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I USED STEEL VALVE COVERS AND AM EXPERIENCING SOME OIL SEEPAGE.
If you plan to use stamped steel valve covers with this adapter kit please review Special Instructions For Steel Valve Covers. These instructions have been carefully prepared. Following them should eliminate all oil seepage.
THE KIT WORKS GREAT BUT I REALLY DON'T LIKE THE LOOK OF PLAIN NUTS TO HOLD THE VALVE COVERS IN PLACE.
I highly recommend the use of short valve cover nuts such as Ford Motorsports Part #M 6680A which, I understand, have been recently discontinued. A good alternate source for similar nuts is:
White Performance
3349 E. Stone Drive
Kingsport, TN 37660
1-877- 288-3881
Their price is quite reasonable compared to Ford Motorsports. Just ask for their Small Block Ford Mini Nut Kit #200.
WHERE CAN I GET THE VALVE COVER GASKETS YOU RECOMMEND?
A source for excellent FE valve cover gaskets in 3 different thicknesses is:
DSC Motorsports
59748 Reynolds Way
Anza, CA 92539
Phone (951) 763-9765 Fax (951) 763-9781
Their extra thick (5/16") gaskets are highly recommended when using stamped steel valve covers with this kit. These extra thick gaskets eliminate any interference between the adapter plate and the gasket lip on the steel valve covers.
I AM USING THE CAST ALUMINUM FE VALVE COVERS. HOW DO I ADD OIL TO THE ENGINE?
On the left cover (driver's side) I decided to use a nifty twist-in oil filler tube (part #EG-381) from Virginia Classic Mustang. I thought this tube would make it easier to add oil without dripping all over. This tube uses a Ford Motorsports push-on breather also from Virginia Classic Mustang (EG-382) similar to the smallblock oil filler setup. This setup costs a few bucks but it works much better than having to aim oil at the grommet hole.
I AM USING STAMPED STEEL VALVE COVERS. HOW DO I ADD OIL TO THE ENGINE?
This isn't a major problem although it is a little more involved than with the cast aluminum covers. Assuming that you are using covers with PCV and breather holes, a breather in one cover and a PCV Valve in the other, I recommend carefully pulling the PCV Valve out of the grommet and using a small funnel to add oil.
I AM USING STAMPED STEEL VALVE COVERS WITH THE BREATHER HOLES BUT THE ENGINE SEEMS TO BE SUCKING OIL VIA THE PCV VALVE.
The stamped steel valve covers I have seen usually come without baffles installed to keep oil away from the breather and PCV Valve. This is an easy fix with a little ingenuity. The solution is to make yourself a pair of oil baffles. Follow the article I posted on my Cobra Build Page #5 in the middle of the page.
I HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING BUT STILL SEEM TO BE GETTING OIL LEAKING OR SEEPAGE FROM THE LOWER REAR OF THE ADAPTER PLATE.
OK, here are several things to look at. The lower rear of the adapter plate is the most common location for leaks or seepage because of the rear tilt of the motor (power angle). If you installed the adapters carefully following the instructions there should be no leak or seepage. Answer the following questions: Did you check to be sure that the adapter plate was drawn down snugly against the rubber/steel gasket supplied in the kit? Did you use the correct type of silicone sealer around the adapter mounting screws when mounting the plates? Did you torque the screws evenly to 10 lb/ft? Are you sure you had a perfectly clean gasket surface on the cylinder head to start with? If you are using stamped steel FE valve covers, is there any interference between the outer lip on the valve cover and the edge of the adapter plate?
I HAVE TO REMOVE THE ADAPTER PLATES FROM MY ENGINE. HOW DO I REMOVE ALL THE SILICONE SEALER RESIDUE FROM THE ADAPTER PLATES AND HARDWARE?
This can be done but there is going to be some work involved. Soaking the adapter plates overnight in some premium grade gasoline will usually soften the silicone enough to facilitate removal with some 3-0 steel wool or a Brillo pad. Another excellent option is to use Permatex Spray Gasket Remover. This product works faster than gasoline. Be sure to wear vinyl or nitrile gloves when using these products.
