"Bigger Roots Mean Bigger Plants!"™ |
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Table of Contents
Chapter 1. Whatever Happened to Good Ol Mother Earth?
Chapter 2. The Weed Free, Disease Free No Sweat Way to Garden
Chapter 3. Uses For Your ROOTBLASTŪ Growing Mix
Chapter 4. Directions For Using ROOTBLASTŪ
Chapter 5. Gardening Tips And Bits N Pieces
Appendix A: Elements Essential For Robust Plant Growth
Appendix B: Mixing Instructions For ROOTBLASTŪ Growing Mix
Chapter One
WHATEVER HAPPENED TO
GOOD OL MOTHER EARTH?
Why Professionals Use Soilless Mixes
The most common form of planting medium for centuries has been earth. Earth not only provides an excellent anchor and an excellent environment for root systems to pick up the elements necessary for the plant to survive, but it also provides most of the essential elements themselves.
Why then do professionals use a soilless planting medium?
First of all, good clean uncontaminated nutritious earth is getting difficult to find. The heavy uses of insecticides, pesticides, herbicides & fertilizers in many cases have seriously contaminated a large portion of easily accessible soil, as well as the soilborne diseases that have developed over the years.
Secondly, earth is very heavy to handle in container production.
Thirdly, and probably the most important disadvantage to earth in container growing, is that the pH and salt levels would differ from container to container.
To overcome the disadvantages of earth, manufactured growing medium has become increasingly popular. They have been using it in Europe for years and I dont know of a major greenhouse operation in North America that doesnt use it now, instead of using earth.
By using YOUR OWN MIX with ROOTBLASTŪ, you can start with a known entity, controlled pH, salt levels, moisture holding capacity, drainage ability and balanced nutrient levels. The four ingredients for ROOTBLASTŪ growing mix are peat moss, vermiculite, perlite and ROOTBLASTŪ.
Peat is partly decayed plant matter that has collected in bogs, marshes and swamps over long periods of time and is generally the first stage in the formation of coal. There are several kinds of mosses from which peat is formed. The most important kind for you is sphagnum moss. It is soft spongy, slow to break down and has the ability to absorb and hold large quantities of moisture. Its pH ranges from 3.2 to 4.8. Please note: very little vegetation growth is possible under such low pH conditions. You must add nutrients and water-retaining minerals.
Vermiculite is just such a mineral, found in deposits throughout the world. Vermiculite is used in manufactured growing medium because of its ability to absorb and release nutrients and moisture. It is referred to as being inert but it does have a pH ranging from 7.3 to 7.8.
Perlite is siliceous glassy rock of volcanic origin and its deposits are found in various countries throughout the world. Perlite is used in manufactured growing medium because of its light weight, its ability to create small air pockets in the mix, and its ability to eliminate compacting.
I found that plants thrive in, and professional growers demand:
a material light in weight, yet heavy enough to provide an anchor for a small or large plant.
a material that would aid in the photosynthesis of the plant.
something that would reduce the shock that the seedling, plant or tree is subjected to when transplanting it to its new location.
a material that could readily be leached if an error was made by over fertilization causing salt buildup.
a material that is weed free, disease free and perfectly balanced in plant nutrients.
and most importantly, a material that when in place, would require little or no maintenance.
I overcame the problems by using the coarsest long-fibered peat I could find, to allow greater amounts of the plant structural elements of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen to be carried to the root zone with each watering. This type of peat with its slow break down properties also requires virtually no replacement of medium for at least two years.
Virtually everyone who has used the growing medium with ROOTBLASTŪ has written or called to praise its ability to reduce shock, its creation of a faster take off of the newly planted material, and especially the low maintenance required.
Chapter Two
THE WEED FREE, DISEASE FREE,
NO SWEAT WAY TO GARDEN
For those of us who do not have the space for an outdoor garden or the time to weed and look after it, the answer is to grow your seeds, seedlings, herbs, etc. in a container, using my secret ROOTBLASTŪ formula in the best known growing medium that you can easily make yourself.
