Border Part 2

Border - Part 2

Tools Required: Wiss metal snips, 12" & 24" Quick-Grip Bar Clamps, Rubber Mallet, Drill, Tack Hammer, Phillips Screwdriver, Metal file

Click a picture to see a larger view.

11. Attach bottom border piece using spray adhesive (3M Super 77 works well). Clamp until dry, then set up the clamps (as shown) to complete the final bend.

12. Do the bottom, top then the sides in the same manner. Notice the 45 degree triangles that have been snipped off the corners of the sheet metal so it does not overlap in the corner after you bend it over (See Step 14).

13. Not a bad idea to tack the very ends and maybe the midpoint of each border (on the inside). I used a small round headed nail called a Escutcheon pin (#18 x 3/4"). Place them low and tap them in good and tight so they won't interfere with the switch pad. You will need to pre-drill the holes for the pins.
Update (12/15/2005): I found that using an awl and a hammer work well instead of pre-drilling. Firmly tap the awl with a hammer, just enough to puncture the sheet metal in the location that you want the nail.

14. I also use the same pins to secure the underside of the borders. Pre-drill and hold the metal tight against the side while nailing.
Update (12/15/2005): I found that using an awl and a hammer work well instead of pre-drilling. Firmly tap the awl with a hammer, just enough to puncture the sheet metal in the location that you want the nail. Also, linoleum nails work well instead of the pins. They are a little heavier but still have a nice rounded head.

15. File/hammer down any rough edges of all the metal pieces on the underside of the pad. Then cover with aluminum tape (used for ducting, etc.). This shows the underside after I have attached the stationary panels in a few more steps. Just wanted to show how the underside is finished off.

16. The underside will work well like this on a carpet. If you have a hardwood or vinyl type floor, you will want to do something additional to protect the floor.

17. Glue the metal sheathing you created in the Stationary Panels section on to each of the three 11" squares using the spray adhesive (make sure you have rounded all the edges of the wood panel first to ensure a snug fit). Let dry for a bit then file any sharp corners off the stationary pads if necessary. Lightly clamp a panel in each bottom corner of the pad and secure from below with drywall screws. Chances are that the panel and frame are not perfectly square so you might need to rotate the panel until you find a corner that fits well.

18. You will want to electrically tie one of the bottom stationary panels with the center panel. This shows the bottom left panel with a small metal strap that is used for this purpose. If you are using galvy, I would recommend soldering a wire between the panels. Solder does not stick to the sheet metal that I am using so I am using this strap. This is the top right corner of the panel just before the center panel is installed.

19. This pic taken from the left arrow's perspective. Center panel is on the left. The pin head on the right is a reflection.

20. The least elegant feature of my design. I use the aluminum tape to cover the edges where the top and bottom borders meet with the sides. The tape does polish up nice and shiny though with some Simichrome polish. I can almost get it to the point where it matches the sheet metal. If the edges of the metal are rough, you might want to gently file them before you put the tape on.

21. On to the switch panels.

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	11. Attach bottom border piece using spray adhesive (3M Super 77 works well). Clamp until dry, then set up the clamps (as shown) to complete the final bend.
	12. Do the bottom, top then the sides in the same manner. Notice the 45 degree triangles that have been snipped off the corners of the sheet metal so it does not overlap in the corner after you bend it over (See Step 14).
	13. Not a bad idea to tack the very ends and maybe the midpoint of each border (on the inside). I used a small round headed nail called a Escutcheon pin (#18 x 3/4"). Place them low and tap them in good and tight so they won't interfere with the switch pad. You will need to pre-drill the holes for the pins. Update (12/15/2005): I found that using an awl and a hammer work well instead of pre-drilling. Firmly tap the awl with a hammer, just enough to puncture the sheet metal in the location that you want the nail.
	14. I also use the same pins to secure the underside of the borders. Pre-drill and hold the metal tight against the side while nailing. Update (12/15/2005): I found that using an awl and a hammer work well instead of pre-drilling. Firmly tap the awl with a hammer, just enough to puncture the sheet metal in the location that you want the nail. Also, linoleum nails work well instead of the pins. They are a little heavier but still have a nice rounded head.
	15. File/hammer down any rough edges of all the metal pieces on the underside of the pad. Then cover with aluminum tape (used for ducting, etc.). This shows the underside after I have attached the stationary panels in a few more steps. Just wanted to show how the underside is finished off.
	16. The underside will work well like this on a carpet. If you have a hardwood or vinyl type floor, you will want to do something additional to protect the floor.
	17. Glue the metal sheathing you created in the Stationary Panels section on to each of the three 11" squares using the spray adhesive (make sure you have rounded all the edges of the wood panel first to ensure a snug fit). Let dry for a bit then file any sharp corners off the stationary pads if necessary. Lightly clamp a panel in each bottom corner of the pad and secure from below with drywall screws. Chances are that the panel and frame are not perfectly square so you might need to rotate the panel until you find a corner that fits well.
	18. You will want to electrically tie one of the bottom stationary panels with the center panel. This shows the bottom left panel with a small metal strap that is used for this purpose. If you are using galvy, I would recommend soldering a wire between the panels. Solder does not stick to the sheet metal that I am using so I am using this strap. This is the top right corner of the panel just before the center panel is installed.
	19. This pic taken from the left arrow's perspective. Center panel is on the left. The pin head on the right is a reflection.
	20. The least elegant feature of my design. I use the aluminum tape to cover the edges where the top and bottom borders meet with the sides. The tape does polish up nice and shiny though with some Simichrome polish. I can almost get it to the point where it matches the sheet metal. If the edges of the metal are rough, you might want to gently file them before you put the tape on.
	21. On to the switch panels.