Single Axle Locking Chocks
       

Battery Frame
Battery Box
Carpet Tube
Folding Shelf Units
Rock Dent Guard
Fuse Box
In Line Fuse Holder
Power Plug 12-Volt
Volt Meter
Plug-Ceiling Light
Shared Drain Outlet
Vibration Dampening Pad
Accumulator
Fire Extinguisher Insert Box
Bubble Levels
Sway Bar
Spring Bars
Vent Cover
Dinette/Bed Conversion
Table Leg Brackets
Smoke Detector
Frame Support
Space Station
Hanging Door
H.W.H. Wind Guard
Shower Hose
Sand Pads
Ref. Shelf Mod.
Ref. Thermostat
Ref. Ext. Fan
Ref. Int. Fan
Single Axle Locking Chocks

Have you ever "set" your wheel chocks only to find later that one or more had moved? It also doesn't help that the plastic jobbers sold by most RV-parts places don't even come close to matching the shape of your tire. This modification addresses the problem, and adds one or two improvements to make this "locking-wheel-chock" a long awaited improvement.

There is "no way" this tire is going anywhere with this contraption on it.

Well, I built a pair of "single axle locking chocks". The concept came to me slowly but once I've figured out how to make an adjustable unit it went together rather well.

This picture shows the mismatch of wheel chock to tire diameter. How is this suppose to prevent movement when the tire is only being supported at the base.

I matched the contour of my tire by taking a piece of cardboard and trimming it with scissors while laying on the garage floor. I then used the profile of the cardboard to trace onto the wood where I wanted to cutout the matched tire shape. 



As for the design....  chock #1 (made of Oak) has an I-bolt on the inside edge. There is a cable attached to the I-bolt that travels from one chock to the other chock on the inside edge of the wheel. The cable continues by wrapping around the second chock (within a curved valley) then back toward the initial chock. The second chock acts as a "pulley". Before the cable reaches the first chock, (opposite side of the tire from which it started) a short section of chain is added to the end of the cable. A "toggle clamp" is mounted to the first chock. The clamp reaches out to hook onto a link of chain then the clamp is actuated and the two chocks are pulled towards each other . The chain section is an adjustable means to use this device on a variety of tire diameters and uneven ground contours.

 The Hook Style Toggle Clamp pictured here is similar to the clamps I use on fixtures at work. These clamps are adjustable, rigid, and extremely dependable. 

Features integrated into chocks:

Nonskid pads -on tire contact areas and on bottom surfaces.

Handle straps w/grommets -to make it easy to pick chocks up.

Matched radius contour of chock to tire.

Protective coating on wood -heavy duty oil & urethane (three coats)

Hook Style Toggle Clamp -a locking clamp that pulls the chocks together "tight" when actuated.

Cable, 3/32" plastic coated -strong enough to pull as hard as I need to.

Chain, galvanized-one foot of chain that allows multiple hook placement for easy adjustment.

Hardwood construction, each chock was made by laminating 5-each 3/4" thick pieces of Oak, then the glued wood blocks were machined into shape.

Click on any of the three pictures below for a larger view

Chocks_Setup_3.jpg (56481 bytes) Strap_closeup.jpg (58217 bytes) Single_Chock_4.jpg (49801 bytes) 

I finally purchased the "BAL single axle trailer leveler" from "JC Whitney". While online I noticed BAL also had an aluminum single axle trailer tire locking chock. It seamed like a light bulb went on when I realized just how well something like that could work. Rather than purchasing the chock set, I decided to build my own. It may be on the heavy side, and could have been made with cheaper materials, but sometimes it's more important to build a better mouse-trap.

This mod really is a bad example when it comes to costs. I built this mod with a blind eye to supply cost and focused on function.... sorry.

The Oak board cost ~$40-
Strapping or webbing (robbed my wife's sewing supplies) ~$0-
Grommet Kit w/~40 grommets ~$7-
Hook Style Toggle Clamp ~$9-
Cable, 3/32" plastic coated ~$2-
"I" Bolt ~.30¢
Farrell (cable crimp) 2ea. ~.50¢
"ARM-R-SEAL" (oil & urethane top coat) ~$10- per pint
Sand paper (2ea. sheets) ~$2-
Nonskid pads (3 ft.) ~$4-
All screws came from a "Tupperware" container I've had forever ~$ "Priceless"


If you have any questions, or comments about anything,
 please feel free to e-mail me ..
"CLICK HERE"