moderately long. It could acquire some depth with age. Regular price not known, probably in the low $20's.2004 Brancott Pinot Noir, Reserve, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Good +(+)
Compared to a 2000 Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir, Great Estates, Monterey County (tasted at the same time), the Brancott Reserve is very aromatic, lighter in color, and not as deep, but very flavorful with nice acidity and a bit of tannin. The taste is fairly long. Regular price not known, probably about $20.1998 Montevertine Riserva, Radda in Chianti, Italy
Rating: Very Good -
Lots of sour-cherry fruit, but also high tannin level, some wood and good acidity. The astringency and acidity go well with food, but one longs for some complexity that signals a marriage of the various elements. After seven years of age this wine doesn't extrapolate to developing depth and becoming balanced. Fairly long taste. Close-out price $18; original price $25.
Rating: Good +
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2003 Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc, Groenekloof, South Africa ($13, orig. $17) 2002 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese, Schloss Schönborn, Rheingau ($14, orig. $19)
Reds:
1998 Bonterra Syrah, Mendocino ($10, orig. $15)
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