PBEM Up FrontBy request, here is a "frequently asked questions" page about upfront. This is a first edition, in a attempt to answer questions for those less familiar with the game. Feedback on this page is highly solicited. Up Front Frequently Asked
Questions. The rulebook seems confusing, or
am I stupid? Where can I get a copy of Up Front? I've learned how to play the game, what about tactics? What is the best nationality to play? Are there other resources for Up Front? Up Front is a non-collectible card game simulating squad level actions during World War II. Up Front was published by The Avalon Hill Game Company. The game is based loosely on the game Squad Leader, but the scale and tactics are much different. The original game Up Front contained American, German, and Russian troops. There were two modules published, Banzai, and Desert War. Banzai introduced the British and Japanese, while Desert War added the French and Italians. A rogue release, Folgore, covered the Italians in a much different light, removing many of the ridiculous rules, but maybe making them too powerful. Multi-Man Publishing has acquired the rights from Hasbro to republish Up Front. Hopefully in 2000. A game consists of any one of 24 scenarios. The first twelve scenarios were introduced in Up Front, while the second twelve were introduced in Banzai. There is some overlap of the scenarios, such as Scenario A from Up Front and Scenario M from Banzai are essentially similar. Desert War fleshed out the system by providing unit rosters for all nationalities for the scenarios. There are a few glaring omissions, however. There are two basic types of scenarios, meeting engagements and attacker/defender. In each scenario, the soldiers available to each nationality are provided, and these are the forces a side uses to accomplish its mission for the scenario. While there are conditions that provide an automatic victory for each scenario, a scenario can also end by inflicting sufficient casualties on your opponent. Players set up their forces within some simple guidelines. The soldiers are each represented by individual cards. A player must set up with at least two groups, but not more than four groups. Each group created during set up must have at least two soldiers, but not more than ten soldiers. The game is played in alternating turns. Players receive cards from the action deck, which is a different type of card than those used to represent soldiers. The number of cards received and guidelines for their use differ by nationality. The action deck dictates what actions you may instruct your men to take during the course of a turn. Common cards are movement, fire, and terrain. If you do not have a movement card, you cannot move your troops. If you don't have a fire card, your troops either cannot see the enemy, or they are not brave enough to pop their heads up to fire. In general, you can take only one action per group per turn. Overall, an average scenario, between players who understand the game, takes less than an hour to complete. So, why is Up Front a good game? This is only my opinion, but if you remember watching "The Rat Patrol" or "Combat", you'll understand why Up Front is a great game. It's definitely a game where players must accept the representation of the system. The battlefield is very flexible, and there is no game board per se, so players have to visualize what is occurring. Because your opponent holds his own cards, you're never sure what he is capable of doing. Thus, your own actions can bring you reward or anguish. Further, unlike conventional hex wargames, you don't have full knowledge of the battlefield, and you don't have complete and unrestricted control over your troops. While this can be very frustrating at times, it is also be very enjoyable. How much luck is there in the game? As in most games, there is luck. The randomness and numbers necessary to operate the game are on the action cards themselves. The generation of random numbers is a bell curve within the action deck. As in any card game, a particular sequence or dealing of cards can skew a game, and end it very quickly. However, understanding the composition of the action deck, and observing and understanding the status of a few key cards is very useful in the decision making process. Thus, a good player can reduce the element of luck to a large degree. Yet, since your opponent holds some of the cards, and can discard cards without your knowledge, certain decisions become calculated risks. If you let your cards play you, you will likely lose. If you can cycle cards through your hand, you are more likely to find the cards you are seeking, and this again reduces the luck factor. The rulebook seems confusing, or am I stupid? No, the rulebook is confusing, and you are not stupid. The reason the rulebook is confusing is that there are discrepancies, but more so, because the game uses mechanics that are not used by other games. Not having a real reference for what is trying to be conveyed generates some confusion. One point, and this might be difficult, but read the rulebook for what it is trying to portray, not as a literal legal document. There is too much information to convey every possible rule for every potential situation. You bet. Lots of it. More and more are generated as
the system ages, and people read more and more into the
rules. You can find the errata at: I read the erratum, but I still don't understand rule 19. I don't understand Rule 19 either. Actually, the great debate is 19.11 versus 19.13. For the most part, both sides are quite passionate about their interpretation, and many of the arguments presented are quite convincing. However, since I serve as the errata man, I made the final decision (and that is 19.13 probably applies in most cases). I'm still confused, but I want to play. What do I do? Actually, the best way to learn the game is to have someone teach you, initially using open hands. You can find opponents on the Up Front home page. If that is not practical, then I would suggest going to the Eric Taylor web page, and "lurking" in on some of the games, especially a completed game. Download the list of the actions taken, and play the game in an open manner. This should give you some insight of the mechanics of how the game plays. Since you're asking this question, I'm going to assume that you don't have a local club or opponent to play against. There are several resources still available. One, if