2006 Ascheri Dolcetto d'Alba, Nirane, Podere di Rivalta di la Morra - Verduno, Italy
Very flavorful with a blueberry character, quite dark color, some softness but with structure from some tannin and a bit of almond from wood. Fairly long taste. Very pleasant to sip and with food, and may gain some complexity with age. A very good buy. Close-out price $10; regular price $15.2005 Saintsbury Pinot Noir, Carneros
Rating: Good ++
In the California aromatic style: perfumed aroma, a bit lighter in color and body than most, nicely balanced between raspberry fruit and acidity, with light wood and tannins. The taste is moderately long, but also a bit hollow, losing some of its charm toward the end of the bottle. Close-out price $22; regular price $35.Alsatian wine tasting: Legal Sea Foods offered a flight of three Alsation wines, 2 oz. each for $9.50, always a great way to learn more. The three are described below:
Rating: Good ++2005 Riesling Andlau, Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace, France2006 Pinot Grigio, Plozner, Friuli, Italy
A very fine example of what can be done with riesling in a dry style: light golden color, perfect acidity, an intensity that builds rapidly, and a long taste to savor. Dry but not austere, this may be the best non-German riesling that I've tasted. Store price $22-$27.2005/06 Gewurztraminer Réserve, Hugel, Alsace, France
Rating: Very Good +
The third Alsation gewürztraminer this month, and holding to the same pattern: good varietal character of musty apple (not a negative) and low acidity. This one will please fans of the grape who will rate it more highly than I do, but the lack of acidity matters a great deal to me. Light golden color, and a long, clean taste. It may be just a touch off-dry, or that may be the natural fruitiness. The year (2005/06) is as indicated on the wine list.2006 Pinot Blanc "Cuvée Balthazar" Réserve, Lucien Albrecht, Alsace, France
Rating: Good ++
Good varietal character, moderate acidity, good length. There's some softness rather than a crisp edge that makes for very pleasant sipping. Clean and well-balanced. Store price $12-$15.
Rating: Good ++
A different style from the St. Michael-Eppan (just below), a different year and region too; this is crisp and refreshing, but also has some depth and good length. Close-out price $10; regular price $16.2004 Pinot Grigio Anger, St. Michael-Eppan, Südtirol - Alto Adige, Italy
Rating: Good ++
A pinot grigio with some weight and substance, from an individual vineyard. Very well-balanced, golden color, good acidity as well as a bit of softness, and with a long taste, it reminds one of a good pinot blanc. Close-out price $14; regular price $20.2005 Gewurztraminer Réserve, Lucien Albrecht, Alsace, France
Rating: Good ++
Live and learn - just when I thought all Alsatian wines (except "vendange tardive") were dry, along comes this one. Nice gewürz character in taste and aroma, medium-bodied, very smooth, and with a long taste. The sweetness reminds one of a German Kabinett, but without the refreshing acidity - that's just how gewürz is. Probably best as an aperatif or with foods that have a touch of sweetness. Close-out price $13; regular price $19.2006 King Estate Pinot Noir, Oregon
Rating: Good +
Additional note: "Gewürz" means "spice" in German, with the umlaut, which is often ignored in the varietal name in wines from other countries. Note also that there is no "t" before the "z" even though it sounds that way.
