These rules are a very quick, simplified version of The Sword & the Flame which I use during campaigns. The idea for the semi-circular battle mat was inspired by the excellent Zulu War board game published in Battleplan magazine, designed by Erich Faust.

In the course of a campaign, battles often occur on the strategic map that are either very small, very remote, or just not very important. They don't merit a full tabletop treatment, but at the same time you might not want to arbitrarily choose a winner and loser. That's where these rules come in.

The game is played using miniatures or counters and an abstracted, stylized map.

Scale: TS&TF units are scaled down by a factor of four. That is, a 20-figure unit has 5 figures, a 12-figure unit has 3 figures, and a 4-figure (artillery) unit has 1 gun. One of those figures can be an officer, but it really doesn't matter; you will keep track of officer casualties on paper or in your head anyway.

The Board: Instead of setting up tabletop terrain, the battle is played on a game board. You can make one from a standard sheet of paper, but something a little larger works better. The illustration shows how to lay out the board.

Setting Up: Defenders deploy in the innermost ring, attackers deploy in the outermost area beyond cannon range. The defending force must be divided between the center and the two wing zones. Defending units can be split across these three zones however the defender wants. The attacking force is deployed similarly but units cannot be split across the right, left, and center zones. Attacking units must be spread as evenly as possible.

Moving: The attackers can advance or retreat one range band each turn. They can also sit still if they want. One defending figure can shift out of each zone and into an adjacent zone per turn. If all defenders are wiped out from a zone, one attacking unit per turn can shift to an adjacent zone, but it also must back up one range band. If the attacking unit has already penetrated defensive works, it doesn't need to do so again.

Shooting: After the attackers advance, the defenders shoot. If the attackers have firearms, they can shoot back. Defenders only get to shoot at attackers in the same zone (left, right, center), and vice versa. The defenders always get to shoot first (if you want, you can use the TS&TF card-draw sequence).

Each type of weapon can fire to its maximum range and any lesser range. So, for example, cannons can fire to cannon range, MG range, rifle range, and melee range, while rifles can fire to rifle range and melee range. Spears can be thrown only at melee range.

Firing is resolved exactly the same as in the standard TS&TF game, with two exceptions. First, each figure is allowed to roll two dice when firing or throwing spears (guns roll six dice). Second, one figure is removed for each odd-numbered hit; that is, a figure is removed at one hit, a second is removed for the third hit, a third is removed for the fifth hit, and so on. You can either flip casualty cards as in TS&TF, or simply remove all figures that are hit and assume half are dead or incapacitated and half will recover.

Hand-to-Hand Fighting: HtH fighting is resolved with no modifications, one die per figure. Figures only fight enemy figures in the same zone and at melee range. A figure that runs away is removed from the battle. Remember to account for defensive works, if the defender has any (represented on the diagram by the line between rifle range and melee range). In many cases, these force the attacker to spend an extra turn at rifle range before moving into melee range, besides giving the defender a bonus in melee.

Morale: A unit starts making critical morale checks when it is reduced to half strength or less (two infantry figures, one cavalry figure). A unit is removed from the battle if it fails a critical or shaken morale check. Failing a pinned morale check keeps the unit pinned.

Squares: This display works perfectly well for British units defending in square. If it bothers you that there are only three zones, just draw a new display on a full circle and divide it into four zones.

Counterattacks: When the British attack an entrenched enemy, they sometimes have a significant artillery advantage. This allows them to sit at a safe distance and shell the defenders into ruin. If the defenders want, they can counterattack by advancing one range band per turn, the same as if they were attackers. Just remember the relative ranges of the weapons (artillery=4 bands, MGs=3, rifles=2, spear and bayonet=1) and you should have no problems.

Ambushes: Some situations call for the attacker to ambush the defender. In these cases, start the attackers at a closer range band--probably rifle range, possibly even melee range.

Fighting Withdrawals and Rearguards: If the defender has the room and inclination to fall back, try experimenting with a game board using rectangular range bands rather than concentric. Start the defenders with several open range bands behind them to fall back into. Upon reaching the last range band, they can either be forced to stand and fight (no more room to retreat) or they may slip away to safety. I suggest rolling a die before each defending unit tries to move; allow it to move only on a 1d6 roll of 1-4 in clear terrain, 1-2 in rough terrain. Otherwise, the attackers will never catch them.

Screening Fire: A friendly unit that is between you and the enemy and in the same zone blocks all fire.

Scaling Up: Don't feel constrained to the 4:1 figure ratio used here. You can just as easily play with 6, 8, 10, 12, or even standard 20-figure units. Experiment and find a figure ratio that feels comfortable. 4:1 works particularly well because all standard TS&TF unit sizes are divisible by 4.

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