Your growing medium with ROOTBLASTŪ (made as directed in Appendix B) is a PERFECTLY BALANCED FORMULA to promote extremely fast root development in containers and outdoor and indoor gardens. You will become your own expert gardener. You will also prevent your plants from being attacked by soil-borne diseases, fungus, and even ground insects (in container use).
A well-structured medium does MORE than provide a foundation for roots to grab on to. It lets the roots breathe easily, provides the right amount of nutrients and water to the plant and has the right amount of nutrients and water to the plant and has the right pH balance for growing plants.
Your professional mix will require you to purchase sphagnum peat moss compressed (as it has not been treated), vermiculite, perlite, and our ROOTBLASTŪ formula. This will give you the optimum growing medium at the lowest cost. Invest in this medium and it will pay your back many times over with quality results.
NOTE: Peat moss in itself is sold sterile (so it will not harbor weeds or disease), so is vermiculite and perlite. Our ROOTBLASTŪ formula is all you need to balance it back to an ideal growing medium.
NOTE: Because the mix is primarily peat moss, it may absorb water slowly at first. This will only happen for a short time, and will not occur again after the peat has been thoroughly soaked.
Chapter Three
USES FOR YOUR ROOTBLASTŪ GROWING MIX
CONTAINER GARDENING:
You can use your mixture in any container with proper drainage (this is very important) e.g. pots, planters, holes in cement blocks, window boxes or any container that will hold your mixture, use your imagination. Make sure that holes are large enough to allow proper drainage.
Plant your flowers, onion sets, bulbs, cuttings, seedlings, potatoes etc. directly into the moistened mixture and WATER THOROUGHLY.
Important! Fertilize with a good secondary plant food formula 2-3 weeks after planting for exceptional results. Secondary fertilizing after the roots are developed is absolutely essential.
STARTING SEEDS INDOORS:
If you plan to start seeds indoors, the mix should be slightly changed. Substitute additional vermiculite for the perlite (i.e. use no perlite). Plant seeds directly into the mix according to the instructions on the seed packet.
This mix provides the ideal environment and nutritional charge for seeds of all types. Some long time gardeners who have never been able to germinate certain species have reported great success when they used the ROOTBLASTŪ mix.
If you plan to transplant the seedlings into larger containers before planting them outdoors, use the ROOTBLASTŪ mix in larger container as well. (See Chapter 5 for additional hints on seed starting.)
STARTING SEED OUTDOORS:
Dig the furrow approximately one inch deeper than normal. Fill that inch with ROOTBLASTŪ Mix. Work about 1 inch of the mix into the soil approximately 3-4 inches on either side of the furrow. Plant the seed directly in the ROOTBLASTŪ Mix according to the instructions on the seed packet. Cover with garden soil.
PLANTING TRANSPLANTS INGROUND OUTDOORS:
Another secret of the pros is to use a little of this soilless mix for all inground planting. It produces the ultimate in results because the pH is perfect and small young roots can easily penetrate this loose medium. Plant as you normally would, but when digging the hole for the transplant, place a handful of soilless mix at the bottom of the hole. Try to let the whole root ball of the transplant directly touch the mix. The more soilless mix you use, the better the results. Water well. Great for all types of flowers (annuals and perennials) and vegetables.
VERY IMPORTANT:
ROOTBLASTŪ was designed to do one thing only, stimulate root growth, so you wont see the results for the first 2 weeks because growth activity will occur under the ground with the roots. ROOTBLASTŪ is not a plant food, so after 2-3 weeks begin feeding your plants as you have in the past. For example, if you used a 15-30-15 plant food in the past continue to do so, but expect greater results because your plants huge root system will be far better able to absorb nutrition!
INTERESTING WAYS OTHERS HAVE USED ROOTBLASTŪ GROWING MEDIUM.
The Reverend Herb Herring, grew all his flowers, plants and vegetables in discarded plastic pails he got from the local restaurant. He even had a complete potato harvest in ten white contains.
Ken Smith, Gardening Editor for the London Free Press, Ontario, Canada, grows his cherry tomatoes and cucumbers in hanging baskets.
