2003 La Bête Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Far more than a trace of residual sugar spoils the taste. The aroma is more jammy than perfumed, and the varietal character of the flavor is also overlaid by raspberry preserves. Good intensity and length do not help. Served with a robust pot roast. Close-out price $16; the regular price of $32 is way too steep.2008 Canyon Road Sauvignon Blanc, California
Rating: Good -
The 2005 version was surprisingly good, so I had some hopes for this one. Unfortunately, the very high acidity is not matched by the fruit - the flavors are small-scale although recognizably sauvignon blanc. The freshness has a trace of acetone to it. This is best blended with a wine that needs some acidity. Close-out price $6; regular price $9.2005 Grüner Veltliner, Glatzer, Carnuntum, Austria
Rating: Good -
Undistinguished. tasting more like a generic white. Moderate intensity and length, sufficient acidity, with just a trace of fatness. Close-out price $10; far too high a regular price of $20.2004 Cambria Julia's Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley
Rating: Good
All the characteristics of a good California pinot noir: fragrant, with good acidity and just a touch of firmness, dry, with a fairly log taste. Goes superbly with any chicken dish, complementing rather than overpowering. A food wine that's a pleasure to sip. Even better, this wine has been reliably consistent over a number of years. When bought, regular price $17, less 20% discount.1998 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Collosorbo, Italy
Rating: Very Good
At this price and with the reputation of a Brunello, not what I expected. This tastes like a very good chianti classico reserva, with lots of cherry fruit, good acidity, still a fair amount of tannin, and a fairly long taste. However, it doesn't have the complexity that I would think this wine should have. Since it's already eleven years old, I don't think that extra age will help. Special sale price $40; regular price $85.2006 Malbec Reserva, Altos Las Hormigas, Mendoza, Argentina
Rating: Good ++
Impenetrably dark color with purplish edges. Intense blackberry/blueberry flavors with substantial tannin. Somewhat low acidity. Fairly long taste. Only for strongly flavored meals. A sledgehammer, fruit-bomb kind of wine. Close-out price $15; regular price $23.2005 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Kabinett, Carl Loewen, M-S-R
Rating: Good ++
Characteristic riesling, with varietal aroma and flavors, as well as good acidity and Kabinett-level sweetness. The taste is just a bit short and not quite as intense as one might look for. Still, very enjoyable to sip and drink. Close-out price $11; regular price $22.2006 Grgich Hills Chardonnay, Estate grown, Napa Valley
Rating: Good ++
A California chardonnay in the French style - the back label says that it did not undergo malolactic fermentation to preserve acidity and fruit; I wish more chardonnay wine labels would say that. It's still a bit more full than most white burgundies, more in the Meursault style. It does have lots of flavor indeed balanced by good acidity and the right amount of oak, and has a lingering taste with the complexity that asks for sipping. Close-out price $30; regular price $45.2007 Condes de Albarei Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain
Rating: Very Good
The golden color with a tinge of brown testifies to perhaps some oxidation, although the wine doesn't seem that old. There's some softness that takes away from any charm that it might have. The acidity is moderate, as is the intensity and taste. This may need to be drunk very young to be at its best. Close-out price $10; regular price $15.2008 Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc, Te Muna Road Vineyard, Martinborough, New Zealand
Rating: Good
When we visited Craggy Range on our trip to New Zealand, they seemed somewhat too full of themselves. The wines did not impress at the time, but the pricing did. Their prices are indeed still high, but I had not sampled any of their wares recently.2006 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
With the sauvignon blanc on sale, accompanied by a high ratings number, it was time to try them again. This SB is very well balanced with a bit of the New Zealand grassiness, very good acidity, good intensity with lots of flavor, and a lingering taste. Its dryness is signaled by an austerity that probably makes this a better food than sipping wine. Note also that this wine comes from Martinborough on the north island rather than the usual Marlborough. Sale price $17; regular price unknown.
Rating: Very Good -
A good reliable pinot noir, with varietal aroma and taste. Seems on the somewhat lighter aromatic side, yet is fairly dark in color. There is some tannin and wood to give it firmness without austerity. The only real negative is that the taste falls off more quickly than expected. Close-out price $17; regular price $26.2007 Rosso Piceno, Saladini Pilastri, Italy
Rating: Good ++
Firm and tannic, with dark fruit. May develop over time to soften and gain some depth. Good intensity with moderate length. Close-out price $9; regular price $13.2005 San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva, "Il Grigio da San Felice", Italy
Rating: Good +
A textbook chianti with perhaps a touch more softness than most. Cheery fruit with some acidity, mild tannins, and a moderately long taste. Close-out price $15; regular price $23.2001 Mitchelton Crescent, Central Victoria, Australia
Rating: Good ++
A blend of 40% shiraz, 30% mourvèdre and 30% grenache. Good Rhone-style flavors with some depth and good length. Close-out price $8; regular price unknown.2005 The Four Graces Pinot Blanc, Dundee Hills, Oregon
Rating: Good ++
I usually look forward to a pinot blanc, expecting some of the body of a chardonnay but without the oakiness and with a bit more acidity. This is the oddest pinot blanc I've ever tasted: the acidity is none too high, and there's an off-putting sweetness to it, with even a bit of gewürztraminer flavor. Medium-bodied with a touch of fatness and a moderately long taste. I blended a part of it with a Russian River sauvignon blanc, and another part with a German riesling to make a more palatable wine. Close-out price $14; regular price $20.2005 Niersteiner Brückchen Riesling Kabinett, J.&H.A. Strub, Rheinhessen
Rating: Good -
Spätlese sweetness with acidity a bit low; nice riesling character in aroma and taste, floral with good intensity and some depth, moderately long taste. Close-out price $13; regular price $20.2002 Riesling Gaisberg, Zöbing/Kamptal September, Hirsch, Kamptal, Austria
Rating: Good ++
I'm beginning to appreciate Austrian rieslings more and more, and Hirsch in particular. Like others, this one is dry without losing any riesling character or intensity - there's the floral aroma but no need for German-style sweetness. Very good intensity and a fairly long taste. The 2004 Hirsch Zöbing Riesling is just a bit more crisp, but that may be a function of age, although both are nowhere near the end of their life. Close-out price $15; regular price $35.2005 Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese, Toni Jost (Hahnenhof), Rheingau
Rating: Very Good -
The German wine labels are getting more peculiarly inventive, making it difficult for the knowledgeable consumer. This one features a brightly colorful rooster with the word Riesling on the front label - that reflects the producer's Hahnenhof estate (Hahn = rooster). You have to look on the back label to see the particulars of the wine as "Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese" in small print.2003 Sweeney Pinot Noir, Estate, Willamette Valley, Oregon
That being said, this one is not quite as good as I expect from Toni Jost. There is Spätlese sweetness, not excessive, but perhaps a bit less acidity than needed for balance. There's riesling character, moderate intensity and length, but also a kind of lack of focus. Close-out price $14; regular price $24.
