1999 King Estate Pinot Noir, Pfeiffer Vineyards, Willamette Valley
All the components of a very good Oregon PN: some firmness, varietal aroma, well-integrated tannin and wood, moderate intensity and depth of cherry fruit, fairly long taste with some complexity. It was, however, just a bit subdued for a single-vineyard wine. Close-out price $30; regular price $58.Thankgiving - our by now traditional meal, and next-day left-overs. Wines from Sam's Wines and Spirits in Chicago:
Rating: Very Good -2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, Meulenhof, M-S-R2001 Kthma Réserve, Nemeion Estate, Nemea, Greece
Sweetness tending toward Spätlese, good acidity, nice depth and floral character, fairly long taste. Young, and will profit from some age for greater depth. Regular price $17.2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett, St. Urbans-Hof, M-S-R
Rating: Very Good
Milder and lighter than the above Erdener Treppchen. Kabinett-level sweetness, good acidity, some floral riesling character. Regular price $16.2007 Nautilus Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Good ++
Buttery character at first opening, very good acidity, lovely cherry flavors with good intensity, and a fairly long taste. Just a bit less rich than the Baileyana (just below), otherwise quiet similar. Regular price $23.2006 Baileyana Pinot Noir, Grand Firepeak Cuvée, Firepeak Vineyard, Edna Valley
Rating: Very Good
Good varietal character with some floral aroma; depth and intensity of cherry with a touch of raspberry; good acidity, some firmness but well-balanced with inobtrusive tannin and wood. Long taste. Regular price $28.2007 Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Very Good
Characteristic Marlborough SB: some grassines with good acidity, well-balanced without "sharp elbows"; good intensity with some depth and a farily long taste. Regular price $16.2006 Sanford Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills
Rating: Very Good
A lighter kind of PN, both in color and intensity; nice floral aroma; little noticeable tannin or wood; some firmness. Moderately long taste. A good wine overall, but nothing like the excellent 2000 Sanford Santa Barbara. Regular price $30.2007 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, sur Lie, Domaine de Beauregard, France
Rating: Good ++
Perfectly serviceable, with bright acidity, mild flavors, moderate length. Used as a base for kir Regular price $10.
Rating: Good +
Fairly dark red, with depth and some complexity, dry with firmness from inobtrusive tannin and wood, fairly long taste. It has a certain sftness to it that a bit more acidity would improve. Served appropriately with moussaka. Price unknown.2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Premier Cru, Jean Noël Gagnard, France
Rating: Good ++
Deep brownish-gold - this one is past its prime but still shows its pedigree. The initial aroma, from some oxidation, is woody, and then diminishes. There is good acidity in a dry package with mature fruit, some complexity, and a long taste. Close-out price $35; regular price $66.2005 Spice Route Sauvignon Blanc, Coastal Region, South Africa
Rating: Good ++
Minor league SB: dry, good acidity, some grassiness, cleanly made, but subdued flavors and intensity, as well as a short taste. Charmless. Close-out price $9; regular price $15.2003 J Pinot Noir, Nicole's Vineyard
Rating: Good
When we visited J in June 2004, the PNs that we tasted were quite good, especially some aged Nicole's Vineyards. This one is still fresh and vibrant, with deep cherry fruit, lovely aroma, and a long taste. There is good acidity, and oak and tannin are unintrusive. Close-out price $25; regular price $55.2004 Gewürztraminer, Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige, Italy
Rating: Very Good
Quite a good wine: Strong varietal musty-apple character, dry with a touch of austerity and without bitterness, better acidity than most G's though still lower than other varietals, medium intensity and good length. Close-out price $12; regular price $24.2001 Panzanello Chianti Classico Riserva, Italy
Rating: Good ++
Some firmness, good sour-cherry fruit with balancing acidity, some tannin and wood but no harshness, fairly long taste. Close-out price $20; regular price $40.2004 Odfjell Cabernet Sauvignon Orzada, Valle de Colchagua, Chile
Rating: Very Good -
Fleshy and flavorful, a touch of butterriness, noticeable oak presence provides some structure but not vanillin flavors, fairly long taste. Moderate acidity. Maybe some ageing would provide complexity - seems a bit rustic now. Close-out price $9; regular price $17.2006 Lockwood Pinot Noir, Block 7, Monterey
Rating: Good ++
Somewhat lighter than most, and lacking the floral charm that many lighter PNs have. Moderate intensity and a bit short. A touch vegetal to go with modest fruit. It did seem to improve on the second day, but I don't see this as a $20 wine. Close-out price $13; regular price $20.2004 Meursault, Bouchard Père & Fils, France
Rating: Good
Not quite as much as I expected, especially at the original price. There's good balance, also smoothness and a bit of elegance, but it's not worlds above the Petit Chablis just below. Moderate intensity with a fairly long taste. Close-out price $27; regular price $57.2005 Petit Chablis, Louis Michel & Fils, France
Rating: Good ++
A "little" version of Chablis it is: all the components such as flinty dryness, strong acidity, some varietal chardonnay, and a touch of wood, but at a somewhat subdued level. The taste is moderately long. Close-out price $15; regular price $30.2001 Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett, Karlsmühle, M-S-R
Rating: Good +
Not nearly as good as expected, given the year, vineyard and producer. A kind of pale version of what it should be: there's not much of the peach/pineapple flavors, no complexity, sufficient acidity, and not too long a taste. Sweetness level is at the lower end of Kabinett. Original price $16.
Rating: Good
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2005 Petit Chablis, Louis Michel & Fils, France ($15, orig. $30) 2004 Cantina Terlan Gewürztraminer, Alto Adige, Italy ($12, orig. $24) 2004 Cantina Terlan Pinot Bianco, Alto Adige, Italy ($12, orig. $24) 2007 St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Grigio, Südtirol - Alto Adige, Italy ($9, orig. $13) 2004 Graacher Himmelreich Rieling Auslese, Jh. Jos. Prüm, M-S-R ($25, orig. $50) 2005 Kumeu River Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($12, orig. $19) 2005 Rully 1er Cru, Les Cloux, Vincent Girardin, France ($15, orig. $24) NV J Cuvée 20 Brut, Russian River ($19, orig. $29)
Reds:
2006 Carneros Creek Pinot Noir, Reserve, Carneros ($13, orig. $19) 2006 Lockwood Creek Pinot Noir, Block 7, Monterey ($13, orig. $20) 2003 J Pinot Noir, Nicole's Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($25, orig. $55) 1999 King Estate Pinot Noir, Pfeiffer Vineyards, Willamette Valley ($30, orig. $58) 2005 Soter Pinot Noir, Mineral Springs, Yamhill-Carlton District ($23, orig. $37) 2006 Luigi Bosca Pinot Noir Reserva, Maipu, Mendoza, Argentina ($11, orig. $17) 2003 Voss Pinot Noir, Martinborough, New Zealand ($25, orig. $36) 1998 Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Italy ($40, orig. $85) 2004 Odfjell Cabernet Sauvignon, Orzada, Valle de Colchagua, Chile ($9, orig. $17)
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