Sid and Marnie Tatham, have a huge outdoor garden as well as various sized containers. My biggest surprise was their half barrel with a complete crop of cantaloupe AND more Sweet 100 cherry tomatoes on one plant than I have ever seen, AND all in one half barrel.
Jamie DeBorghraeve, grew watermelons and flowers in the cavities of cement blocks.
John Bradshaw, grew all his favorite herbs in an 18 plastic pail outside his kitchen on his apartment balcony.
My favorite, though is a 78 year young widow in Toronto, Ontario, who grows lettuce, small onions, radishes and tomatoes in a long window box attached to the railing of her 8th floor apartment balcony! She delights and amazes her friends by picking her salad ingredients right off her balcony.
Chapter Four
DIRECTIONS FOR USING ROOTBLASTŪ
Of course using your ROOTBLASTŪ growing mix is ideal when starting with seeds or new plantings. But, ROOTBLASTŪ does wonders for houseplants when they need repotting. And, if you have a garden already started or newly planted perennials and other plants which are already in the ground, you can apply ROOTBLASTŪ directly into the soil.
ROOTBLASTŪ can be used at anytime of the year. It can be used on newly planted bedding plants and young plants planted from seed. You may use ROOTBLASTŪ on roses, wild flowers, perennials, shrubs and trees of all types which are already established from previous years. From newly planted, to plants many years old, ROOTBLASTŪ can be used on anything green that grows.
Use the following directions as guidelines when applying ROOTBLASTŪ directly to your plants. REMEMBER always follow-up 2 to 3 weeks later with a good fertilizer appropriate to the type of plant and follow that fertilizers directions carefully. Now that your plants have bigger root systems the plants will drink up the fertilizer faster and more completely.
STARTER CUTTINGS: Mix 3/4 teaspoon of ROOTBLASTŪ with your soil or potting mix when planting in a 4 inch pot, or 1 teaspoon when planting in a 5 inch pot. Never use more than 1.5 teaspoons of ROOTBLASTŪ for any size potted plant.
REPOTTING HOUSE PLANTS: Mix 1 teaspoon of ROOTBLASTŪ with new soil and plant in a pot or container that is at least one size larger than the one currently being used.
SEEDS INDOORS: Mix ROOTBLASTŪ with soil until evenly distributed before planting. Use 7 tablespoons (or 4 ounces) per cubic foot of medium
SEEDS OR YOUNG PLANTS OUTDOORS: Prepare soil for planting, sprinkle 3/4 teaspoon of ROOTBLASTŪ into hole and gently work into soil. Plant and water thoroughly. Needed only once per year.
ALREADY PLANTED ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, SHRUBS AND TREES: Sprinkle one heaping tablespoon around the drip line of each plant. For plants larger than a 18 in diameter apply one teaspoon of ROOTBLASTŪ per foot of drip line. (The drip line is the circumference of the green growth of the plant) Gently work ROOTBLASTŪ one inch into the soil with rake. Water thoroughly with a gentle spray. May be applied every 6 months.
DENSELY PLANTED FLOWER BEDS: For large beds of mixed plantings broadcast 2-3 pounds per 100 square feet. Apply to dry plants only! This allows ROOTBLASTŪ to fall to the soil without sticking to the leaves. Water thoroughly after application. ROOTBLASTŪ does not harm the leaves but, needs to get to the plants roots. May be applied every 6 months.
OUTDOOR CONTAINERS OR POTS: Mix ROOTBLASTŪ with soil until evenly distributed. For a 4 inch pot use 3/4 teaspoon, for a 5 inch pot use 1 teaspoon. Never use more than 1.5 teaspoons of ROOTBLASTŪ for any one plant regardless of container size.
GARDENS: Broadcast 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet and rake or incorporate into top 3 inches of soil. Use once per season.
IMPORTANT: Water thoroughly after applying ROOTBLASTŪ. Wait two to three weeks after applying ROOTBLASTŪ and fertilize as you would normally. Never apply more ROOTBLASTŪ than recommended.
