I finally sprayed the engine bay with a single-stage acrylic enamel. It was my first time using a real spray gun and expensive paint. It turned out very good.

I wasted no time getting everything back together. I made new brake hard lines and cleaned/refreshed the steering box. The modified front cross member was bolted back in along with the front struts and control arms. I did not take any pictures of the cross member, basically the I flipped the center section and built the motor mounts, then had it powder coated.

I assembled the engine and transmission and prepped it for installation.

I took my time lowering the engine into the engine bay, I did not want to dent anything or scratch the paint.

The engine leveler I was using broke soon after this picture was taken, luckily the engine did not fall far and only resulted in one scratch.

I reused the stock 610 transmission cross member, which bolted to the 240sx transmission without modification. I did have to drill new holes slightly farther back in the underbody. At this point I also installed fresh set of tie-rod ends.

With the engine installed, things started happening faster.

The S14 stock exhaust manifold wanted to contact one of the bolts holding the steering box, I had to use a radius belt sander to make a notch in the manifold to clear the bolt, luckily I noticed this problem BEFORE the manifold got ceramic coated.

The engine wiring harness was completely disassembled and stripped of unnecessary connectors and wires. I re-assembled the wiring harness and covered it in shrink tube for the cleanest look. This took SEVERAL evenings sitting with the factory service manual.

In most cases (including this one) people mount the ECM in the cabin somewhere, that means that the engine wiring harness needs to pass through the firewall. I chose to use a 36 pin circular connector for this job. Just unscrew the connector and your engine wiring harness is detached!

I mounted a small Odyssey battery in the trunk with a custom bracket. This little guy provides plenty of cranking amps for the engine, and only weighs about 8 lbs.

I used a Walbro 255LPH external fuel pump and factory 240sx fuel filter. This pump is not loud and has proven to be very reliable in my other experiences. I also used an AEM fuel pressure regulator that I had custom anodized black. I welded a 1/4" return port on the 610 fuel tank. Side note: the original 610 fuel return line is 3/16" and does not flow enough return fuel for this fuel system and had to be upgraded to 1/4".

 

Attaching the AN fuel lines to the factory fuel rail required some work. I welded a -6AN Male fitting on one end of the fuel rail, and used an HKS adapter in the other (the blue piece). The adapter screws into the fuel rail where the factory fuel pressure regulator was. The fuel rail was powder coated afterward.

 

I searched on the internet for a good MAF sensor adapter, but all I found was cheap Taiwanese ones. I decided to make my own. I measured out a flange and had it water jet cut, then I welded in a 2-3/4" piece of aluminum tube.

The radiator is from a VW Scirrocco. I had to fabricate a mounting bracket on the right side of it, the other side simply screws to the core support. I mounted a low profile electric fan on a set of brackets I designed and had water jet cut and powder coated. The fan is controlled with a relay that is triggered by a thermostatic switch in the radiator end tank. I removed the clutch driven mechanical fan from the engine.

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