All text and photos on these pages copyright Thomas Breit, except as specifically noted.
I’ve been climbing for a few years now; I first put on a pair of crampons in 1989. I've never gotten to be quite the hardcore climber I sometimes daydream myself being, but I have fun, and (like everyone) I don’t get out quite as much as I’d like, but enough to enjoy myself. This stuff is up here mostly to share information with others. I’ve gotten a lot of useful route hints and ideas from others' web pages, and this is an attempt to give back a bit.
Many of these are fairly easy climbs (Tinkham Peak could be done by any gradeschooler in decent shape) and some of these appear in hiking books rather than just in Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide or Nelson's books, but they were fun, and I did 'em, and if I were to limit this list to "real" climbs, it wouldn't be very long. (I haven't included every hike up Tiger Mountain or Mt. Si, because stuff like that doesn't need much commentary, I don't expect. Except, if you think you want to hike up Mt. Si, do McClellan Butte instead. It's got 10% of the people, it's a nicer trail, and a more interesting outing. And more water available high up, if you're bringing your dog along.)
Disclaimer and warning A lot has been made of the Ten Essentials pro and con (maybe there's 12? Do cell phones count? etc.) To my mind, the first of the essentials when getting into climbing, is to get and read several recent back issues of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. They're available from public libraries, so you can't plead poverty. Some routes, notably Liberty Ridge, may sound routine and pleasant in my account, but they can - and do - kill. With depressing frequency. It's not macho to brave a "killer route" it's stupid to go up there without a full awareness of the risks, and being prepared for them.
The activities described on this web site are potentially dangerous. Rock climbing and mountaineering involve unavoidable risks including the risk of serious bodily injury and death. All forms of wilderness recreation have a higher level of risk than many ordinary activities. Although some of this information is intended to assist climbers in locating and following climbing routes, it is neither represented nor guaranteed to be accurate or complete.
Mountain conditions change from day to day and season to season, rendering any information subject to change without warning. Do not trust your personal safety to any information presented here.
Climbing safely depends on your own good judgment, based on experience and a realistic assessment of your climbing ability, weather, and route conditions. However, given all of the potential hazards of mountain travel, safety can not be guaranteed even in the exercise of perfect judgment. Those lacking climbing experience should seek professional help, and hire a guide or enroll in a climbing instruction course before venturing into the mountains on their own. The owner and publisher of this web site do not assume any responsibility or liability for your safety. Those who use this information, and those who venture onto mountainous terrain, do so at their own risk.
Ratings
I use Smoke Blanchard's rating system, since it fits remarkably well with the sorts of climbs I do:
(1) Point - one duff, i.e., you can sit in a car or a ski lift and ride to the summit.
(2) points - two feet
(3) points - two feet plus one hand, or ice axe
(4) points - two feet plus two hands
(5) points - two feet, two hands, and climbing protection.
Now, on with the route reports, arranged according to which edition of Cascade Alpine Guide they'd be found in. Current year's reports are in red.
Every website needs links.
Opinions
When was the last time you encountered the sacred? The last time that your soul trembled with the indubitable awareness that it was being flooded with a numinous presence? Whatever the sacred is, it is unquestionably the most fascinating experience of our lives. It draws us almost against our will. We continue to seek it out as the moth does the flame.
--Willi Unsoeld,
who did the first traverse of Everest (the west ridge ascent)
and ultimately died on Mount Rainier