Chapter Five
GARDENING TIPS AND BITS N PIECES
There are many varieties of beautiful flowers and vegetables available only as seed. Many veteran gardeners prefer to grow from seed for various reasons. These gardeners also maintain that their plants are healthier and hardier.
a bigger variety of plants to choose from
much lower costs, so you can fill a larger area of garden on a budget
start gardening earlier in the spring
a greater sense of accomplishment
just plain fun
Supplies Needed
You can get your seeds from many sources including highly reputable mail order houses and, of course, your local garden center. These outlets usually have information also available on growing from seed.
Pick up a supply of growing trays and mini-pots at your garden center. Make sure they will allow good drainage. You can also use the cells of egg cartons, styrofoam or paper (dixie) cups, just poke a small hole in the bottom of each cell or cup for drainage.
Mix up a batch of the ROOTBLASTŪ growing medium as outlined in Appendix A at the end of this booklet.
Planting
Depending on the type of plant, start seeds 4 to 8 weeks before the last frost if you plan to move them outdoors. If you plan to keep your herbs inside, start anytime. Nearly-fill each compartment of your tray/containers with ROOTBLASTŪ growing medium. Sprinkle 2-3 seeds in each compartment and cover with the medium. Water well and cover each container with clear plastic. Store in a warm place. Once the seedlings have appeared, uncover and move to a sunny spot. Turn the trays/pots regularly. Leave only one seedling per cell/pot by poking down extra seedlings with a pencil. When seedlings are 2-3 tall, transfer to larger pots or cups.
Transplanting to garden
Two weeks before you are ready to plant your seedlings outside, you must harden them by taking them outside for a few hours each day. When there is no longer any risk of frost, take them out of the pots/cups and plant them into the garden. Dig a hole for the seedling, add your ROOTBLASTŪ growing medium, add the seedling, some water and cover. Water regularly (but dont over water) and in about 2-3 weeks after planting, start feeding with plant food. Give seeds a try. Its a great way to increase your gardening satisfaction, and a good activity for children too.
PERENNIALS
Although perennials usually cost more, they reward the gardener with season after season of subtle beauty. Then too, they often multiply, providing new stack for garden expansion or to trade with other gardeners.
Before you rush out to buy a truck load of perennials, draw out a garden plan, taking into consideration:
What type of plants you would like to have and if the location is suitable for these types.
Where these plants will be placed - with larger and taller plants in back and smaller and lower plants in front.
What color the blooms are and the blooming time, so their display will be pleasing for a longer period.
NOTE: When you bring your perennial plants home from the garden center, it helps to get them into the ground quickly. Cooler, slightly overcast conditions are ideal for planting, to help reduce heat stress and wilting, and to keep the plants from drying out. Also, its important to resist the temptation to plant the plants in too tightly. They need room and space to grow properly.
Keep a journal or photo album of your garden to track its progress from year to year.
ANNUALS
Buying from a reputable grower or garden center is your best assurance of good quality bedding plants. However, here are some tips for when you go out to buy your annual bedding plants. These will help you make sure you get full value for your money.
Buying from a reputable grower or garden center is your best assurance of good quality bedding plants. However, here are some tips for when you go out to buy your annual bedding plants. These tips will help you make sure you get full value for your money.
Buy the healthiest plants you can find, with deep green color and compact, bushy growth.
Choose plants that havent begun to bloom yet. Plants with unopened buds will establish faster.
Avoid stressed plants. Bargain-priced plants displayed on a hot sidewalk or parking lot can suffer from wilt or damaged roots that will inhibit their growth.
Watch for signs of insect or disease damage. If you see them, dont buy.
Planting perennials and annuals
Be sure to add your ROOTBLASTŪ growing medium into the hole where it will be readily available to the plant roots as they establish themselves. Water the new plants well, and keep the soil moist (not water-logged) for a few days to help plants settle into the soil.
WILDFLOWERS
Wildflowers thrive on conditions that defeat many other types of flowers. Youll find they flourish beautifully in a shady setting.
