2004 Juliénas, Domaine du Clos du Fief, Michel Tete, France
Has held up well and is not fading. Rather than Beaujolais strawberry jamminess, there's some firmness and real character and here. Moderate intensity, with good fruit and length. Has some resemblance to a medium-bodied pinot noir. Close-out price $11; regular price $19.2001 Santenay En Biveau, Domaine Saint-Martin, France
Rating: Very Good -
In appearance, similar to the 2000 (below), also with a deep golden color and brownish tinge, but the year makes a difference. There's more depth, intensity and length, and it's not yet a bit dried out like the 2000. The acidity, fruit and wood around a basic dryness makes for very good sipping. Not to keep any longer, but to enjoy now. A great deal in white burgundy at a close-out price $13; regular price $27.2000 Santenay En Biveau, Domaine Saint-Martin, France
Rating: Very Good -
Deep golden color with a brownish tinge, testifying to being somewhat past its best age. Still, it has good white-burgundy character: dry, with good acidity and fruit and some firmness from oak. A little subdued, with moderate intensity, but good length. A bit maderized, but still good to drink but probably better about two years ago. Close-out price $11; regular price $24.2005 Cristina Ascheri Arneis, Langhe, Italy
Rating: Good ++
Superbly balanced with very good acidity, medium-bodied with intensity and depth, long taste. I thought of a white burgundy when first tasting this. Worth the regular price, and a great close-out bargain. Close-out price $8; regular price $16.2003 Abbazia Santa Anastasia Passomaggio, Sicilia, Italy
Rating: Very Good
Lots of fruit, but overall softness and low acidity throws a blanket over the taste, shortening it considerably. There's some tannin as well, but it'll never come together by ageing. This reminds one of California wines some decades ago which tasted flat because the acidity was so low. Close-out price $15; regular price $19.2003 Torres Fransola Sauvignon Blanc, Penedès, Spain
Rating: Good -
May be a bit over the hill with possibly some oxidation: dry, with moderate acidity and probably a touch of oak, all of which makes an older wine less appealing and lack charm. Became more palatable by mixing with a younger, fresher SB. Close-out price $10; regular price $20.2008 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Fair
Usually reliable and a very good deal, the 2008 is surprisingly smaller-scale than other years. It's dry, with good acidity and some grassiness, but it's relatively light, and with none too long a taste. There are better NZ SBs out there. Sale price $11.2004 Meursault, Thierry et Pascale Matrot, France
Rating: Good +
Bright acidity, some vanillin oak and good chardonnay fruit. More intensity that the Meursault below, but a bit more angular, and having a moderately long taste. Golden color. Tastes like it will last easily for another few years. Close-out price $25; regular price $40.2004 Meursault-Perrières Premier Cru, Domaine Latour-Giraud, France
Rating: Very Good -
An elegant wine in typical French style with everything in superb balance, no sharp edges. Moderate intensity, with complexity and a very long taste. Golden color. Not a powerhouse - one has to pay attention to it but is well-rewarded. Close-out price $38; regular price $76.2004 Dolcetto d'Alba, Vigna Scot, Cavallotto, Italy
Rating: Very Good +
A fine example of the type, from a special vineyard: lots of blueberry/blackberry, with firmness from some wood and tannin, and sufficient acidity. Very good intensity and a long taste. This one will still develop over a number of years. Great deal at either price: Close-out price $10; regular price $15.2000 Châteauneuf du Pape, Les Sinards, Perrin & Fils, France
Rating: Very Good -
Firmness from tannin and wood surrounds dark fruit, with a note of tarriness. Dark red color not quite as deep as one might expect. Moderate intensity with a long taste that is very likely to develop some complexity with age. Close-out price $26; regular price $38.2002 Cape Mentelle Shiraz, Margaret River, Western Australia
Rating: Very Good -
Hard to believe the regular price for the quality offered: full-flavored plum with clove accent, gentle tannins and some wood, long complex taste. Very dark color. As good as it was, improved over a day. Close-out price $9; regular price $15.2005 Rully 1er Cru "Les Cloux", Vincent Girardin, France
Rating: Very Good
Well-balanced with some elegance, and a moderately long taste. A bit soft. Light golden color. Medium-bodied. Close-out price $19; regular price $28.2006 Mâcon-Villages, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Perraud, France
Rating: Good ++
Well put together: golden color, good chardonnay fruit flavors, light on wood, good intensity, moderate acidity, moderately long taste. Right in the middle of French and California style. Sale price $13.
Rating: Good +
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2006 Mâcon-Villages, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Perraud, France ($13, orig. $??) 2005 Rully 1er Cru, Les Cloux, Vincent Girardin, France ($19, orig. $28) 2004 Meursault, Thierry et Pascale Matrot, France ($25, orig. $40) 2004 Meursault, Bouchard Père et Fils, France ($27, orig. $57) 2004 Meursault, "Le Limozin", Domaine René Monnier, France ($29, orig. $50) 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot Premier Cru, France ($35, orig. $66) 2000 Santenay, En Biveau, Domaine Saint-Martin, France ($11, orig. $24) 2001 Santenay, En Biveau, Domaine Saint-Martin, France ($13, orig. $27) 2005 Spice Route Sauvignon Blanc, Coastal Region, South Africa ($9, orig. $15) 2003 Torres Fransola Sauvignon Blanc, Penedès, Spain ($10, orig. $20) 2004 Cala Silente Vermentino di Sardegna, Santadi, Sardegna, Italy ($10, orig. $18) 2005 Cristina Ascheri Arneis, Langhe, Italy ($8, orig. $16)
Reds:
2004 Hazyblur Shiraz, Baroota, Australia ($19, orig. $40) 2002 Cape Mentelle Shiraz, Margaret River, Western Australia ($9, orig. $15) 2001 Mitchelton Crescent, Central Victoria, Australia ($8, orig. $??) 2004 Casa Lapostolle Syrah, Las Kuras Vineyard, Cuvée Alexandre, Requinoa, Cachapoal Valley, Chile ($16, orig. $24) 2006 Paraiso Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands ($11, orig. $23) 2004 Juliénas, Domaine du Clos du Fief, Michel Tete, France ($11, orig. $19) 2003 Abbazia Santa Anastasia Passomaggio, Sicilia, Italy ($15, orig. $19)
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