Installation and Assembly (Cont'd)
The assembly process took about 2 months of gathering parts and bolting them on. I did have to fabricate a few special pieces including the intake system. I made it out of 2-3/4" aluminum and then had it polished and powder coated a metallic black-chrome color. I used Earl's Anno-Tuff AN fittings/Pro-Lite 350 hose for the idle air and PCV, just because they are the only ones that come in black and they look good. I used the same fittings on the fuel lines. I used and AEM Dry-Flow air filter.
I custom ordered a front anti-swaybar from MadDat in Australia. It is made to for a 180b and fits around "front sumped" engines. It comes very close to hitting the T/C rod mounts (as shown in the far right picture).
This picture shows the excellent ground clearance under the engine. The oil pan is roughly 1/4" higher than the front cross member. Eventually I will make a protective skid plate.
I finally got the fenders and front valence painted and immediately installed them along with the freshly chromed front bumper and NOS front "Euro-style" turn signals. I had to completely rewire the headlights, marker lights and turn signals.
The exhaust system was tricky. Future plans for the car may (or may not) include a turbo or possibly a high compression n/a build. Either way, I wanted to make an exhaust that I could use for any future performance upgrades. Ideally, I wanted to a 2-3/4" system, but I quickly found out that you cannot get any exhaust parts in that size, only 2-1/2" and 3". I decided to go with the 3" size because many people have posted great gains with a stock S14 KA and large exhaust sizes. Apparently, this engine likes big pipes.
The first obstacle was the exhaust manifold outlet. It was a 2-3/4" outlet and had a unique 3-bolt design, intended to have a catalytic converter bolted directly to it. I carefully measured the 3-bolt pattern and designed a flange and had it cut out of 3/8" stainless steel. Later I found out that this is the same outlet on an SR20DET factory downpipe.
I welded a stainless steel transition to the flange to step the size up to 3". I used 3" 304SS mandrel bends to snake around the transmission. I bought all the 304SS bends from these places:
Since the catalytic converter had a special sealing ring, I had to have a special exhaust gasket made to match my cool 3-bolt flange. Luckily I work across the street from a place that makes specialty gaskets for all industries and they were able to convert my CAD file into a gasket in about 2 minutes.
I used an 8" long stainless steel flex to alleviate vibrations and a Vibrant 3" x 18" stainless resonator and Magnaflow straight through muffler. It took about 3 hours to cut and fit the pieces, than another 2 hours of finish welding with a TIG welder.
The tricky part came when I had to pass the exhaust through the rear cross member. My hole was not big enough for a 3" pipe, so I decided to step the size down to 2-3/4". Woolf Aircraft had 2-3/4" bends in stock. The size stepped back up into the 3" Magnaflow muffler. I used stainless steel V-band clamps to make the exhaust easily removable, and adjustable.
The result is fairy loud with a rasp above 4,000 RPM. I may try a more restrictive (and quieter) muffler in the future, and keep the Magnaflow, so I can swap out the muffler whenever I want, since it attaches to the pipe with a V-band clamp.
Ground clearance is about as good as it gets with 3" piping.
Page 9 - Driving Again!