Porcini Veloute

This is only a fancy name for cream of dried mushroom soup, but that’s one way restaurants distract you from the fact that the difference between your version and theirs is a lot of cream and butter.

I was served the inspiration for this at Manka’s in Inverness CA, by the chef, himself. It was served in a custard cup with a very thin slice of dried porcini cap on top, which was toasted with a light coating of butter, I believe. A most delightful treat, with which I became obsessed immediately. My mind didn’t rest until I had tried my best to recreate that bit of heaven.

Here’s my take on it.
2 oz. dried porcini mushrooms

3/4 c madiera wine

1 1/2 c chicken stock ( 2 cans, split, above and below)

4 T butter

1 sm. onion, minced

2/3 # fresh button mushrooms, sliced thinly

4 T flour

2 c chicken stock

mushroom liquid, drained carefully of grit

1/2 - 1 c heavy cream

salt and white pepper

 

Soak dried porcini in the madiera for 45 minutes.

Near the end of that time, add 1 1/2 c chicken stock to the bowl, swish the mushrooms a bit to help release any grit. Then, lift the mushroom pieces out of the liquid and slowly it drain into another container, leaving all the grit behind. Chop mushrooms and set aside.

Heat the butter in a sauce pan to med-high, add the onion. Cook a couple of minutes and put in the sliced mushrooms. Stir to coat with the butter and sprinkle with a bit of salt. When liquid in the pan is reduced, shake in the flour and cook another couple of minutes until pan is dry.

With a whisk, or similar implement, slowly add the remaining chicken stock and the reserved mushroom liquid, removing all lumps. Simmer slowly for about one hour, until reduced a bit.

Strain out solids and puree them in a blender, adding about a cup of liquid. Keep pulsing, adding a quarter a cup of liquid at a time, until all is incorporated.

Pour into a clean sauce pan, add the cream and simmer briskly until it reaches "cream of mushroom soup" thickness.