A discussion on Dial-Up MODEMS and CONNECTIVITY:

Basically there are THREE types of Dial-Up modems:

1. Internal WinModem: These are the "Fred Flintstone" basic El Cheapo modems that come in a lot of over the counter computers. These can include the "On Board" or built in modems that are on some boards. These will get you on line, but are really spotty in performance, as they must rely on your CPU (processor) chip to operate. Sharing operations with other things in your computer. IF you are into multi-tasking, this is NOT the way to go, as it will SLOW DOWN your multi tasking AND your connectivity. (these are serial com port modems)

2. Internal HARDWARE modem: These have their OWN processor, so do NOT share operations with the CPU. They are generally faster by a good percentage, but are MORE expensive. These modems can be used on a Linux platform as well. Fewer manufacturers make these modems. And MOST are getting OUT of this type, as the VOLUME of sales for them doesn't justify their continuance (Motorola and Lucent have recently bailed on these and USRobotics appears to be dropping their line .. the top 3 in the business .. LEAVING the construction of these modems.) (these are serial com port modems)

3. External Modems: These are ALL hardware modems. Another step up in reliability and speed. Hayes and 3Com/USRobotics are the leaders in these. Not sure if Hayes is still making these, but 3Com/USRobitics IS, and theirs is the top of the line. There are TWO types of externals .. serial com port and USB, with the USB being even FASTER on a Windows machine than a serial type. BOTH are the recommended modems for Linux.

Modem Operation tips:

First and foremost, you need a clean and balanced telephone line. The copper furnished by your local dial tone provider is the true key to operation. You need to make sure you have a "clear and balanced" line. To have this tested:

Remove all, and I mean ALL, non-functional inside wire leads attached to the "protector" or "customer interface" (this unit is usually located where the line from the street meets the house.) Make sure that the interface is properly GROUNDED .. that the connection that runs to a cold water pipe or to a driven in ground rod is secure and tight. Then, remove EVERY telephone set inside but ONE .. including REMOVING your computer.

Call your local dial tone provider service number and have them test for "clear and balanced". 99% of those providers DO NOT CHARGE for the test itself.

IF your line PASSES the test, you are off and running.
If NOT, get into a discussion with your dial tone provider about correcting the condition. By FEDERAL LAW .. if demanded, they must provide you with a line capable of supporting a 9600 baud FAX line. If it is noisy (in audable to you) it wouldn't do for a FAX .. so they MUST repair it within a specified length of time (not sure of the actual time frame, but in MOST areas it is 90 days.) If they say it can't be done or make some lame excuse, threatening to write a letter to your local public utilities commission works WONDERS, and miraculously, they WILL find a way to fix it.

Now the Hook-Up:

DO NOT use telephone connection cords that are lying around stuffed into a drawer, get a NEW ONE. And, get the right length (or close to it) as TRIPPING on the line or getting it sucked up into the vacuum cleaner, or presenting a tempting target for the dog or cat or a rug rat to chew on should be self explanatory.

DO NOT use a "line splitter" to run any external telephone type devices (caller ID, answering machines, external bells, and the like.) .. all you have to do is lightly step on one of those and you are out of business. If there is a need to have such devices (including a phone at your desk) take the feed OUT OF the modem .. that puts your COMPUTER as the first device on the line and makes it a LOT easier to trace down a problem, if it should occur.

DO get a telephone surge protector, these can be built into your power surge protector or can be bought as a stand-alone device that plugs into a power outlet near your phone outlet .. run a short cord to it and the long cord to the computer area.
I CAN NOT OVER EMPHASIZE the importance of this device in protecting both your modem AND your computer.


Now, you are ready to hook up/set up.

(This should work for all plug and play (plug and PRAY) modems as well.)

INTERNAL: (this is assuming you are going to bail on a M. Michael Mouse built on the board modem or replace an existing modem with a better one.)

FIRST go to start/settings/control panel/add-remove programs and REMOVE anything pertaining to your OLD Modem.
Then start/settings/control panel/modems and remove any reference to the old modem and settings.
(You MAY have to also go to my computer/dial-up networking and write down ALL of those settings and REMOVE the program (you will RE INSTALL this later .. with AOL, so I have been told, this is NOT required.) BUT you can get by with leaving this still set up in MOST cases .. really depends on your ISP here, and IF you have difficulty, you WILL have to contact them for a re-set up.)

Shut down and power OFF.

In a separate place, write down the make, model, and serial number of your board .. you WILL need this later.

Make sure you follow the manufacturers instructions to the letter.
Unplugging the machine and grounding yourself by touching the power supply before messing with the motherboard should be automatic. AND, make sure when you plug your modem into the board that you seat it COMPLETELY. FAILING TO DO THIS MAY RESULT in Windows NOT being able to see and load the new modem! IF you have NOT used the slot in the board for anything and you have a computer that has been up and running for a while, go to the Shack or your local electronics outlet and buy a can of compressed air. Use it to BLOW out any dust that may have accumulated there. Also, plug the card in and take it out several times, as this will "burnish" the contacts and remove any oxidation or crud that may have accumulated on them (actually, this is a good idea on any card and any board when you install them.)

Close up, plug in the power, and boot up.

Windows should detect the new modem.

When it does, let it install generic drivers OR, IF you are fortunate enough, the specified drivers contained within Windows for your particular make and model of modem. That will get you RUNNING, but is NOT the complete installation as
NEXT you will have to install all the ancillary programs furnished with your modem .. (in the case of USRobotics DO NOT install their NEW fax program as it is a piece of garbage and will probably mess everything up.) (The exception being Quick Link, which is NOT one of their programs)
THEN you need to go to your manufacturers site, register your modem and download their LATEST (should be self installing) drivers FOR that modem.

That should do it!

For an EXTERNAL modem:

Follow the software un installing as above.

Plug in the Power transformer, plug the line into the back of the modem. Run the feed to the computer, If a serial cable you must select an available com port on the back of the machine. Power up the modem.

IF USB DO NOT plug it in! (different animal)

Boot up and follow the instructions for software installation as above.

USB:::: First boot the computer and install the software from your furnished disk, THEN plug in the modem and power up the modem. Windows should detect the modem as in all other cases, but you MAY need to DIRECT Windows to the location of the software FOR that modem.

As with the internals, you will need to go on line and register and download their latest drivers to replace those that came with the modem (this stuff is usually updated at regular intervals, and you need to keep apprised of those changes/improvements.)

HAPPY SURFING!!