Camping
Camping - the affordable way to see the world. Personally, I consider a B&B
a gift from God, but I can't afford the luxury so I camp. Sure it's fun - the
warm toasty campfire, the fresh air in the mornings, the oneness and proximity
to nature. But there's those drawbacks - pit toilets, ticks, pit toilets with
no TP, moose, dirty pit toilets, freezing cold, sweltering heat, the smell of
pit toilets, poison ivy, bee stings, animals living in pit toilets...you get
the idea.
A lot of people use Backcountry camping as a means to be free of it all, and that works, but many, like myself, often come to rely on more formal measures as a way of being nominally unprepared. The proximity to my vehicle assures me that I'll never be without food or water (usually running, with an H on one of the faucets) and I like that! Unfortunately, that isn't always feasible, as the better facilities, the more crowds. It's ironic that bathroom facilities can be used as social control. But use this as a general rule - if the campground description says 'pit-toilets' you will be quite alone. Showers and bike rentals - welcome to hell.
So to avoid the endless supply of information about camping, campgrounds, and links, I'll do the top ten places to camp thing and what to do there and why. Note that many of these are formal campgrounds, complete with fees and kids and facilities (more or less). Some of them are less formal, and some of them break all the boundaries of the typical camping experience. Here goes:
1.) Recompence Shores, Freeport, ME.
This campground was a godsend when I was living in Boston. Friday night we'd hit the road for a few hours and land Coveside, the smell of saltwater air and the twinkle of cool white stars made us realize what life was all about. This campground is situated on Casco Bay, with some sites directly Bayside. Perfect launching ground for kayaks, you can practically launch from your tent if you are fortunate enough to get a water site - tides cooperating of course, Casco can get really muddy at low tide. There's also a 'launch' at the bridge before you reach the farm, as well as some defined hiking trails (i.e. strolls) for a fun diversion. It's location is perfect, though in bustling Freeport you'd never know it. Clammers frequent the mud at low tide, and Stripers are easily caught from the Coastline at certain secret locations. Recompence is situated on a Farmstead, now the Organic Wolfe's Neck Farm where some yummy natural meats and sausages can be purchased for your Campfire. The farm itself is a great diversion. A mile or so down the street is Wolfe's Neck State Park, where one can hike the mile + trail system or hang out on the rocks and gaze into Casco Bay. Overall a great place if you just want to be near the water. Remember to look for the Osprey nests!
Please don't go here to party, they maintain strict quiet hours and, well, it just wouldn't be a good place to party anyhow. Too many outdoor enthusiasts trying to rest up for the next day. And for those of you with significant others (girlfriends or wives) there's the horrific downtown Freeport shopping experience. Do as I do - drop 'em off and say 'see ay later!'
Enclosed Pit toilets, Fee Showers, small camp store, wood available
- oh - and Coffee in the mornings!
2). Isle au Haut, Acadia National Park, ME
Ok, I lied, this is no car camping excursion. But it's worth it. In summertime a ferry drops you off mere feet from the camping facilities (lean-to's) so I will include in my top ten. That's practically the Sheraton with Valet in the world of Camping. Be warned, reservations are essential and if you go in off season (the absolute best time to go in my opinion) there is no ferry - you hike a few miles in with all your gear and sweat, swear and moan. The difficult part of this excursion is getting the necessary reservations and permits to go. They keep it bogged with beaurocracy to keep the numbers down, a very good thing in my opinion. So then why is it listed here? Beauty. Solitude. Tranquility. A glimpse into what the Maine coast really is all about. Absolute incomprehensible beauty. Miles and miles of unspoiled rocky seaside. Hiking trails circle the entire island. There is no development to speak of except in the 'town' area which consists of a store and a dock and some locals who tough it out on the island. The island itself is part of Acadia National Park though many miles South of the Park itself. This place is a once in a lifetime event and not to be missed.
Limited facilities (nice new clean pit toilets), Bear Boxes attached to the lean to-s (bears??). Very little in the way of services though rangers appear time to time. Bring food! Overall it's pretty cozy...
Well, just when you thought Isle au Haut was the world's most perfect camping experience, I'll give you yet another. Monhegan. The word must mean sweetness in ancient Mainer-speak. Less rugged and more tranquil than Isle au Haut, it maintains a charm like no other place I have been to. Year-round population is very slim (75) but summertime brings a number of Artists on retreat and day trippers to this 600 acre retreat. The number of people allowed onto the island is controlled via ferry access - this keeps crowds and development at bay. The minuscule year round population consists primarily of working lobstermen, as most could not tolerate nor survive the harsh winter environment. There are a number of cute stores, mostly art galleries, and civilized establishments like coffee shops. Rental cottages and a few hotels skirt the main part of the island. You can't camp on Monhegan. It is forbidden.