there is a convention local to you, you might want to look for opponents there. Two, follow this link to the mailing lists. This may help you find a local opponent, or an opponent within a reasonable distance. Another source is the Up Front internet ladder. Once you read that, you'll realize that this requires a play-by-email or another method. These methods are described at: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/upfront2000/pbemuf.htm. Where can I get a copy of Up Front? Unfortunately, The Avalon Hill Game Company was sold to Hasbro, Inc. and even before that, the game went out of print. Not that it was a sales disaster, mind you, it just was never the love child of TAHGC. Given that, you'll either have to stumble across a copy in a hobby shop (probably tough), search some of the online game shops/trading posts (use http://grognard.com) or post on rec.games.board.marketplace (or http://www.dejanews.com) with a WTB Up Front message. You could throw yourself into the grip of ebay, www.ebay.com if you are really willing to pay for a copy. Finally, if there is a local game convention that has a flea market or auction, go there and try to find a copy. Those are the best ideas I can give you. Yes, it will take some effort on your part, but IMO, it is worth it. Now if you're really patinent, MMP is planning on republishing Up Front. It will most likely have new graphics, and the game will appear different, but it will be the same game, with some tweaks to make it easier to understand. Keep in touch for more information. I've learned how to play the game, what about tactics? So, now you know how to play the game, but you would like to quit being the whipping boy. There are several resources available. Issues 21/1 and 22/2 of "The General" have some decent strategy notes. Relative Range, a rogue periodical published by Mike Nagel had some strategy notes. However, since you might not have those readily available... Some basics: Don't let the cards play you. By this, I mean, don't take actions that are dictated by the cards in your hand, unless they are of benefit to you. If its not a crisis situation, then cycle cards, say through discarding, to get the cards you need. Tactics at this level are fire and maneuver. One group is probably going to provide the bulk of your firepower, the other is going to provide a "maneuver" group. However, almost any assault should be a balanced attack, so that your maneuver group isn't hung out to dry. If you can deliver the coup de gras running your maneuver group to victory, do so. But if you have not immediate need, groups that can provide mutual support are better. Also, I advocate putting your better morale men in the firebase. Keep in mind your objectives, and the time to accomplish those objectives. Three decks is a long time. There is no need to rush things, even as the attacker. Don't be discouraged that low odds attacks aren't doing much. If you pin your opponent's crew served weapon, then moving is a much safer proposition. Sure, that machine gun might rally, but at least you've moved during temporary safety. While certain approaches look like sure-fire strategies, nothing is certain. Say you are playing Scenario D as the attacker. You figure, I'll just put my Mortar and a crewman in Group A and everyone else in Group B, and just overwhelm my opponent with firepower. Great, but remember that an opponent on defense will love a big Group, because that allows him to burn cards every time he attacks. Further, there is more opportunity for your opponent to spoil your assault by pinning just one man, and he has many opportunities to do so every time he fires. Please note, anyone who has come up with a more graphical example, please contact me. Most importantly, cycle cards through your hand. Say you are a Russian player, with your four card hand. You are at Range Chit 0, and your opponent, the German is at Range Chit 1. You have a nice fire card, but you need to advance in order to use it. Your opponent, is sitting in some nice terrain. You also have a lovely terrain card, a Rally card, and a concealment card. While in some cases this might be a desirable hand, it is currently worthless. Why? If your opponent is nicely entrenched, don't expect him to close range with you do allow you to use your advantage. The terrain card is worthless, as you don't have a movement card to get to that new terrain. The concealment card? Well, your opponent has been discarding one card per turn, either he has a very nice hand, or he's in a peculiar situation, but in either case, he hasn't been firing at you. The Rally card is nice to have, but again, you need to move your troops. Recommendation? Discard your entire hand. Even if you draw four cards that you cannot use, you are no worse off than before you discarded. Further, the odds of you drawing another Rally card, another terrain card, and/or another Fire card are pretty good. But more importantly, you've allowed yourself the greatest opportunity to draw a Movement card, which you really need at this point. What is the best nationality to play? In an informal survey, most people like to play the Japanese, with the Russians and Germans landing at numbers two and three. Does this mean they are the best to play? Not necessarily. I would advocate that you really should play every nationality, and play them many times, to get a feel for their strengths and weaknesses. What is really enjoyable about Up Front is that you think you play a particular nationality well, until you come up against a new opponent, who cleans your clock. Adaptability and flexibility are keys to playing this game well. Are there other resources for Up Front? There is: The Up Front Home Page, the starting spot for the Up Front Home Page. The Up Front Mailing List, a link to sign up for a discussion board dedicated to Up Front. The Up Front Ladder Page, play Up Front competitively across the internet! The Up Front PBW page, a place to play your ladder games. ConsimWorld for wargaming discussion and events in general. Web Grognards, a source of information on wargames. Everything from reviews to lists, to shops, to links... Boardgame Players Association. This is the home of the "Convention formerly known as Avaloncon". Boardgame Geek. More of a game database, and very good for that purpose. Unless otherwise noted, all contents copyright © 2005, Andrew R. Maly. 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