FAQ / TIPS
This FAQ / Tips section can give you some answers you might have about how to prepare for your wedding reprint;
what kind of film is good for what situation; general tips for camera use;
why and when do you want 8x12 or 8x10; etc.
This FAQ page is written by one of our employees, Stephen.
| Our Services
| Wedding Reprints
| What Film to Use
| Digital Imaging
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Our Services
Q: What types of film can you process?
A: We can develop and print 35mm, and medium format (120 and 220) film.
Q: Can you print from CD or removable media?
A: YES WE DO!!!
Please check out our Digital Services section for more information.
Q: I have a roll of 110 film, can you develop that?
A: We can only develop 110 film but we cannot print from it.
110 film has been obsoleted many years ago,
because of poor print quality.
Q: I have a roll of slide and a roll of black and white film,
can you process them?
A: We do no process straight black and white film and slide film.
We send the black and white film to Panda Lab and send the slide to Ivey Imaging.
Q: What about TMax CN film? Can you process that?
A: Yes, TMAX CN is a C-41 monochromic film, we can develop it in house.
Q: When I order an 8 inch print from my 35mm negative,
why am I getting 8x12 instead of 8x10?
A: 8x10 has been around for a long time. The print size of 8x10 came from a full frame 8 inch print off a 4x5 negative.
This is why people calls 8 inch print an 8x10.
Since the invention of 35mm,
a new film format with a 2:3 aspect ratio, to print an 8 inch wide photo with full frame image;
the print is going to be 8x12 in order to maintain the same aspect ratio.
Q: If 8x12 is a full frame printed off a 35mm, why can I still get 8x10 from other photo labs?
A: You can still get 8x10 prints off a 35mm because the other photo labs crop the print for you (with or without telling you).
When we print your 8x12, we keep it 8x12 and let you crop it.
This is because we want to leave the decision up to you, instead of making the decision for you.
Q: I have some color negatives, can I have them printed sepia?
A: Sepia print traditionally has to be printed off a black and white or monochromic negative.
We print the black and white image onto color paper. With extensive color adjustment,
we can get the print to look sepia-like.
If we print a color negative image onto a color paper, all we can get is a full color print.
However, with Digital Services we can now print Color image into Black and White and Sepia print.
Since the native image is color, and conversion has to be done to acheive the monochromic effect;
the quality of Digital Sepia print will not look as good as Optical Sepia print from black and white negative.
Q: Can I still get a somewhat decent "optical sepia" look from Digital Sepia print?
A: YES! However, it can be quite tricky.
Here are a few ways to acheive the "Optical Sepia" look from Digital Sepia print.
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Use Kodak TMax CN 400, Kodak Portra BW 400, or any monochromic film
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Give us a native Black and White image to print as Digital Sepia.
Because printing from a native Black and White image gets MUCH BETTER result than printing from a native Color image as Digital Sepia.
Q: Should I print from digital file or negative even though the digital file is scanned from the neg?
A: ALWAYS print from your negative! Digital file has limitations.
If your print is bigger than what the digital file is, then you start to see pixelation.
When you print from negative, no matter how big you print it, you still get more detail than a large digital file.
Also, negative is mean for printing use. If you have your negatives with you, why not use them?
Always use Digital file as a backup.
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Wedding Reprints
Q: I have a whole bunch of wedding reprints and what is the easiest way for us to do this?
A: First of all, we recommend that you make a list of what you want.
Organize the list by roll number because we will have you transfer your list onto our reprint envelope(s).
One envelope for each roll.
For examples, all the prints you want to order from negative roll A will go into the roll A envelope.
Q: Should I check my prints against my negatives for accuracy?
A: Yes, when you go over your photos with your list, please check the image against the negative.
This way you can make sure the frame number on the negative matches up with the frame number on the back of your photo.
Therefore, this ensures that you are ordering the correct print.
Q: Should I bring in some of my originals for color match?
A: Definitely, try to bring us as many of your original prints as possible.
Even though we print all the photos with the best color and density possible, we handle so many rolls of film each day,
it is impossible for us to remember how we printed your original photos.
Therefore, as many original prints you can leave with us,
the better we can match the color for your reprints.