OK, Mr. Seacoast New England, this is about camping, why on earth is Monhegan here then? Do you have no adherence to your own rules?
My answer is simply that staying on Monhegan is so similar to Camping that it can easily be confused (if you stay in the right spots) with being in a tent. Electricity in most spots is a luxury. You can, of course, cheat, and stay in one of the nicer hotel-like establishments for a ridiculous sum of money - but I don't suggest it. It will make you soft, luxury is for the weak. I suggest the following: the Trailing Yew. (207-596-0440) No heat and no electricity after dark makes you feel like you're camping (they do have running water - but you are only allowed to flush on occasion). They have a family-style meal included that is a lot of fun but ends up tasting a lot like campfire food, but hey, that's why it's here.
Now that the formalities have been taken care of , let's talk of the island herself. The only real way to see it is to hike the perimeter. Yes, it's a bit long but you can do it across a number of days. There are about 17 miles of hiking trails total, but many provide quick return from the perimeter trails - so hike until you're content, then head back to the Yew. These trails are awesome, skirting the rocky cliffsides in many places, strolling along the shore in others. Also take a walk through Cathedral Woods, aptly named due to the canopies of trees. Keep an eye out for Monhegan's little secret - gnomes that live in these Woods. Believe it or not there is some evidence of the little guys if you look hard enough. Have to see for yourself.
Be smart here, just because it looks serene doesn't mean it can't be dangerous. All the additional rules, regulations, and visitor info can be obtained at the following link.
My advice: Just stroll, pack a lunch and some wine, hike like nobility. Without the prospect of conquest (i.e. conquering a 4000 footer) you can relax and enjoy. Paint, or watch others paint. Stroll into one of the galleries. Have a chat with a lobsterman. Sit in an adirondack chair and gaze. Just go - and you'll never forget the experience!
#4) Baxter State Park, near Millinocket, Maine
all right folks, let's venture out of the Seacoast and head inland to one of the most secluded and perfect retreats in the Northeast - Baxter State Park. Hundreds of miles from pretty much anything, this is a preserved slice of the Great North Woods of Maine and meant to be kept 'forever wild' by it's donor (God Bless him) Percival Baxter. And wild it is. Moose outnumber people. Blackflies outnumber stars in the sky. You, my friend, can now feel what it is like to be a minority....
.
One road, limited number of human entries per day, and more rules than a rehab clinic (no audio devices allowed - including cell phones) this place is the real deal. Be sure to reserve a campsite months in advance (Maine residents get first dibs) or get in line at 4AM in back of all the others. After all, this park is home to the majestic Mt. Kathadin, one of the most desirable hikes in the East.
A view from the Kidney Pond camping area
Unlike most National Parks, Baxter is extremely difficult to see in a day, or by vehicle. The single bumpy dirt road posts a speed limit of 20 MPH and takes seemingly hours to travel end to end. I've done it, it's not worth it. Very little of interest is seen on this from the road. Our tyrannical friends at Baxter (notice the website - baxterauthority) have kept it this way on purpose to maintain its status as a true outdoor preserve. When compared to the traffic and general chaos of Acadia, where few people ever leave their cars, this place is well appreciated. Your trip to Baxter should be well planned out months in advance, and a camping area chosen based on your preferences. There are a few 'developed' camping areas and a large number of hike-to remote sites that consist of an outhouse and a fire ring. You decide which suits you best but I wholly recommend the hike in's. The benefit is that an entire lake can be yours and no person can be seen for days. The detriment being you could die here and no one may ever find you. That's good fun in my book.
Orient yourself via Baxter's official map.
As a result, your excursions are generally based on your location at Baxter, as parking lots are tiny and always full. In general, you stay where you're at, if you get there at all. A list of hiking trails can also be seen on the 'Baxter authority' website. Your hikes will be amazing, your camping divine. Kidney Pond is a perfect little camp but is always booked solid. Postmark your request the first day they begin taking reservations and hope the Mainers haven't been as diligent - they are deeded to get first crack.
So what's so great about Baxter then? Wilderness, unspoiled. Remember that this park was always free and wild. Logging occurred in parts but unlike out National parks it is no longer allowed. Animals are free to live in peace, Moose are everywhere. You realize this at night when the woods come alive with sounds of animals you never have heard nor care to meet. 'Holding it' all night is common at Baxter - you're just too afraid to step outside into the melee that is nocturnal life in the wilds of Maine. Sasquatch perhaps?
