Getting Lost in Venice I learned many things on my first solo travel trip. Things that I would keep in mind for future trips. Things that would help me avoid major pitfalls. A few of those things I would learn on my first night in Venice.I had just arrived in Venice. by Train. In my right hand I had my trusty bible (my guide book) and on my back I had everything but the kitchen sink (mainly because it wouldn't fit). My bag most likely weighed 80 pounds or so I had so much junk in it. At least no one would be able to walk off with it. I had just taken the train from Switzerland and it was around three o'clock. I had money in the form of French Francs and a few hundred dollars in Travelers checks. That was no problem, I would just go to a bank or a money changer and get many Italian Lira for my francs and dollars. The train I took went from Geneva, to Malino to Venice. As a result many of the travelers were just getting to Italy as well. As a result there was a long line at the bank inside of the train station. Therefore, forgetting to check the time Italian banks closed, I chose to go to the bathroom instead of cashing my travelers checks first. After all, I could always use my ATM card.
When I got back from the bathroom the line was still there in the bank. However, the bank doors were locked. It closed at 3:00. No problem. I'll just use my ATM card. I put in the card and typed in my 8-digit number. It only read the first 7. I tried again. Same result. Apparently this ATM could only read a 7-digit code. Well that was O.K. my ATM was meant as backup on this trip. I would just go outside to a cash changer.
Never, in my life have I had trouble cashing travelers checks. I have traveled through Mexico, Hawaii, Sumatra, and most of Europe and never had a problem changing my traveler's checks. My American Express traveler's checks. My signature is also a little bit messy, I give you that. But I have never been questioned about the authenticity of it. The man at the moneychanger was a brutish man who looked as if he got up on the wrong side of the bed for the last twenty years. I gave the man my passport and singed I think 100 dollars in travelers checks. The large amount was because my guidebook told me to change large amounts so I wouldn't get nicked by commission charges. The broker didn't like them and told me to he wouldn't take them. So I tried again. Again no luck. This was a moneychanger inside a tourist office. I have no idea why the man didn't want to take my travelers checks. Perhaps he thought I was an Italian who stole someone's checks and passport. Perhaps he didn't want to change 100 dollars worth of checks. After refusing my second attempt, he flatly told me to get lost.
Now I had a problem. I had 200 dollars in signed travelers checks. I didn't have any Lira to catch the boat to San Marcos to the American Express office or my hotel (which I had no money to pay for). Well, Venice is a series of islands, its not like I would get lost so I will just walk there.
This was late June. The weather in the Alps had been very wet. I thought I had escaped the wet weather when I crossed into Italy. Well the weather caught up with me here in Venice. It started to sprinkle as soon as I started to walk through the serries of streets. I had my trusty map to go by so I thought I would be safe. My map was a fairly good one though it was lacking some of the streets, so the further I went the less sure I was of my location. At one point I ran into an elderly British couple who I asked for verification for where I was. These people were either lost or jerks who thought it would be funny to play a trick on me. They told me I was in a completely different part of Venice than I was really in. And I believed them. Now when you go to Venice, by all means get "lost" and wander the streets. You can get "unlost" easily, and there major landmarks you can find your way by. However, wait till you have money (Euro's now), have your hotel room and preferably do not do it in pouring rain. I followed their directions until I got to a major (ish) canal with a "street" sign on it. I then checked my map and found out I was where I originally thought I was. I had some unnice thoughts about the British "couple" who I had asked for help.
I eventually got to Realto bridge, the half way mark to my final destination to San Marcos Plaza, the location of the American express office and my hotel. There I found a moneychanger who did take my signed checks. I was grateful for someone taking my checks and getting some Lira that I didn't ask the rate. I latter found out that I got a bad rate in addition to paying a large (25 dollar) service charge. I felt very cheated, but I had no other real choice. I had my signed checks and people could have refused them anywhere.
It was very easy to get from Rialto Bridge to San Marco's Plaza. Generations of Venetians made this trip from the market area of Rialto to the religious center of San Marcos. I wanted to stay at a "hostel" type of place but again; I could not find its exact location. So I did something foolish. I asked at another hotel. I have no idea why. Most likely because it was raining and no one was around. The clerk sensing a kill, or needing to fill a room, asked how much the hotel was offering in Dollars. I said 35 dollars night, which was the honest answer. At the time 35 dollars a night was good rate for Venice. He said he would give me that much plus a continental breakfast. (I have since learned to try to negotiate a lower rate without the breakfast.) It was raining so I decided to take it.
The room I got was quite nice for the rate. Quite clearly he was trying to fill a room for a few nights. It was a back room; quite clearly a lower rate but it had its own bathroom, another price hike. It had a nice view of the rain gutter of the building next to it, with a charming cacti growing out of it.
Not having money at the train station had presented me with other problem. I had no money to reserve my train tickets to Florence. It is always a good idea to book tickets ahead of time for your get away. That way when you get to the station, you walk right up to the platform. However, I had no cash on me when I was at the station.
On my 2001 trip, I did a lot of my boat/train ticket punches on my credit card out of necessity rather than convince. (I had lost my ATM card ). I did not want to use a credit card at that time because I was going to be away for so long and it was only for emergencies. A debit card would also have worked but they had not yet come into vogue at the time. This meant that I was not able to book the train tickets until after I got money. Therefore, after checking in, I returned to the station on foot.
This time I allowed my self to wander the streets, the rain had let up by now. It was nice walk, exploring old Venice. When I got lost, I trusted my map to find the main boulevards. I saw a side of Venice with all the scenic and romantic canals but with out the people. Venice is quite an enjoyable town, as long as its not raining and you have an 80 pound back pack attached to your body at several painful points. The canals sing of Venice's past glory when it was a major trading empire with the Byzantine Empire and the East. (Venice did not go through the dark ages) And it was no problem getting lost. I had my trusty map to try to find my way. I found little plazas with fountains that most tourists would miss. I had romantic bridges all to my self. (O.k. maybe that was a draw back). My walk took me about 45 minutes or so and I booked my tickets on. Now I had to get back to my hotel again. I took the bus-boat enjoying a scenic Grand Canal tour with the grandest of mansions in the process. There was no way to get lost. The boat made stops at Realto Bridge and San Marcos Plaza. I had a nice seat in the front and I could sit back and enjoy one of the loveliest cities in Europe.
What did I learn on this day? Have a greater trust in your map, be careful to sign travelers checks very clearly, and to negotiate the price of hotel rooms.
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