Q: I know that leaving all the originals with my order is preferred,
but I don't feel comfortable doing that. What can I do?
A: We prefer to have all the original prints you want to order reprints of.
However, we understand that you might not feel comfortable enough to leave us with everything.
In this case, we recommend that you leave us a few originals,
so that can give us a general idea of what color and density we should go for when we're in doubt.
If you have any enlargements, try to leave us with the originals you want enlargement of.
Q: I gave away all of my originals, so I don't have any originals for color match. What should I do?
A: In this case, we will have to print your order with the best color / density base on the decision at the time we print it.
A way to help us make the color decision is to let us know who is your wedding photographer.
It is because each photographer has his/her own preference of color and density.
If we know that, we can print your order base on their preference.
This way we can at least make your order look as close to your originals as possible without the aid of seeing it.
Q: Can you guarantee a 100% match if I leave you with all the originals I need reprints of?
A: We would love to try printing everything exactly the same as the originals.
However, paper emulsion change, chemical fluctuation and other subtle factors can change the color and density of a photo slightly.
This means even though we are printing the exact same photo,
the color might look a little different compare to the same one printed just a few minutes ago.
The art of photography is that everything has its own moment, and nothing can be done exactly the same.
However, the difference we are talking about here can be very subtle.
If we printed the original photo, then most of the time we can reprint and match the color up to 99% of accuracy.
Q: Should I leave you my whole wedding album instead of taking out each individual print?
A: We prefer taking individual print instead of the whole album.
This is because whenever we print a photo, we have to flip through you album to find the same print for color match.
This process will slow us down tramendously. Not only it takes much longer time to have your order done,
your album might start to wear out because of excessive flipping.
Therefore, to protect your photo album and to help speed up the process, individual print is preferred.
Q: If I need to call in to change my order, can I do that anytime?
A: Unfortunately, once you drop off your order, we might start your order anytime.
If you need to change your order, please make the changes within 24 hours from the time you drop it off.
After we start your order, anything that is already printed cannot be canceled or refunded.
Changing your order might result in a longer turn around time as well.
Q: How long does a wedding reprint order take?
A: It depends on our schedule and how back up we are. In general, during the peak season (from May thru early January),
it could take up to 4 weeks or even longer (especially the time around the winter holidays).
If you want your reprint and/or photo greeting card order to be done before the winter holidays,
we recommand that you drop off your order before Thanksgiving.
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What Film To Use
Q: I want to try some sepia prints, what film should I use?
A: Sepia print can be printed off any black and white or monochromic negative.
However, the quality of the print partly depends on what black and film it is printed off.
Specifically for sepia print, we recommand using the Kodak TMAX CN400 or Kodak Portra BW 400.
They both are monochromic color-base film,
and they are specifically design for printing both close-to-black and white and sepia print on a color machine.
Portra BW 400 has slightly higher contrast than TMAX CN.
However, photographers find that TMAX CN has a more natural color and contrast for our sepia print.
Q: What other straight black and white film would you recommend for sepia print?
A: Other black and white films for sepia print include Kodak TMAX series, Kodak Tri-X, Ilford (except XP2), and Fuji Neopan series.
In general, straight black and white film has lower contrast compare to monochromic film.
TMAX series has moderate contrast like the CN version but not as fine grain.
Tri-X has lower contrast but with a very saturated "creamy" look to it.
Ilford in general has the lowest contrast among others.
Some photographers find it very suitable for portraits and weddings while others find it very flat and foggy.
Ilford's XP2 is a straight black and white film that can be developed in C-41 chemical.
It is a good film for printing straight black and white, but it is by our standard,
the worst black and white film to print sepia. Fuji Neopan has the highest contrast among others.
It has finer grain compare to the same speed TMAX film. Since it is quite contrasty,
it is suitable for overcast daylight situation.
Q: Fuji color vs. Kodak color, what is your opinion?
A: Since I, Stephen, wrote this FAQ; I'll answer this one as my personal opinion.
I love Fuji color film. Fuji film has 4 layers of color. There are 2 layers of green, that is why there are 4 layers.
The extra layer of green actually helps the color pop out more.
