After all the work to position the canopy skin within and even 0.025" from the aft edge of the forward deck skin, I came to the realization that no further adjustment was going get the canopy skin lower in the two places just outboard to the forward deck ribs where it sat about a 1/16" higher than the forward deck skin.  (See picture.)  It seemed to me that the radius of the forward canopy frame ribs was smaller than that of the aft deck bulkhead in the same area, and the canopy frame ribs were not likely to be reshaped with the tools I could muster.  Ken at Van's listened patiently while I explained my dilemma, and said that I need to shim the lower skin up to meet he higher skin.  I could also file/belt sand a little off of the canopy frame ribs in the area where its skin is too "low".  I'll probably do a little of that and then reset everything and then take the clecoes out of the forward deck skin in the areas affected and fit shims by trying various thicknesses of shim stock at each rivet position until I get what I need to raise the forward deck up to meet the canopy skin in a smooth rise and fall. 

If you cut the notches in the bearing block where the bell crank pivots, I'd suggest you also round the two corners where the push-pull tube swings by.  If you don't you will find out why you should have.  Also, sand a little ramp on the pin return side.  Again, you'll see why you should have if you bolt the bell crank on and then work the mechanism through it's range of motion.

Other BIG HAPPY NEWS is that I ordered a Hartzell C/S prop for the bird from Van's.  Connie and I will take a road trip to Piqua, Ohio (195 miles) before Christmas to pick it up.  I also ordered my firewall forward kit from Van's.  Don't know when I'll order the engine from AeroSport - still worried about my job. 

The oak guide for the 4 degree offset back rivet set I said I was going to try in my 6/2 status below did not work out.  There is no way I can use that set and get the tails to not cleat.  I've given up on it.

The June 'progress' picture shows part of the wing spar carry through bulkhead.  As you can see the exposed parts are already painted with the Zolatone 'desert camoflague' speckled paint I'm using.  I explained my rational for painting the cockpit before riveting below on the 5/1 note, but with more experience behind me I don't think I could have gotten a good pattern painting the riveted cockpit because of the confined space and the need for that last coat at 24"-36".  That's Zolatone's recommended technique and it is what works.

You can also see that in this months picture that I've riveted my F-704K "upright cap strip" with AN470AD4 rivets instead of pop rivets.  The effect of doing this will be that the 4 AN426AD3 rivets for the F-421B "aft canopy deck" in this area will have to be pop rivets instead.  Aesthetically, I think it'd be easier to hide their existence than the 40 rivets on the upright cap strip (20 facing you). 

I think I'm going to paint my cockpit in the paint booth instead of once it is all riveted together.  I think I can do a better job that way - less contortions.  I'm going to use Zolatone's (http://www.zolatoneaim.com/) Desert Camo.  If need be I can touch up at Van's  recommended painting point - supposed to be one of the benefits of Zolatone.  Since I do not want (or even like) the weight/effort/looks of an upholstered interior, I think the Zolatone will give me a nice visual texture.  

I think I've solved my primer problem.  Since I'm doing things by the Dupont 'book', what I've reasoned out is that the HVLP paint system puts out REALLY HOT air, especially after the turbine's been going a while.  I haven't thinned the mixture any so I suspect that it may be "curing" before it gets on the surface and has a chance to "flow out". Next batch of primer, I'll thin it with some Dupont lacquer thinner and shoot a test piece as well as the parts I've got to prime.  After the primer cures, I'll cross hatch the test piece with a razor and do the old masking tape overnight trick to see what pulls up.  But I think some thinner will cure my hot turbine blues.

My method of operation right now is to get all the parts that I need to prime COMPLETELY final drilled, deburred, and dimpled/countersunk.  Even if thinning solves my primer adhesion problem, I loath the idea of drilling and dimpling parts after they've been primed.

Shown is the left inside of the fuselage.  You can see the black chrome-moly tube that is part of the step appropriate to tri-geared aircraft.  The conical bend is done. 

