1. For a rough estimate of the sheet metal pieces required for the borders, SEE THIS PIC. Cut a piece of sheet metal 6 3/4" x 42" for the bottom border. Line up the bottom border wooden piece in the center (lengthwise), so there is about 2 1/2" of overhang on each end. On one side you will have 1/2" overhang for the inside bend and 2 1/2" on the other side that will eventually wrap around to the bottom side of the pad. You will need to cut pieces out of the corners to allow for bending around the corner of the wood, as well as the joint with the side borders. Look ahead at the pictures and you'll see what I mean. I sized the metal borders so that there will be 1/2" wrap on the inside and 1" on the bottom of the pad.
2. Bending the border pieces is more difficult than the static panels because of their length. There are many ways in which to get a nice bend, so it is up to you and what you have available for tools, etc. I have tried pre-gluing the metal to the wood before bending. I recommend against this because you won't be able to do step 8. I have also tried attaching the border wood to the base and bending the metal in position. This also works but does not provide as much support as the 4x4 I used in step 7. Here are some general rules of thumb to get good results:
- The straighter the wood, the better the bend.
- Always clamp a firm, straight, piece of wood along the top of the bend to keep the metal flat against the wood you are bending it around.
- Score the underside of the bend
- Work slowly with small tightly spaced taps of the mallet along the length of the bend
- Keep the wood as straight as possible during bending (i.e. 4x4 works well)
- File/sand the edge off the wood after you make each bend (explained in the Stationary Panels section) for a snug fit
3. The top and bottom border pieces are cut so as to allow for the side border to butt against the edge of the wood and metal.
4. The wood and metal pieces in this picture are just set in place as a reference. Bottom right corner is shown.
5. For the top border, you will need to line things up and drill a hole through the metal and the wood to allow the wires to come up into the controller. If you are not mounting the controller on the pad, then it would probably be better to route the wires out the side of the top border. I use some electrical tape (green in this picture) to cover the edges of the hole in the metal to prevent any sharp edge from slicing through the wire covering.
6. Temporarily place the top and bottom pieces where they will be mounted and measure the required length of the side border. Should be about 33 3/16" give or take. It is probably better to error on the short side than on the long on this cut because once you bend the side pieces, shortening them by 1/16" is no easy feat.
7. The side borders are the worst because the wooden pieces are narrow and therefore flexible - especially the plywood. If you're rich, use solid oak or some other hardwood for these pieces. Heavy clamping is a must to keep the wood from flexing during the bend.
8. After the first 2 bends, remove the metal piece and slightly bend the corners a little past the 90 degree point all along the bend. This will create a snug fit when you mount it. Just the side piece is shown here but do this to all 4 pieces. NOTE: I should be wearing gloves here - if you cut yourself, don't sue me, it's your own fault.