The glacial ponds are beautiful and crystal clear. They also teem with trout - some illustrious native Maine brookies. I spent the better part of a weekend trying to fish for these guys but to no avail. These are not tank fish that prefer fish feed to insects. You need to know your insects and match the hatch. They're native for a reason - they learned how to survive.
Overall, Baxter is tough, tough to reserve, tough to get to, and tough to conquer. But believe me, if you're into the Great forests, it's worth it. Bit of you're a bit of a Mary (i.e. wimp) stick to Freeport. There's no shopping or civilization for miles around. Remember to BYOB (whisky is best - it's light and warming) you may need it for those cold NorthWoods nights...
#5) The Whites.
The Whites are just awesome, no doubt about it. Where else can you see and do so much? You can wimp-camp from the car, luxuriate in a B&B, backcountry, rock-climb, ski, snowshoe, fish, and shop. All in one day! I won't even attempt to go into details at this point. I'd have to glue myself to the screen for days. My suggestion: Goto this site and reserve a number of weekends at different campgrounds. Get an AMC guide to the area at the Pinkham Notch visitor center and go nuts. All the campgrounds are good to excellent, crowded in Summer but still top-notch. If the crowds are a problem for you as they are for me, hit the Maine portion of the Whites (Maine portion? - yes, there is one). Take heed to the warnings up high on the mountains - these are dangerous places. People Die. But have fun in the Whites, if nothing else drive the Kankamangas and go home. But please conserve. This region receives millions of tourists and does a good job keeping itself alive. I love it here. If I catch you littering I'll toss you into a ravine. GORP also has a lot of great White Mountain info.
Umbagog Lake resides in the Great North Woods of New Hampshire and Maine and is a great example of the North Woods region - with some amenities like stores and people. It is developed enough for car camping in the civilized campgrounds and remote enough to venture out to one of the remote sites via canoe or kayak, or let the campground folks bring you there. Umbagog is big, creepy, dark, and strangely alluring and romantic - and teeming with fish. Be warned: Loon calls keep you up all night and moose are tame as dogs. Things are different up here, you'll either love it or hate it ( I love it). Rent a canoe (at the campground or in town) and spend a weekend in this region to decide for yourself. Fly fishing is great in the rivers that feed it - the Androscoggin in particular.
Close to Umbagog in the Great North Woods of New Hampshire, this campground is situated directly beside the mighty Androscoggin river. Once so heavily polluted continual stench followed the river banks (form Paper mills) the big A is now pleasantly clean and powerful She's a wide strong river teeming with fish and a major flyfishing destination these days. Mollidgewock is here because of a well kept secret - the 3 remote sites that are part of the campground. These sites are less than a mile off the road but accessible via dirt road - perfect for car camping. However, aside from the nearby road there is no development or other campers so you have total free reign to do whatever your fresh air induced, sunstroked mind desires: dance naked on your vehicle, skinny dip until your hearts content (but watch for those leeches - ooops!) Converse with the moose - decorate the outhouse! (These are just suggestions folks, not to be taken literally). But that is the great part - you're all alone but only a few miles way form stores and conveniences. So you get the best of both worlds - backwoods feel near civilization. If the backcountry sites are booked, Mollidgewock proper is still a nice place to stay as many of the sites directly overlook the Andro. Again, we have a North Country feel to the region, summed up in one word - creepy... If the White's are too much wilderness for you - don't come up here!
I once enjoyed a battle of wits between my dog and a moose. The dog politely screaming at the Moose that was peering into the mesh on my tent to buzz off, the moose impolitely continuing to stare at me and my gyrating dog. A thin piece of nylon separating me from moose. Now that's adventure!
#7) Even farther up North, Lake Francis State Park, Pittsburg, NH
Pittsburg is almost at the top, about as far as civilized man can go before hitting Canada. I love it up here. There isn't an awful lot to do up here besides enjoy the outdoors. Lake Francis is a small but pleasant lake with a nice campground that puts you conveniently in the region. There are a number of lakes and rivers, in Particular the Connecticut Lakes, that are known as premiere fishing destinations. Up here you either fish, hunt, or snowmobile. I prefer to fish. Trophy size Salmon and Brown trout in both the rivers and the streams. This is what it's all about.
There is not a lot of hiking to be done as the mountains have all but disappeared though I do suggest a hike on the Canadian/American border to 4th Connecticut lake. Park at the Border and inform the patrolman you're going for a hike. It's fun because you constantly cross back and forth into the US and Canada. I was far more amused than my girlfriend as I counted each time I jumped from country to country. The North woods air does something strange to my behavior.
