Before reading the tuning recommendations offered below please understand that there are several different ways to successfully tune your boat.  Please use the information as a starting point for developing your  own unique style.  In all probablity you will discover something new about the boat.  In the spirit that these tips were given please feel free to give us your discoveries. 

Static (beach) Tuning:

Alex Shafer

John Casey (JC)

Jay Roth

David Ingram

If you are traveling down more than 4" and leaving it there bring up the boards 4-6".When you are traveling out 1' or more bring the boards up about the same (1'). Put some reference marks on your boards and play with them. It is all weight related. The more weight the less board you will have to bring up. Also when traveling out you will need to sheet in really hard.

If you start to have problems with rudder cavitation change your springs on the castings. Usually this is the problem.

Try setting your mast rake at the back of the boat(no more than 6" back.). Learn to sail the boat at that position  then start moving it back. This setting is good for bouys. More rake works in big air or distance racing.

- Alex Shafer

The I-20 does look like a doozy of a mast rake. I have modified shrouds  (Something like 23'9 3/4" or something) so I don't have to put the shroud at the bottom hole of the chainplate. I have an additional chain plate on the forestay, as well, and my "string test" puts it  between 1/3 and 1/2 back on the rudder. I usually sail light (325 - 355 #), but may rake it back a bit more, since I seem to stall the rudders a bit when the boards are down on a reach. Course, I may just pull the  boards up a bit more, which is easier!

- Jay Roth

The beauty of the boat is its ability to be competitive in a wide range of rake situations. I've moved the rake all over the place and there are just subtle differences in driving/sheeting that make all the differences, with the boat still performing great. Different teams successfully sail the boat with all different setups. This is still a dynamic situation. I change my setup regularly to try and understand my baby a little bit more.

The boat will perform definitely at where Kirk Newkirk puts it (I think he carries a little more rake then me). Kirk points really,  really, really high. I'd probably leave it and learn how to sail the boat the way it is currently set up, especially (as Dave mentioned) since you sail light or by yourself sometimes. If the rudders stall a lot put  it forward some. When you have mastered this set up start changing things until you set to your sailing, then you will be "dialed in" Great to have you in the fleet!

- John Casey (JC)

It’s very normal for the I-20 to carry a large amount of mast rake. The method to measure your rake is as follows:

Untie one your trap lines. Walk the line to the point where the bridle wire attaches to the boat. Pull the trap line tight and hold it where the line touches the hard point for the bridle. Walk the trap line to the back of the boat, with the trap line tight it should touch the trailing edge of the rudder (in the  up position) somewhere in the middle of the rudder.

Typically you carry more rake as the wind increases, conversely you move the mast forward as the wind lightens up. The amount of rake you carry is also weight dependent.

You will need to experiment and find out what works best for you. I typically don’t move my mast around very much. I have had very limited success moving it.

- David Ingram