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Page 3
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Using the transfer punch as a temporary pin I test the rotation of the Barrel Block.
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Next it was back to the Receiver. After a bit more layout dye I scribe a reference line to use as a guide when drilling for the firing pin holder.
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Then using a 1/2" transfer punch I mark the center of the barrel when in the closed position.
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Then I scribe an line .110" offset of the center mark so the firing pin will line up with the case rim.
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After lining the piece back in the lathe on the mark with the pointer again, I drill through and past the reference line I marked before with a 5/32" Drill Bit.
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Next with a Letter I drill bit I drill to a depth of .500"
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Next I used a 5/16"-24 tap and thread the hole.
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Then I used a 23/64" bit and drilled to a depth of .250" and finally I reamed that portion to a final size of 3/8"
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Here you can see the stepped and threaded completed hole.
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Next using a protractor and scribe I laid out a Picatinny Rail on the Barrel Block..
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All the cuts are simple 45 degree angles so I just used the protractor to align the piece in the vise.
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| After milling both sides of the rail I then used a 1/8" end mill to cut a slot straight down the middle of the block, this will be used as a simple sight on the pistol. |
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Next I used a 3/16 end mill and plunge cut two recoil slots on the top of the rail.
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Here is how the finished Picatinny Rail came out.
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| The Picatinny Rail was originally just going to be for looks because at only .750" I though it was to skinny to actually work but after test fitting a BSA Red Dot for laughs it fits fine. It's bigger then the whole gun but I might just have to try it out. |