Dont be tempted to rush out and dig plants in the wild. (besides being illegal in many areas, its unfriendly to wild plants and the environment). Many nurseries and garden centers have special wildflower sections, and they can advise you on which plants are appropriate for your conditions.
When choosing a site for your wildflower garden, keep in mind these plants prefer a lightly dappled shade in the springtime when theyre flowering, and more shade cover in late spring and summer to keep the habitat from drying out. Like most other plants, wildflowers will not survive in a very dark compacted area.
Planting
Prepare a good deep bed with plenty of your ROOTBLASTŪ growing medium mixed in. Plant in an informal pattern. Wildflowers look best in groups, as they would appear in the wild. Given the right growing environment, wildflowers soon spread. Youll be rewarded with bright splashes of color, crisp blooms and cool rich greens to enjoy for years to come.
ROSES AND SHRUBS
When planting your roses and shrubs, be sure to surround the rootball with your ROOTBLASTŪ growing medium and water well for them to re-establish and stabilize faster. Remember! Even large, mature plants need ROOTBLASTŪ for emerging new feeder roots.
HERBS
There is nothing like the fresh fragrance that greets you when you are near a collection of herb plants. Growing herbs successfully is not difficult. Theyll fit in just about anywhere as long as they get adequate sunshine. Most herbs require at least 6 hours of sun per day.
You can plan a special garden just for herbs, or blend them in with other plants in a vegetable, perennial or rose garden. Just remember to use your ROOTBLASTŪ growing medium for great results. Because they can spread very rapidly, its a good idea to bury root partitions (i.e. large diameter cardboard tubing or pots) into the soil around them to prevent them from crowding other plants. You can also plant them in containers kept handy to the kitchen where you can snip a sprig or two just as you need it. Herbs thrive better if pruned frequently.
Harvesting your herbs for future use
Its best to harvest the plants on cool cloudy days. Cut them and place them in cool water to avoid wilting.
Dry the herbs in bunches hanging by their stems, or lay them out on screens. To maintain all the delicious taste and fragrance, its important to keep the foliage loose, allowing good air circulation. The ideal drying location will be warm (not hot), dark and well ventilated to avoid the risk of mildew.
Store in glass or crockery containers when they are dry, but before they become brittle. Depending on the plant, theyll last from 6 months to 3 years.
WATERING TIPS
Water is very important to any healthy plant. Without sufficient water, your plants will wilt and cause enormous stress to the plant. With water conservation becoming an important environmental issue, how can we make sure all the water used for our plants gets put to good use?
Most importantly, use your ROOTBLASTŪ growing medium, larger root systems make the plant more drought resistant.
Water your plants early in the morning, so your plants have an opportunity to utilize the moisture in the daylight hours.
Watering in late afternoon or at night, especially in hot humid conditions, can promote disease. Water thoroughly for a few hours, rather than a light sprinkling here and there. Dont be afraid to let the soil dry out at the surface level. This will encourage deep-rooting so plants will be better able to withstand drought and other stresses.
As plants use the water and air they are naturally replenished. What about other nutrients? What happens when they get depleted by the plants? You must replace these nutrients to ensure the continued health of your plants, regardless of how good your soil is to begin with. ALWAYS FOLLOW UP WITH A FEEDING PROGRAM OF PLANT FOOD.
BITS N PIECES
You should stop watering onion plants when the tops fall over, otherwise, you hinder the ripening process.
Before using clay pots, place the pots in water for 24 hours, otherwise they remove too much moisture from the potting mix.
Do not use scissors for cutting your flowers. Use only sharp knives and cut at a 45 degree angle.
Never place cut flowers beside fresh fruit because the gasses released from fruit are damaging to cut flowers.
Planting nasturtiums near radishes improves the taste of radishes.
Marigolds near tomatoes increases the yield of tomatoes.
Due to their taste or poisonous nature, many perennials are naturally resistant to insects and animals.
Plants resistant to deer and other animals: astilbe, bleeding heart, columbine, daffodil, foxglove, iris, periwinkle, lavender, lungwort and sunflower.
