Modified OEM Bypass Valve
  Parts needed:
  • 1/4"-20 x 1/4" set screw (found mine at Home Depot)
  • Short piece of 3/16" steel brake line
  • 1/4"-20 tap
  • 6mm tap and die
  • 13/64" drill bit
  • #7 drill bit (the 13/64" will work for this as well)
  • Allen wrench for set screw
  • Tubing Cutter
  • JB Weld
  • Brake parts cleaner
  • WD-40 or some grease
Dill out this hole with a #7 drill bit.  (If you don't have a #7, then a 13/64" will work).  Make it deep enough for the entire set screw.  Drill the hole up-side-down so that metal shavings don't fall inside.
Take the 1/4"-20 tap and apply some grease or WD-40.  This will help to lubricate the tap and also catch metal shavings.  Run the tap in and out until the entire set screw can be screwed in.
Now drill a 13/64" hole into the passage.  There is a boss in the casting, but you'll want to drill more into the center of the passage.
Tap the hole with the 6mm tap.

When finished, clean out the passage with some brake parts cleaner.  Be sure to spray any metal shavings out.
Cut a piece of 3/16" steel brake line to about 3/4" using a tubing cutter.  The piece I used had a flare on one end.

Take the 6mm die and run it down the tube.  The threads won't cut very deep.

It may be easier to thread it first, then cut it.  Do whatever works for you.
Take the brake line and thread it into the hole.  Make sure you can still get the bolt for the BOV in.  If the brake line is in the way, you'll need to cut it shorter.
Mix up a small batch of JB Weld.

Spread it around the outside of the brake line and screw it into the tapped hole.  Don't screw it in so far that it plugs up the passage...just a few turns.
Apply some JB weld to the set screw and screw it all the way in.  Wipe off any excess.

Let the JB weld harden over night.

(click for larger image)		 Here is the stop leak solenoid from http://www.dejontool.com.  This will hold the valve shut at 15+psi, and allow it to vent normally below 15psi.

(click for larger image)		 The solenoid needs both a pre- and post-manifold boost source.  For the pre-manifold, I drilled and tapped a hole in the flange for the BOV on my FMIC kit.  You could also use the nipple on the turbo, but I was not sure how this would affect the boost control.  For post-manifold boost I just tapped the hose that goes to the BOV.