Shared Drain Outlet
       

Battery Frame
Battery Box
Carpet Tube
Folding Shelf Units
Rock Dent Guard
Fuse Box
In Line Fuse Holder
Power Plug 12-Volt
Volt Meter
Plug-Ceiling Light
Shared Drain Outlet
Vibration Dampening Pad
Accumulator
Fire Extinguisher Insert Box
Bubble Levels
Sway Bar
Spring Bars
Vent Cover
Dinette/Bed Conversion
Table Leg Brackets
Smoke Detector
Frame Support
Space Station
Hanging Door
H.W.H. Wind Guard
Shower Hose
Sand Pads
Ref. Shelf Mod.
Ref. Thermostat
Ref. Ext. Fan
Ref. Int. Fan
Single Axle Locking Chocks

Why would trailer manufactures have separate drain locations for sink and shower drains? Why would trailer manufactures put the sink drain on the door side of the trailer? etc. etc. These questions plagued me until I made the decision to do something about it.... create a "shared drain outlet", on the street / back side area next to the power and water inlets.

Drawing_drain_system.jpg (139318 bytes)

On the second day of our first outing, the decision to try out our new shower was met with questions about where would the water come out? After climbing around underneath the trailer I found the outlet centered approximately between door and street side...very inconvenient. I already knew our sink drain water exited on the door side, opposite side to where "full utility" camp sites place sewer inlets...also very inconvenient. The drawing to the left shows how I created a "shared drain outlet". Colors are used to point out different aspects of the system's design. (click on the drawing to bring up a larger image) 

This view shows the drain outlet in it's lowered position. The 1¼" ABS pipe sections that come together and meet at the drain outlet, are on "pivot joints", this functions to allow the merged section to be lowered for efficient drainage. When preparing for travel, the rear section is raised and secured. 

What is seen on the left, is smaller tubing from the sink, leading to a couple brackets, adaptor fittings, and finally a flexible rubber "pivot joint". The rubber connector or pivot joint is meant to connect two 1¼" pipes end to end with hose clamps. The flexible nature of the rubber connector makes it ideal for the use I've created with it ... a flexing "pivot point". 

I placed a "u-bolt" around the pipe next to the drain outlet, with a short pair of plates attached to it. Then I attached a ~ 8" long section of 3/8" all-thread  to the center of the top plate, that reaches up and thru the support bracket. The all-thread has a hole drilled in it to except a "hinge pin clip"; this sits atop the bracket to secure it in the raised position.

This is the same view as the photo above, only with the drain in the lowered position. You'll note that the drain utilizes a standard garden hose type connector with a cap secured by a plastic lanyard. If your wondering if the size of the hose connector is large enough to allow free flow of water... yes it is. The "trick" or "key" to good water flow in this system is elsewhere. My system utilizes an air vent up in the front end.

The view to the right in the raised position, gives you a idea of what the system looks like from the rear. You'll notice that one of the "pivot points" lie directly below the axle, this attaching location, below the axle, works like a bracket to stabilize the stationary ABS pipe section, toward the front. 

This, yet another view, is of the same angle as the picture above; only shown with the shared drainage system in the lowered position

I, like so many other people, use a 10 gallon "Tote-Tank" by "Barker".

I also use a "tank bobber gauge". It eliminates potential messes from tank overflows. The tank bobber gauge's red-tip alerts you when your tank is almost full. It attaches in seconds to the 3/4" male garden hose opening present on all size "Tote-Tanks".

(photo from Camping World's web site)

This project had way more time invested into it that I'd originally would of thought. I bought way more fittings than I needed, only to return them later. It seams when you've planned everything out, it only guaranties you'll be going back for something. 

Supplies for this mod. cost ~$50 It took a few different attempts before it all came together, but.... that's the way these things go. I believe I've said this before.


If you have any questions, or comments about anything,
 please feel free to e-mail me ..
"CLICK HERE"