Dashboard

  Exploring

 

 

 

 

In this episode, we track an elusive buzzing noise into the bowels of the dashboard. 

 

The top half of the dashboard is not trivial to remove – better allow most of a day the first time.  This was done on a Vibe, but most of this probably applies to Matrix as well.

 

Tools required include a Phillips screwdriver, 10 mm wrench, 10 mm and 12 mm nutdrivers or sockets with extension, and a sturdy knife with tape covering the sharp edge.

 

IMPORTANT FIRST STEPS:

  1. Use your finger to measure the gap between the dashboard and the windshield.  If it is like mine, the gap is wider at one end.  Having not noticed this beforehand, I wasted almost 2 hours taking it apart a second time and convincing myself that is just the way it fits.
  2. The plastic snaps that hold the trim onto the front roof pillars (shown above) break easily.  The white one is an original, the brown is a marginal one the Toyota dealer gave me.  Might as well pull off both pillar trim pieces first, and be ready to go looking for replacement snaps.  There is one snap at the top and one near the middle, and they snap toward the middle of the car.
  3. The service manual says you must disable the airbags, so I did.  Aim the steering straight ahead, put the ignition in lock and remove the key, find your radio security code if you ever set one (you will need it later), disconnect the ground terminal of the battery, then pop open the fuse box under the left end of the dash and remove fuse AM2.  (Toyota just says disconnect the ground terminal and wait 90 seconds for everything to discharge.)

 

CENTER TRIM:

  1. Use a tape-covered knife blade to pry the top/center trim piece away from the dash.  It should pull straight out about 1 cm, then some half-hinges will catch and hinge the trim up as shown:

If you hinge it up far enough you can disengage the hinges.  Then release the connectors and pull them off.  The A/C switch is a big block that can be unlatched from the trim as a single piece.

  1. The radio is next, shown after removal of the four special screws.  If removing it fully, detach the antenna, the electrical connector, and push out the cable tie for the A/C harness, which attaches to the radio.

  1. The other central trim piece runs from the radio down to the shifter.  You don’t need to remove this one to get the dashboard off, but I took it off for other reasons.   Take off the shift knob.  Numerous snap latches pop straight out easily.   “E” is the connector I left disconnected from the climate control -- it normally connects above to the switch that automatically turns the A/C on when defrost is on.  More about that under “hidden features”.

 

OTHER PARTS:

  1. Lower the steering wheel and pull the rings around the instruments straight out, or pry with the blade.
  2. The trim around the left-side vent is easily removed with your taped blade, then release the two electrical connectors.
  3. Remove the screw from the right side of the glove box door.  Then the glove box can be lifted off its hinges while open – it will pop off if you pull up firmly.  Maneuver the box up and out to clear the stops.
  4. The passenger airbag needs to be detached.  There is one yellow electrical connector you must unplug and pry free from the crossbar.  The airbag itself is attached to the crossbar with one big bolt – use a 12-mm socket with extension.
  5. Remove the one screw from the top of the instruments.  You can remove the instruments later – they snap up much like the glove box – and there is one electrical connector on the back.
  6. Disconnect the automatic headlights light sensor, the plug right above the speedometer.

 

THE UPPER DASH:

  1. Remove the three screws along the front of the dash.
  2. You should now be able to lift the near edge of the dash up, popping each latch up as you proceed across.  The service manual says to remove the steering wheel, but that not essential – just be prepared for some maneuvering to get the dashboard past the steering wheel.   You may want to sit in the passenger seat since the dash is heavy at that end.  Make sure everything is free, and then maneuver the dash out of the car.

 

Wow, now you’re inside.  In the pictures below, “B” is a shiny metal box with 16-pin connector, presumably the cruise control, and my number-one suspect for the buzzing noise.  It attaches to the crossbar with one screw, leaving it free to vibrate.  (Other parts have single-screw mounts too, but they are in quieter plastic cases.)  I immobilized it with a kludged-up framework of duct tape and steel.  Try not to add too much thermal insulation in case this box generates a lot of heat.  Be sure your instrument cluster has anti-squeak tape on the speedometer protrusion “C.”  I also put some foam tape between the paired air ducts on both sides, “D”, probably not required, but while you are in here why not….

 

 

 

 

 

Assemble in reverse order.  Don’t forget to thread the odometer button through the hole in the instrument trim rings.

 

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