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6/10/01 Hotel Artemis and Kostas During the long Flying Dolphin (Hydrofoil) ride from Lesbos to Samos I decided to stay at the Hotel Artemis. I am not sure what attracted me to it. Sure it was the first hotel listed in my guidebook. Sure it was on the promenade (about .25 miles from the dock but on the promenade). Sure it was one of the cheapest that I knew the location of. (the cheapest being on a street my map had but I could not find). Perhaps it was all of these items combined with the fact only fancy hotel owners met the boat that arrived at 4:00 P.M. What ever it was, I decided to go to the Hotel Artemis. It was a choice I was very glad to have made.As I mentioned above, only the fancy hotels sent their representatives to the boat. This could have been a good or a bad sign, I was not sure. I was fearing that this would be a crowded Aegean Island. That the only places to stay would be high priced fancy hotels with "Refrigerated Air" (Air Conditioning). Therefore I double timed it, with my overbearing backpack, to the Hotel Artemis. I wanted to stay with in my budget.
Double timing meant walking fast for about a quarter mile with a 30 kilogram backpack in the afternoon heat. By the time I got to the hotel I was out of breath. I was in good shape at the time so which gives you an idea of what the heat combined with the large backpack does to a person running! It was just my luck, the reception was on the second floor. So I huffed up the floor, being half exhausted from lugging my backpack a mere quarter mile. When I got to the second floor I glanced at the scene before me. There were several German tourists, in a sunroom, talking with an gentleman in his 60 who I would learn was eternally young. Attempting to be polite, I asked him if heh ad any singles and how much. He very politly told me he did have a room for me for four days and that it would be 4000 dr a night. (20 dollars) After establishing that there was a room, I was expecting to be shown to my room so I could shower, change my clothes and investagate connections for when I was to move on. (Always make arrangements for leaving before it is time to leave.)
Boy was I wrong. Instead he gestured me to sit down with the German guests and brought me an Ouzo. For those of you who haven't had the misfortune to experience Ouzo, think about 180 proof alcohol that tastes like black l icorices. It is apparently an acquired taste. A taste I have yet to acquire. I apparently arrived in time for social hour (or three). The Germans had been coming to the hotel Artemis for years and knew each other and Kostas (the owner) quite well. Since I was the new person, I quickly became the topic of conversation. They asked me where I was from, what I did, why I was in Greece (Kostas was very happy to hear I came to visit my Grandfathers Village) and how long I was staying. I was very politely sipping on my Ouzo. It was more out of politeness than enjoyment.
Conversation drifted for the next few hours. More Germans arrived as we were talking. Instead of showing them to their rooms, they would sit down and join Kostas in a glass of (home made) Ouzo. I think Kostas figured out that Ouzo was not my drink because when I finally finished my Ouzo I was brought a glass of homemade white wine that was absolutely wonderful. I am not a fan of white wines but this was extremely good wine. I could drink it all night.
Unfortunatly I could not buy this wine in any store. It was a special reserve. Kostas's special reserved. Wine grown on his vineyards. With Grapes that he kept for himself. That he made himself. It was fantastic. Learning I was from California and taught chemistry, Kostas quizzed me on making wine. (Unfortunatly I know very little about it.) Even though I was quite content with it, Kostas still wanted to improve on his wine.
Social hour lasted for about three or four hours and finally, I went up to my room. I was delighted to learn that this was a nightly occurrence and I cherished swapping stories with other patrons for the next few nights. I met several people during this time. All of whom were regulars on Samos and at Kostas's hotel. And to think I spend my summers traveling from place to place. They were all enjoyable, friendly, educated people. They shared their lives with me openly.
Despite my two horror stories Samos was a magnificent island. It is very beautiful with scenic beaches and no touristy resorts. I really enjoyed my stay on the island and I think in part it was because of Kostas and his hospitality. Kostas was quite a character. Self educated, but very, very smart. He has made a fortune, lost it and made a new one. He is friendly, and very funny. I am very glad to have met him and when I return to Samos, I will make reservations to be sure that I stay with him.
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