So... back to the drawing board:
NOTE: Now remember, I already had the top crash to the floor on me once... so I openly admit... this is just a little over-designed:
My biggest concern was how to safely lower the top down onto the Jeep without any chance of repeating my previous experience. I pondered on that for quite some time... we'll get back to that later.
First I had to come up with something to hook on to the 2 dr Hard Top.
I built the (I) frame out of angle iron. 1 1/2" x 3/16". I braced the front "tee" (also made with angle iron) with a couple of flat steel straps, bolted at each end:
Unlike the 4 dr Hard Top... the 2 dr Hard Top doesn't have the overhanging lip in the front, so hooks on the left and right sides wouldn't work. I had to hook-in from the front lip of the Hard Top.
I also needed some type of J bolts to hook underneath the rear window. Couldn't find the right size (length and diameter) for these anywhere. I found and called a custom bolt making shop and explained what I needed and asked if they could make them. They said, "Sure, we can make them, but it might be expensive for just 2 J bolts". I asked, "How expensive"? The guy said, "Well, we have to set up the machine and pay the guy to make them... so probably about $150.00." I told him, "No thanks".
I ended up going to a shop that makes custom springs for big trucks. I had them make 2 - 7 1/2" x 4" U bolts, shown below. These were $6.25 each. I cut a couple inches off one side to make the J. I covered these with water pipe insulation foam tubing and placed a tennis ball on the end inside the fiberglass top.
While I was at the custom spring shop, I asked if they had any "flat steel". They cut 2 pieces of 2" x 6" x 1/4" flat steel. I took these, bent them slightly and covered them with a piece of bicycle inner tube. These would be my hooks that would slip under the front lip. These were $5.50 each:
I was talking to a buddy at the gym about the (almost) catastrophe and he suggested I rig up a block and tackle. Well... at the time, I knew nothing about a block and tackle set up, so I researched that and found a very cool website that explained the concept:
I actually had a hard time locating good pulleys... but finally purchased them at a "Rigging Supply" store. They hooked me up (pun intended) with all the pulleys, cable and shackles I needed. While I was there, I asked if they had anything safe for lowering the top back down. They had one thing to say, "Break Winch". Now... they have cheapos at Harbor Freight for around $25, but I'm not sure they have the "break" on them. This was the most important thing for me....... so, I shot my wad on this and bought a good old Made in the USA Break Winch from the professionals... $89.50... but a new top is $1,000.
My next problem was how to mount the Break Winch on the wall. I couldn't mount it directly to the wall because I couldn't turn the handle more than half a turn. I came up with this, and YES, it's sort of a "belt and suspenders" design, but it will never move. I used scrap wood, and the turnbuckles were only $4.50 each:
Next thing to do was to brace the 2 x 4 ceiling joist. I butted a 2 x 6 up against it and secured it with 4- 3/8" bolts .
Lastly, hook up the pulleys and cables and give it a go.
NOTE: The blue and white striped rope (seen in some of the photos) was used to find the exact balance before drilling through the angle iron for the shackle, it will be removed next time I lower it down. Also... Since I already had the 4 eye bolts in the ceiling for hanging the cheesy tie down straps, I'm still using them for long term storage and stabilization, they are not used for lifting or lowering:
The GOAL! Going TOPLESS!
Hope I haven't bored you with my obsession. Don't forget the "Jeep Wave".
-Steve 6/19/2008 spartacus_33@comcast.net