4th Connecticut Lake
My favorite activity is to off road the old logging roads that go absolutely nowhere, but I just like the excuse to engage the 4*4 and feel like a man. I usually leave the girl at home on these ventures up North, just bring the dog to protect me from the moose and engage on fishing adventures.
8). Henderson Pond, near Millinocket ME
This one ought to break you from your standard ideals regarding camping! Picture this: Driving umpteen hours up North into the Great North Woods of Maine, the car being slowed by black fly collisions (literally). The car is packed to the rim as you are fully prepared for an outdoor camping adventure. As you pull into a parking lot on Millinocket lake you are then whisked onto your own private pontoon plane (yes a plane) and shakily flown miles from civilization to a scrappy old cabin on a lake - all to yourself. Which means no people, and no safety, and no rescue. Phone service? Right. Any injuries would yield a 7+ mile hike to the nearest road. Dying along here would be a breeze. Not to mention the Moose in rut season or hungry Bear. Sound too good to be true? (I'm sure I lost a number of the ladies at this point). It isn't. It's there, and surprisingly affordable. It's called Henderson Pond and it is managed by the Kathadin Air Service, the friendly folks that fly you in, drop you off, and leave you for dead....
So, you climb into this tiny little plane, complete with your luggage, your guest and your dog (yes you can bring the pooch) and embark for a world class adventure.
From the air you spot the oh-so-tiny Henderson Pond and wonder how-in-the hell can he land this thing on that tiny lake. Oh, and if this pilot dies, will he remember to tell anyone where he left you off?
But, all too surprisingly, the plane crashes down into the serene lake saved by the tiny metal pontoon floats. It's almost like the pilot has done this a few times before.
You look around in abashed amazement. This place is all ours. We will soon be alone. As we embark from our plane, the lovely lady in the image proceeds to be knocked off the plane by the dog, crashing into the water. I thought for sure this near injury was a glimpse into the future, a premonition of injuries to come - after the plane, and thus civilization, had left. Luckily I was wrong and it was her only klutz attack for the trip. Now onto the facilities.
Though the cabin didn't look like much it was actually charming in a rustic (very rustic) kind of way. It's actually more of a hunter's cabin, not designed for tourists but for drunken bury men with killing apparatus. It's equipped with a full stove, fridge, and freezer, so you can keep your food fresh (when you're not frying trout that is!). Note for the squeamish: there may or may not be mice and or other animals running about the cabin at night. This is to be expected. If you bring enough booze they will go away. Kathadin Air has no limitation to the amount of booze you may bring. Luggage, yes. But not booze. Don't look too closely now, it's better than it seems.
The best part about 'camping' at Henderson is the boat situation. Along with the modest fee for rental (less than a night at a Mariott) the cabin comes equipped with both a canoe and an aluminum outboard-equipped boat. If you can run a boat you're all set. If you can't I'd stick with the canoe. It gets windy at times and by looking at the motor I wouldn't guarantee 100% reliability. The canoe is perfect for flyfishing or viewing the Northern Lights late at night (a truly unbelievably experience - I thought the sky was falling). From the cabin the world is yours - two boats, plenty of sun, hiking (some nice hikes too) fishing, again the whole dancing naked-because-you're-all-alone thing (I too have photos - but these are on my subscriber site - NakedDirtyCampers.com - only 19.99 per month) and a few chipmunk friends that live under the cabin who will eat from your hand if you're lucky.
Overall, though not a true camping destination, this place is highly recommended for those who really like to get away from it all.
#9) Penebscot Bay - Stonington/Deer Isle, ME
Ideally, this place would be better explored by a B&B as a grounding point (I recommend this always when traveling DownEast Maine -it just makes the world so much happier) but finances dictate otherwise on occasion. There are a number of campgrounds in the region, my recommendation being Old Quarry where you can also take tours of the area. Anywhere in the Stonington/Deer Island area is beautiful, and there are a number of smaller fun hikes available on a local town sponsored hiking map. But the real draw here is the kayaking. Great sea kayaking in the Penebscot Bay being it guided tours or solo adventures. This region is a giant picture postcard. Stonington is chock full of cute stores and art galleries, and the town also boasts a thriving Lobstering industry so locals are as common as tourists. Had I money to retire, I'd look here.
Stonington, ME
And finally, #10) Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts.
I must direct you to my detailed travelogue of this harrowing experience.... it's on the Best of List due to memorability factor alone. And I wish you all similar experiences to remember!
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