Installation Tips
INSULATION:
The shiny bubble wrap insulation doesn’t put stickers in your hands, or absorb water. It’s easy to cut to shape with scissors, and is available at many hardware stores. I like to use 2 layers. The fibreglass insulation absorbs water and promotes rust. Sprayfoam insulation has also been associated with rust.
You can use spray adhesive in a can to stick the bubblewrap to the bus before putting the panels in place, if you like. The label on the spray glue says, "Wait till aggressively tacky."
KICK PANELS:
The kick panels slide into a groove on the front floor. Make sure that channel is clean of dirt, dust bunnies, old fuses and whatever else has fallen in there. Drill holes with a tiny drill bit to make it easier to screw the panel in place. Don't over tighten the screws, just snug them down.
FRONT DOOR PANELS:
The splitty front doors are designed so that rain on the windows drains through the doors, so install a vapour barrier first. This means a sheet of heavy plastic cut roughly to the shape of the door but smaller. I have used duct tape to attach the plastic to the door, and I tuck the bottom of the plastic into the door. Otherwise the water gets on the panels which can warp and get funky.
Before installing the door panels is a good time to remove your door mechanism, clean and re-grease them, and do any rust treatment to the inside of the door. Also lube the door holder opener mechanism on push button doors. Do not use any sort of insulation on the front doors that might hold water. Some people paint the inside of the front doors with roofing tar as a rust preventative and vibration absorber.
Attach the panel with the door handle first. It goes . . . spring or foam pad, then door panel, then the plastic escutcheon, then the handle. Now attach the panel to the door either with screws or the snap clips as the case may be.
CAB ROOF PANELS:
Make sure the channels in front and on the side of the overhead air vents are clear of detritus and not mushed closed anywhere. Check out the outer edge of the bus, and find the channel where the panel goes. I find that sliding the panel in about halfway with the front at a tilt to the outside helps keep it in the channel.
Use one hand to push UP in the middle of the panel, while pushing the panel forward with the other hand. At a certain point it helps to straighten the panel out, and have one person tap the panel forward while another person pushes up in the center of the panel to do the pre-bend and makes sure the panel goes in the channel. When tapping the panel forward, use a 2x4 to spread the impact and so avoid denting the panel. The pre-bender may see if the panel needs to be tapped more to one side or the other. After it’s in place, screw the rear edge in place or use a trim strip and screw that in place.
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