Tom's Mountaineering Adventures


All text and photos on these pages copyright Thomas Breit, except as specifically noted.

I’ve been climbing for a few years now; I first put on a pair of crampons in 1989. I've never gotten to be quite the hardcore climber I sometimes daydream myself being, but I have fun, and (like everyone) I don’t get out quite as much as I’d like, but enough to enjoy myself. This stuff is up here mostly to share information with others. I’ve gotten a lot of useful route hints and ideas from others' web pages, and this is an attempt to give back a bit.

Many of these are fairly easy climbs (Tinkham Peak could be done by any gradeschooler in decent shape) and some of these appear in hiking books rather than just in Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide or Nelson's books, but they were fun, and I did 'em, and if I were to limit this list to "real" climbs, it wouldn't be very long. (I haven't included every hike up Tiger Mountain or Mt. Si, because stuff like that doesn't need much commentary, I don't expect. Except, if you think you want to hike up Mt. Si, do McClellan Butte instead. It's got 10% of the people, it's a nicer trail, and a more interesting outing. And more water available high up, if you're bringing your dog along.)

Disclaimer and warning
The activities described on this web site are potentially dangerous. Rock climbing and mountaineering involve unavoidable risks including the risk of serious bodily injury and death. All forms of wilderness recreation have a higher level of risk than many ordinary activities. Although some of this information is intended to assist climbers in locating and following climbing routes, it is neither represented nor guaranteed to be accurate or complete.
Mountain conditions change from day to day and season to season, rendering any information subject to change without warning. Do not trust your personal safety to any information presented here.
Climbing safely depends on your own good judgment, based on experience and a realistic assessment of your climbing ability, weather, and route conditions. However, given all of the potential hazards of mountain travel, safety can not be guaranteed even in the exercise of perfect judgment. Those lacking climbing experience should seek professional help, and hire a guide or enroll in a climbing instruction course before venturing into the mountains on their own. The owner and publisher of this web site do not assume any responsibility or liability for your safety. Those who use this information, and those who venture onto mountainous terrain, do so at their own risk.

A lot has been made of the Ten Essentials pro and con (maybe there's 12? Do cell phones count? etc.) To my mind, the first of the essentials when getting into climbing, is to get and read several recent back issues of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. They're available from public libraries, so you can't plead poverty. Some routes, notably Liberty Ridge, may sound routine and pleasant in my account, but they can - and do - kill. With depressing frequency. It's not macho to brave a "killer route" it's stupid to go up there without a full awareness of the risks, and being prepared for them.

Ratings
I use Smoke Blanchard's rating system, since it fits remarkably well with the sorts of climbs I do:
(1) Point - one duff, i.e., you can sit in a car or a ski lift and ride to the summit.
(2) points - two feet
(3) points - two feet plus one hand, or ice axe
(4) points - two feet plus two hands
(5) points - two feet, two hands, and climbing protection.

Now, on with the route reports, arranged according to which edition of Cascade Alpine Guide they'd be found in. Current year's reports are in red.


-Columbia River to Stevens Pass-
Mount St. Helens 1997 (2)

Mount Adams, Adams Glacier 2001 (3)

Tatoosh Traverse 2008, (3,4,5)

Mt. Rainier

  • Emmons Glacier Attempt 1993 (3)
  • Disappointment Cleaver 1994 (3)
  • Fuhrer Finger 1996 (3)
  • Disappointment Cleaver 200 2(3)
  • Liberty Ridge 2003 (3)
  • Gibraltar Ledges 2004 (3)
  • Gibraltar Ledges 2005 (4)
  • Kautz Glacier 2007 (5)
  • Various Hikes to Camp Muir(2)

    Snoqualmie Pass Area:

  • Mailbox Peak 2003 (2)
  • Granite Mountain 2002 (3)
  • Silver Peak (2)
  • Tinkham Peak 2001 (2)
  • Chair Peak 2001 (4)
  • The Tooth 2005 (5)
  • The Tooth, solo 2009 (5)
  • Guye Peak, South Rib 2003 (4)
  • Kaleetan Peak 1995 (4)
  • Snoqualmie Peak (3)
  • Red Mountain 1997 (3)
  • Alpental Ice Climbing 2005 (WI2-4)
  • Thompson Peak 2002 (5)
  • Roosevelt Peak 2003 (3)