Lots of lush blackberry fruit; smooth with a softness that belies its Oregon heritage and a firmness or backbone one would expect. Any wood or tannin are well-integrated. I would be hard-pressed to identify this as pinot noir, although there is a hint in the aroma. Close-out price $20; regular price $30.2005 Elk Cove Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Rating: Good + (as pinot noir); Good ++ (otherwise)
Seemingly light at first, it picked up character and some depth in the glass. There's some clove, tannin and wood to argue for further development over some years. Nice pinot aroma too. Close-out price $10; regular price $16 (Half-bottle).2001 Gewurztraminer Réserve, René Schmidt, Alsace, France
Rating: Good ++
Golden color; good musty-apple varietal character. Dry Alsation style, with low acidity characteristic of the grape. Moderate intensity, with the flavor falling off quickly. Good, but not showing any charm. Close-out price $9; regular price $13.2000 Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico Riserva, Italy
Rating: Good
Lots of cherry/sour cherry fruit, with well-integrated acidity, tannin and wood. Very smooth and flavorful, with a long taste. Close-out price $19; regular price $27.2000 Talley Vineyards Pinot Noir, Rincon Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley
Rating: Very Good
Lots of warm black raspberry/cherry fruit, good acidity, wood and tannin perfectly integrated by age for a smooth, intense and long taste with some complexity. Not at the end of its life - may improve yet more with further age. Close-out price $22; regular price $32.2002 Etude Pinot Noir, Carneros
Rating: Very, Very Good
Some clove spiciness in the aroma. Tannin and wood give structure to dark fruit. The taste is long and intense. Even in the half-bottle, this wine should age for a number of further years. Close-out price $14; regular price $21 (half-bottle).2006 Tablas Creek Vineyards Côtes de Tablas Blanc, Paso Robles
Rating: Very Good +
A Perrin enterprise in California to produce a Rhône-style wine, with 59% Viognier, 32% Marsanne, 6% Grenache Blanc, and 3% Roussanne. Largely successful, a serious wine with some body, dry, moderate acidity, less perfume than I expected from the viognier, and a fairly long taste. Close-out price $15; regular price $22.2005 Goldwater Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Good ++
Note added 4/22/09: The description above holds for the most part, but there's a tinge of bitterness that detracts some.
Good standard NZ SB, some grassiness, good acidity, dry, moderate intensity and length. Close-out price $11; regular price $17.2000 Château +Les+Trois+Croix, Fronsac, France
Rating: Good ++
Quite a good wine that's neither thin and acidic nor overly heavy. Very dark purplish color with lots of blackberry/blueberry fruit, and structure from tannin and wood which should have it develop over some years yet. There's good balancing acidity too. Lots of intensity and a fairly long taste. More toward the rustic than elegant side. Close-out price $20; regular price $30.2003 Boony Doon Le Cigare Volante, Calfornia
Rating: Very Good -
The leader of California's Rhone Rangers, with his signature humor, has put together a very good wine that is very much Rhone-like. There's a bit of perfume in the aroma, good acidity and a firm structure, with just the right level of dark berry fruit, and a fairly long taste. Close-out price $20; regular price $30.
Rating: Very Good -
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2005 Omaka Springs Estates Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($11, orig. $17) 2005 Goldwater Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($11, orig. $17) 2006 Tablas Creek Vineyards, Côtes de Tablas Blanc, Paso Robles ($15, orig. $22) 2004 Meursault-Perrières Premier Cru, Domaine Latour-Giraud, France ($38, orig. $76) 2001 René Schmidt Gewurztraminer, Réserve, Alsace, France ($9, orig. $13) 2005 Lucien Albrecht Gewurztraminer, Réserve, Alsace, France ($13, orig. $19) 2007 Cristina Ascheri Gavi, Piedmont, Italy ($10, orig. $15) 2006 Plozner Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy ($10, orig. $16) 2004 St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Grigio, Anger, Südtirol-Alto Adige, Italy ($14, orig. $20) 2004 Sancerre, Château de Mainbray, Georges Roblin et Fils, France ($7, orig. $???) 2006 Pouilly-Fumé, Les Rabichottes, Célestin Blondeau, France ($12, orig. $18) 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, Dr. Loosen, M-S-R ($22, orig. $32)
Reds:
2004 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Narbantos, Mongeard-Mugneret, France ($19, orig. $38) 2004 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva, Fabrizio Bianchi, Italy ($17, orig. $25) 2004 Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba, Vigna Scot, Italy ($10, orig. $15) 2006 Ascheri Dolcetto d'Alba, Nirane, Podere di Rivalta di la Morra - Verduno, Italy ($10, orig. $15) 2004 Montes Alpha Merlot, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley, Chile ($13, orig. $22) 2006 Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir, Waipara Valley, New Zealand ($30, orig. $40) 2002 Etude Pinot Noir, Carneros ($14, orig. $21)
[Half-bottle]2005 Saintsbury Pinot Noir, Carneros ($22, orig. $35) 2006 King Estate Pinot Noir, Oregon ($20, orig. $30) 2006 Elk Cove Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($21, orig. $31)
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