Rating: Good ++
Fairly hard without too much charm, there's some fruit and some tannin but it's buried in far too much oak. The wine is already at the six-year mark, and I don't think there's enough fruit to balance the oak over time. Close-out price $25; regular price $50.2004 Savannah-Chanelle Pinot Noir, Armagh Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Rating: Good +
The Savannah-Chanelle pinot noir (just below) being highly fruit-driven with not that much structure, I combined the two to get more than the sum of the parts. There is still lots of oak to give structure, but now some more fruit to balance it.
Rating: Very Good -
Full-flavored and dark-colored, this is a very fruit-forward style, more blackberry than black raspberry. With that much fruit, any tannin and wood are well-subdued. The taste is intense and fairly long. Acidity is moderate and there is perhaps just a trace of residual sugar in the mellow character. Close-out price $22; regular price $44.2004 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers, Climat "Les Quarts", France
Rating: Good ++
The "climat" version is significantly better than the plain in this case: well-focused with vibrant acidity, good fruit and balancing oak; medium-bodied with a farily long, complex taste. A fine white burgundy from a fine producer. Close-out price $35; regular price $53.2003 Montinore Pinot Noir, Parson's Ridge, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Rating: Very Good +
A fine pinot noir in the best California style: perfumed aroma, medium-bodied with raspberry fruit, moderate intensity and a lingering taste with some complexity. Good acidity, with just the right amount of oak and tannin for structure and balance. Close-out price $26; regular price $37.2003 Mueller Pinot Noir, Emily's Cuvée, Russian River Valley
Rating: Very Good +
Given rave ratings of 92 and 96 from a major wine mag, I expected an eye-opening "wow" from this wine. Not so. It tasted unfocused, without much structure and backbone, perhaps a touch of residual sugar, and moderate acidity. Some floral character in the aroma, but not the taste. Fairly dark, with good intensity and a fairly long taste. The lesson - beware of ratings! Close-out price $34; regular price $50.2004 Zöbing Riesling, Hirsch, Kamptal, Austria
Rating: Good ++
A fine riesling that's dry but not austere, with lots of varietal character in aroma and taste, with depth and intensity, and a long taste. Has the requisite acidity. The five years of age have done no harm - it will easily last longer. Close-out price $14; regular price $25.
Rating: Very Good +
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2005 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Kabinett, Carl Loewen, M-S-R ($11, orig. $22) 2005 Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese, Toni Jost, Hahnenhof, Rheingau ($14, orig. $24) 2002 Hirsch Riesling Gaisberg, Zöbing / Kamptal September, Austria ($15, orig. $35) 2005 The Four Graces Pinot Blanc, Dundee Hills, Oregon ($14, orig. $20) 2007 Albariño, Condes de Albarei, Rias Baixas, Spain ($11, orig. $15) 2008 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($14, orig. $20) 2008 Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc, Te Muna Road Vineyard, Martinborough, New Zealand ($18, orig. ???) 2008 Canyon Road Sauvignon Blanc, California ($6, orig. $9) 2006 Grgich Hills Chardonnay, Estate grown, Napa Valley ($30, orig. $45) 2004 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru, Kessler, Dirler, Alsace, France ($19, orig. $38) 2007 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Clos des Briords, Cuvée vieilles vignes, sur lie, Loire, France ($11, orig. $16) 2005 Grüner Veltliner, Glatzer, Carnuntum, Austria ($10, orig. $20)
Reds:
2003 Sweeney Pinot Noir, Estate, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($25, orig. $50) 2006 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($26, orig. $37) 2006 Lange Pinot Noir, Reserve, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($25, orig. $32) 2006 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($17, orig. $26) 2007 Belle Glos Pinot Noir, Clark & Telephone Vineyards, Santa Maria Valley ($32, orig. $??) 2003 La Bête Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($16, orig. $32) 2006 Phantom, Bogle Vineyards, California ($15, orig. $22) 2007 Rosso Piceno, Saladini Pilastri, Italy ($9, orig. $13) 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva, Il Grigio di San Felice, San Felice, Italy ($15, orig. $23) 2002 Rioja Riserva, Marqués de Cáceres, Spain ($20, orig. $27)
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