To control garden pests, plant species which repel insects such as: marigolds to repel whitefly, nasturtiums to repel aphids and caterpillars, radishes to repel vine borers, tomatoes to repel diamond back moth, fleas and beetles, and garlic to repel many insects.
Create a hospitable environment for beneficial insects: marigolds, dill and spearmint are known to attract spiders.
APPENDIX A
ELEMENTS ESSENTIAL FOR ROBUST PLANT
GROWTH
There are several classifications of elements that a plant needs to thrive.
Some elements are needed in large amounts and are called major elements or macro nutrients while others are needed in small amounts and are called minor or trace elements or micro nutrients. However, the terms major and minor do not refer to the relative importance of their function, only to the relative amounts required.
The essential elements can be classified into the following groups.
Plant structural elements: Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen. These
These elements are of no economic
concern as adequate amounts are
supplied by air & water.
Major elements: Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium,
Calcium, Magnesium, Sulfur.
Minor elements: Boron, Chlorine, Cooper, Iron,
Manganese, Molybdenum, Zinc.
MAJOR ELEMENTS
NITROGEN promotes shoot growth, green color and regeneration.
PHOSPHORUS stimulates early root growth and provides energy for the plant.
POTASSIUM strengthens the plant tissue and increases resistance to disease.
CALCIUM promotes strong plant cells.
MAGNESIUM plays a vital role in the chlorophyll molecule that promotes green color in plant.
SULFUR promotes sturdy plant stems and stalks.
MINOR OR TRACE ELEMENTS
Only small amounts are required in comparison to the major elements. However, they are just as essential for growth. The range between beneficial and harmful amounts is very narrow.
(PRECISE AMOUNTS)
BORON helps plant pick up nutrients.
CHLORINE essential for photosynthesis. Improves water uptake & color of leaf.
COPPER helps photosynthesis.
IRON involved in chlorophyll formation and helps plant breathe.
MANGANESE helps break down nutrients for better availability.
MOLYBDENUM also helps break down nutrients for better availability and speeds up a balance nutrient uptake.
ZINC associated with enzymes (growth promoting substances).
APPENDIX B
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR
PROFESSIONAL GARDENING MEDIUM
On a clean surface (piece of plywood, plastic drop cloth or wheel barrow):
1. Open peat bale and loosen peat moss.
2. Evenly spread vermiculite, perlite and ROOTBLASTŪ over peat.
3. Mix very thoroughly with a garden rake.
4. Moisten with water and mix in (this step is optional).
Note: If you choose to complete step #4 the mix should just stick together when a handful is squeezed. If it doesnt, mix more thoroughly and carefully add a little more water.
Quantities based on Sphagnum peat moss bale sizes (compressed bales). Available at your local discounter or garden center:
| Peat Moss | 1 peck | 3 peck | 1 cu ft | 2.2 cu ft | 3.8 cu ft | 6 cu ft |
| Vermiculite | 2 qts | 4.5 qts | 10 qts | 21 qts | 37 qts | 60 qts |
| Perlite | 1 qt | 1.5 qts | 3 qts | 7 qts | 12 qts | 20 qts |
| RootblastŪ | 3.5 TB | 8 TB | 18 TB | 40 TB | 68 TB | 108 TB |
| (2 oz) | (4.5 oz) | (10 oz) | (22 oz) | (38 oz) | (60 oz) | |
| Total Yield |
.5 cu ft |
1.2 cu ft |
2.5 cu ft |
5.5 cu ft |
9.5 cu ft |
15 cu ft |
* Measure ROOTBLASTŪ 1.8 tablespoons (TB) per ounce. All quarts are U.S. quarts.
** 1 peck = 8 quarts
If you are an experienced grower and use your own mix, you will need about 4 oz. of ROOTBLASTŪ per cubic foot of mix.
Your growing medium with ROOTBLASTŪ (made as directed), is a perfectly balanced formula to promote extremely fast root development. You may also use this growing medium for all your indoor and outdoor planting needs.
Note: If using the ROOTBLASTŪ mix to germinate seeds indoors, do not use perlite. Instead substitute the same quantity of vermiculite in its place.
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