    Mount Daniel 1999 (4)

    Castle Peak, Midway 2007 (5)

    Colchuck Peak

  • NE Couloir Attempt 2001 (3)
  • Colchuck Glacier 2002 (3)
  • North Buttress Couloir 2004 (3)
  • North Buttress, plus Dragontail 2009 (3,4,5)
  • Dragontail Peak, Serpentine Arete 2009 (5)

    Cashmere Mountain, west ridge 2005 (4)

    Cannon Mountain, NW ridge attempt 2006 (3)

    Peshastin Pinacles rock climbing 2009 (5)

    Mount Stuart, Cascadia Couloir 1995 (4)
    Mount Stuart, North Ridge 2005 (5)
    Mount Stuart, West Ridge 2007 (5)

    Ingalls Peak 2004 (5)

  • -Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass-
  • Mt. Erie rock climbing 2006 (5)
  • Mt. Erie rock climbing 2009 (5)
  • Mt. Baring 2004 (3)

    Mount Pilchuck (3)

  • Pilchuck #1
  • April 2001
  • June 2002

    Big 4
  • Dry Gulch Winter Climb 1995 (3)
  • North Rib Attempt 2001 (5)

    Three Fingers 1994 (2)

    Vesper Peak

  • Vesper Peak, 1995 (2)
  • Vesper Peak October, 2004 (2)
  • Vesper Peak, North Face 2006 (5)
  • Vesper Peak July, 2007 (2)
  • Vesper Peak August, 2009 (2)

    Del Campo Peak 2003 (4)

    Sloan Peak 1995 (4)

    Mount Pugh

  • April 1998 (3)
  • May 2000 (3)
  • September 2000 (3)

    Glacier Peak 1997 (3)

    White Chuck Peak 2004 (3)

    Mount Dickerman, N. Face 1995 (4)

    Forgotten Peak 1996 (3)

    Cadet Peak 2008 (3)

    Monte Cristo Peak 2008 (3)

    Whitehorse Peak

  • February 1995 (3)
  • May 1997 (3)
  • attempt Feb 2003 (3)
  • attempt April 2003 (3)

    Sahali Peak 2000 (3)

    Mixup Peak July, 2006 (4/5)

    Sharkfin Tower 2002 (5)

    Forbidden Peak 2003 (5)

    Eldorado Peak 2000 (3)

    Black Peak 2004 (4/5)

  • -North Cascades-
    Yellow Astor Butte 2003 (2)

    Tomyhoi Peak 2004 (3)

    Mount Baker:

  • First Climb 1989 (3)
  • Coleman Glacier 1998 (3)
  • Coleman Glacier 2003 (3)
  • North Ridge 2004 (5)

    North Twin 2002 (4)

    Mount Shuksan:

  • Sulphide Glacier Attempts (3)
  • Fisher Chimneys 1996 (4)

    Silver Star Peak 2007 (3)
    South Early Winters Spire 2003 (3)

    Cutthroat Peak, West ridge 2006 (5)

    Liberty Bell, Beckey Route 2006 (5)


    -Other-
    The Brothers 1995 (2)

    Mount Hood:

  • South Side, Old Chute 1998 (3)
  • Wy-East 1999 (3)
  • South Side Attempt (3)
  • Leuthold Couloir 2001 (3)
  • South Side 2002 (3)

    Mt. Thielsen 2003 (4)

    Mt Shasta:

  • Clear Creek Route 2003 (3)
  • Avalanche Gulch 2004 (3)

  • Rock climbing, Devil's Lake, Wisconsin, 2007 (5)


  • My Climbs wish list

    Recommended Reading

    Every website needs links.

    Opinions

  • Reflections on solo climbing

  • Dogs on Glaciers

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    Wanna read what others said?

    When was the last time you encountered the sacred? The last time that your soul trembled with the indubitable awareness that it was being flooded with a numinous presence? Whatever the sacred is, it is unquestionably the most fascinating experience of our lives. It draws us almost against our will. We continue to seek it out as the moth does the flame.

    --Willi Unsoeld,
    who did the first traverse of Everest (the west ridge ascent)
    and ultimately died on Mount Rainier