On the Trail of Ancients

Tom Petrillo

Traveling northeast from Monument Valley the magnificent buttes and spires roll into an austere and eerie landscape of uplifted strata and layered rock. The road leads to Mexican Hat UT., and turns east toward Bluff. A roller coaster ride moves up through and over monoclines and anticlines of geological time zones. As the sun sets the forms of Cedar Mesa, and Comb Ridge take on a red then purple glow. What is hidden in the land of Mesas and Canyons from a passing car can only be imagined. The land in all its twilight glory seems dramatic and haunting, but inhospitable. Bluff UT. is located in the Southeast quadrant of utah about 40 miles from Monument Valley, 70 miles from Mesa Verde, and 40 miles from Hovenweep. It’s not an easy place to get to, but it lies in the center of rich archaeological treasures. The history of Bluff is filled with colorful settlers including the Anasazi, Paiutes and the Navajos. Like many utah communities, Bluff was eventually settled by the Mormons in 1880. The population grew to about 300, and remains the same today. One resident claimed there are more archaeologist per capita in Bluff than any other city. How and why can that be?To find out what lies beyond the highway the Historical Preservation Association provides a guide to some accessible rock art sites near Bluff. Petroglyphs are markings chiseled into stone, and they are easily found by carefully examining the surrounding bluffs.

Sand Island

Just west of town is a sign for Sand Island. A common starting point for river runners. The small sign, however, gives no indication of the marvelous Sand Island Petroglyph which is within a quarter mile of the road. It was late in the day as I walked near the ancient markings. From above I heard a whooshing sound. Startled I looked upward to find a hawk circling above riding the currents, and in the solitude the power of it’s wings turned the calm air into sound.The land around Bluff is peppered with pictographs (markings painted on rocks), dwellings and petroglyphs. Some like the Sand Island Petroglyph are easily found while others require arduous hikes into canyon country. To get a great taste of what’s to be found Wild Rivers Expeditions offers a one or three day 23 mile trip down the San Juan River. The San Juan River borders Navajo lands to the south and public land to the north. The first half of the trip includes stops at the incredible Butler Wash Panel. This panel includes a variety of “human forms”, artifacts, yucca plants, and symbols. The headdresses indicate royalty, but there is no museum label to clarify the meaning. Our guide gave us his interpretation, and left plenty of room for imagination and speculation. Just before lunch, on the one day trip, there’s a 1/2 mile hike to River House, an Anasazi cliff dwelling set magnificently into the cliff complete with pictographs (painted drawings), and a number of rooms including a Kiva (a ceremonial chamber.) The view from River House looks over cottonwood trees, and down the San Juan toward Mexican Hat. It’s clear why the ancients found this such prime real estate – great view and rich farmland.

After lunch the trip becomes a geological excursion as the river cuts deeper and deeper revealing eons of time described through the strata and upheavals of earlier geological activity. I made the trip in October, and found many Big Horn Sheep within a few yards of the river. The trip comes to an end as a unique rock form comes into view. Mexican Hat is the name of the rock formation, and the nearby town.

View from Moki Dugway

For more adventure, but still within reach of most travellers is a drive from Bluff to Natural Bridges National Monument. The trip from Bluff takes you west through Comb Ridge and toward Cedar Mesa. Cedar Mesa is a 1000 feet above, and in the 1950’s the Moki Dugway was cut into its face. This dugway makes for an exciting start to the day. Rising 1000 feet in about two miles the gravel road and switchbacks once carried traffic to the abandoned uranium mines nearby. From the top, the view includes Monument Valley, Valley of the Gods, and the beauty of an ancient vista. Going North along Rte. 261 along the top of Cedar Mesa the landscape is now green with low lying trees intersected with mysterious roads leading back into the depths of Canyon country. A quick stop at the Kane County ranger station will give you options for more hikes and adventures than you’ll have time for on this brief trip. The canyons in and around Cedar Mesa are under the auspices of the Bureau of Land Management, and are for serious hikers. Unlike maintained National Parks there are few signs to guide you, and the unfamiliar can quickly become disoriented and lost.

Natural Bridges

Natural Bridges, our destination, is a well staffed National Monument with a marked and paved one way loop road. The road passes three natural bridges with viewpoints available for each. Along with the view from above a trail leads down to the base of the bridges. It’s possible to hike beneath all three bridges, as there is a trail that follows the canyon bottom. It’s a sandy hike, and quite beautiful. The only difficulty is the 500 foot climb out of the canyon. At the second bridge, Kachina, you will find some petroglyphs along the base, and the remains of a small round structure within a large alcove. Horse Collar ruin is visible either from the road above, or along the or along the trail from Kachina to Sipapu Bridge. You can spend an hour, stopping in the visitors center, driving the loop drive, and enjoying the viewpoints, or the entire day hiking the canyon bottom. If you choose to hike the canyon bottom, keep in mind you’ll need to shuttle back to your car by feet or by thumb.

The trip back to Bluff takes you either east toward Blanding, or backtracking along Rte. 261 toward the Moki Dugway. Either way offers intriguing roads such as Snow Flat or Cigarette leading into the primitive back country of Cedar Mesa. If time and inclination permit there are beautiful sites awaiting discovery. This is rugged country if you choose to venture off the beaten path come prepared. Your adventures will be well rewarded, but in Cedar Mesa you are on your own.

After a day of hiking returning to Bluff you’ll find a variety of accommodations from traditional motels to B&B’s. I enjoy the ReCapture Lodge mostly for its friendly atmosphere and nightly slide shows. Each evening either Jim the owner, another resident, or visitor will entertain you with tales of Mormon settlers, beautiful photographs of petroglyphs and pictographs, or flora and fauna from the arid country. It’s a time to share the days adventure and plan for tomorrows. For eating there are three restaurants. Choose steaks grilled outdoors, Navajo tacos, or a unique blend of regional cuisine served in a gallery setting. Visit the Bluff web site for more detailed information and accommodations – http://www.bluff-utah.org. Travel distances from major cities to Bluff are: 300 miles from Albuquerque, 366 miles from Phoenix, 450 miles from Denver.

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