2004 Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir, Waipara, New Zealand
Pegasus Bay is one of the best NZ pinot noirs, and this is a good example, with good dark-cherry fruit and a bit of firmness from mild tannins and some oak. Medium-bodied with some depth, with good pinot noir character, some perfume and a fairly long taste. It is likely to develop some more complexity with time. Close-out price $25, regular price $40.2003 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru, Clos des Guettes, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot, France
Rating: Very Good
Somewhat better than the Marsannay (see below), with just a bit more acidity and flavor, as well as a little more definition and structure. Still more toward a Californian than white burgundy style. Close-out price $21, regular price $35.2004 Meursault, Louis Jadot, France
Rating: Good ++
Good balance between fruit, acidity, and oak, with just a touch of austerity. Moderate intensity. However, the taste drops off more quickly than expected. Close-out price $12, regular price $20 (half-bottle).2003 Marsannay, Louis Jadot, France
Rating: Good ++
As expected from the very hot 2003, displays some fat and lower acidity than optimal for a white burgundy. Oak is in balance. Moderately long taste, with some richness. Probably pleasing to Californian palates (not really a compliment). Close-out price $15, regular price $28.2004 Barbera d'Alba Superiore, Cascina La Ghersa Camparó, Italy
Rating: Good +
Fairly dark red color, lots of sour-cherry fruit. High acidity, as expected from barbera, but also good fruit to go very well with food. Fairly long taste. Close-out price $9.50, regular price $19.2000 Châteauneuf du Pape, Vielles vignes, non filtré, Eric Texier, France
Rating: Good ++
Very dark color, full of dark red fruit with some firmness, mild tannin and oak. Some depth and a fairly long taste. Close-out price $20, regular price unknown.2004 Ascheri Nebbiolo d'Alba, Bricco S. Giacomo, Podere di Rivalta di la Morra - Verduno, Italy
Rating: Very Good -
Medium-bodied, good acidity, moderately deep red color. As befits nebbiolo, there's a little of the character of Barolo and Gattinara, but thankfully without the weight. Moderately long taste with a little complexity. Good food wine, with enough interest for sipping. Close-out price $11, regular price $15.2000 Cristom Pinot Noir, Louise Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Rating: Good ++
Deep dark red color. Lots of dark fruit, without the touch of sweetness that mars some California PNs, and with some firmness and backbone to give it structure. There is depth and some complexity, a touch of tannin and well-balanced oak. It's not as seductively perfumed as some lighter PNs, but there's depth and some complexity, a touch of tannin and well-balanced oak. The taste is long. Close-out price $30, regular price $42.2005 Jardin Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Rating: Very Good +
Could be taken for a NZ SB, with some grassiness and good acidity. Good intensity and length. It does justice to the reputation of Stellenbosch as a region for good SB. Close-out price $9, regular price $13.2005 Sancerre "Le Chene", Lucien Crochet, France
Rating: Good ++
Medium-bodied with some depth and intensity, very good acidity, and a long taste. Superb balance with varietal character, but no New Zealand grassiness. Definitely a better wine than the 2004 version. Restaurant price $65 at Harvest in Canbridge.2003 Dão, Vinho tinto, Casa de Santar, Portugal
Rating: Very Good +
Having noted how good the Casa de Santar Reservas are (see 2003 and 2001), and that they need time to develop, I guessed that the regular Dão would be ready and quite a good wine. And so it was. Bright cherry fruit with depth and intensity, medium-bodied, with a bit of tannin and wood, and lively acidity makes this a very good wine with food and also to sip. The taste is fairly long, with some complexity. An astounding bargain at a close-out price of $5, or the regular price of $8.2001 Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon, Unfined and unfiltered, Sonoma County
Rating: Good ++
Deep dark color, grainy soft tannins, lots of dark fruit with a touch of cigar box and clove. Some complexity and moderately long taste; basically, it could use a little more acidity to freshen and lengthen the taste. Close-out price $5, regular price $8.2001 Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva, Italy
Rating: Good ++
Good amount of cherry fruit, but not enough acidity to overcome a certain dullness that feels like a better wine is sleeping. Not much in the way of complexity, some wood, firm tannin; only a moderately long taste. Will not improve with age. Close-out price $14, regular price $20.2005 Fontanelle Barbera d'Alba, Podere di Rivalta di la Morra - Verduno, Ascheri, Italy
Rating: Good +
Prototypical barbera: lots of sour-cherry fruit with emphasis on sour. Just enough wood to complement the fruit. Deep carmine color, fairly long taste. Definitely a very good food wine, but a little monotonic for sipping. Close-out price $11, regular price $15.
Rating: Good +
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2005 Jardin Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa ($9, orig. $13) 2005 Botrytis Semillon, Peter Lehmann, Barossa, Australia ($9, orig. $12)
[Half-bottle]2003 Marsannay, Louis Jadot, France ($15, orig. $28) 2003 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Clos des Guettes, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot, France ($21, orig. $35) 2004 Meursault, Louis Jadot, France ($12, orig. $20)
[Half-bottle]2002 Saint-Romain, Louis Jadot, France ($16, orig. $28) 2004 Santenay, Clos de Malte, Louis Jadot, France ($29, orig. $42) 2004 Rutherford Grove Sauvignon Blanc, Pestoni Estate, Rutherford, Napa Valley ($9, orig. $13) 2003 Chalone Vineyards Pinot Blanc, Estate grown, Chalone ($16, orig. $27)
Reds:
1999 Châteauneuf du Pape, Vielles vignes, non filtré, Eric Texier, France ($20, orig. $??) 2004 Barbera d'Alba Superiore, Cascina La Ghersa Camparó, Italy ($9.50, orig. $19) 2005 Fontanelle Barbera d'Alba, Podere di Rivalta di la Morra - Verduno, Ascheri, Italy ($11, orig. $15) 2004 Nebbiolo d'Alba, Bricco S. Giacomo, Podere di Rivalta di la Morra - Verduno, Ascheri, Italy ($11, orig. $15) 2003 Casa de Santar Dão Reserva, Portugal ($9, orig. $12) 2003 Casa de Santar Dão, Vinho tinto, Portugal ($5, orig. $8) 2004 Carneros Creek Pinot Noir, Reserve, Carneros ($17, orig. $24) 2004 Kenneth Volk Vineyards Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County ($21, orig. $29)
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