Do be careful that you cut your notches and slots at the aft end of the longeron for a left and right.  I had already marked my cut lines with a marker pen before I realized I marked the second one the same as the first!

I had this notion that since every other "modern" engine these days is fuel injected and has been for some years now, that my airplane engine should be the same way.  But, in the end, I am bothered by the operating restrictions on constant speed props posed by the O-360 and I can't justify the expense for the IO-360-M1B - $6,000 for fuel injection just doesn't makes sense to me.  Van doesn't sell an IO-320, but tells me I can make it work if I do blah, and blah, and find and swap out a blah from a 360.  No thanks.  I'm building a "standard" kit because that fulfills my sense of "building" an airplane, but other than that I want packages to come from Van's that fit and work with the kit I'm building.  I'm getting ready to order my finish kit.  I noticed the lead time is up to ~17 weeks because of the surge of builders getting to that point and I'd like to make sure I can continue working when I've get the fuselage done.  To order the finishing kit you need to make a decision about your engine.  And so I have.  I'll end up buying a new O-320-D1A from Van's with a Unison ignition system, a Van's Firewall Forward kit, and a 2-blade MT constant speed prop, which as fate would have it pretty much eats up the $$$ I've got available in a CD for the plane.  So, the avionics, etc. are going to have to be scrounged for via other sources.

The middle picture shows the routing of the plumbing through the bell crank bay.  See Tips & Mistakes for more.  The bottom line here is that I wanted to make sure that no plumbing could interfere with the operation of the aileron bell crank.  The only cable shown that is not clamped in this bay is the RG-400U COM antenna cable at the bottom of the picture.  Not only is it well clear of the bell crank, but as you'll see on the Tip page, this cable and all others will be secured at both the inboard and outboard main ribs with MS21919 clamps.  Next chapter meeting, I've got to find out if I'm overdoing the torque seal.  I think not, seems to me to be a quick part of the annual inspection to make sure everything is OK.

Because I plumbed the pitot/static tubing right between the support brackets for the bell crank and wanted to make sure they stayed out of the way, I decided (after the top mains and leading edge was riveted on, that I wanted to secure them with MS21919 clamps.  I had already taken the fuel tank off once when I realized that because of my ASSumption about the bell crank travel I had to reroute some plumbing and wanted to use the bolts that secure the wing tie down bracket to also secure some MS21919 clamps, and with the fuel tank on - couldn't get at them!   I wanted access flexibility without taking the fuel tank off, which meant nut plates.  Putting them on the tie down bracket was not a problem because I could take it out (after I took that tank off!)  But the MS21919's for the static/pitot was not so accessible.

One last thing - I will be using 1/2" 8x32 stainless steel allen head screws with some thin AN washers to attach the T-408 to the rib.  I picked this advise up from the web: "I had an EAA Tech Counselor inspection done this weekend by Gary Sobek. One thing he recommended was not using Van's phillips head screws in the fuel tank access cover, but rather getting some Allen head (i.e., hex key) 8-32 half inch machine screws for that cover. Reason is that after you have mounted the wings, there is only about 3 inches of space to get a tool in there to remove those screws, and Pro Sealed phillips head screws will likely strip out when you try to turn them from the side without much leverage. I swapped out the screws this evening with Allen head screws generously dabbed with ProSeal. Looks like it will work well, as a standard Allen wrench with a 90 degree bend will get a good bite on those screw heads." 

For all of it's negative qualities, Chem Seal (what Van's now ships) does mix very quickly.  The sealer is white and the activator is black and it does not take long at all before you obtain a uniform dark gray.  I was worried that it would stay streaked and require lot's of mixing, but that's not the case.  When it's cold, I turn the thermostat up to about 60 degrees to work.  That's the case now, and it seems that after about 90 minutes to tank sealant starts to get stiffer.  I'm not sure at what point the 'pot life' is over since it takes days to cure and remains 'soft' for a long time according to Van's.  They say to be patient.  But after about 90 minutes, it gets noticeably less gooey.  It'll be interesting to see how long it takes to get 'less gooey', if we get some warmer weather before I finish the tanks.