All the greens are very true green color while the red is very brilliant.
Fuji film looks good on all brands of paper including Kodak paper. However, Kodak film only looks good on Kodak paper.
I read this information from somewhere, and now I know why Kodak looks the way it is.
Kodak film is yellow base, and its blue layer does not stand out well.
That is why when you print Kodak film on paper other than Kodak, the print will look either too yellow, too red or too green.
When you look at a print of a person in front of a lawn, when you adjust the skin tone to look normal,
the green lawn will look somewhat brownish. On the other half, Kodak paper has an extra layer of blue,
so that when Kodak film is printed on Kodak paper, the blue on the paper balances out the missing layer of blue color on the film.
When you print other films onto Kodak paper, the shadow area always looks like black with a dark blue tint on it,
this is the extra blue layer on the paper. Since we know that extra blue and green layer helps color in general,
Kodak paper helps all films to look good on it because of it. What a good strategy.
Fuji gives full range of color, and it has much finer grain compare to Kodak.
That is why I love Fuji over Kodak.
In fact many professional photographers switch from Kodak to Fuji for similar reasons.
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Digital Imaging
Q: What is MegaPixel?
A: MegaPixel is term for describing the dimension of an image. Mega in computer term means Million.
Therefore MegaPixel means million of pixel.
For example, an image that is 2000x3000 pixel = 6,000,000 sq. Pixel = 6 MegaPixel (6MP).
Q: What is dpi?
A: dpi means dot-per-inch. It's a measuring unit to determine how large a digital image can be printed.
Normally the printing resolution is at 300 dpi, and the website display resolution is at 72 dpi.
Q: So what is 300 dpi mean?
A: 300 dpi means there are 300 dots per inch.
See below on how to calculate a printable size using dpi and image dimension.
Q: My images are scanned at 300 dpi, do you think they are large enough to be printed as an 8x10?
A: First of all, what is the image dimension that you have?
If it is only 600x400 @ 300dpi, you can only print it as a 1x0.7 photo!
However, if it is a 2000x3000 @ 300dpi, then you can print it as an 8x10.
When it comes to printing, image dimension is the most important factor.
Image dimension and dpi are both very important especially when you print at home.
Q: I have a 4000x6000 @ 96dpi, can I still print it?
A: Do not let the word "96 dpi" throws you off.
Our machine will automatically convert all images to 300dpi regardless of what dpi they are at.
However, if you want to print at home with your inkjet printer, you have to convert the images from 96 dpi to 300 dpi.
Q: So, how large can my 4000x6000 image be printed?
A: Now let's do some math. 300 dpi means 300 dots or pixels per inch.
On the long side of your image, it is 6000 pixel. When you divide 6000 pixel by 300 dpi, you get 20 inch on the long side.
It is that easy! So, a 4000x6000 image (if set to 300dpi), you can get a print of up to 13x20.
Q: How come when I reset the dpi in photoshop from 72dpi to 300dpi, the image dimension changed?
A: This is because you have the "Resample Image: Bicubic" checkbox checked on the Image Size dialog box.
Simply uncheck that, and you can change the dpi of your image without changing the image dimension.
Q: How come the print looks different from my monitor at home?
A: It is because we correct the color and density for each image regardless of whether it is from film or digital.
This is why it looks different from your home monitor.
However, if you specially requested NOT having your prints color and density adjusted,
but they still look different from your monitor; that means your monitor is not calibrated to our print production.
Q: But I have my monitor calibrated using the Spider and color wheels and etc.?
A: Having your monitor calibrated is a good way to start. It gives you more accurate color (especially for online website display).
However, when it comes to printing, calibrating your monitor to one set of color isn't good enough.
It is because different paper, different ink, different photographic machine, chemical fluctuation,
different photographic paper emulsion, and etc. can change the color and density of the print.
This is why not only you want to calibrate your monitor to the standard set of color,
but you also need to calibrate and create a different set of ICC profile,
specifically for the prints from your lab or your inkjet printer!
Back to the original question...how come the print looks different from your monitor at home?
It is because you probably haven't calibrated your monitor to our prints yet.
Q: Should I go with a LCD monitor or a CRT monitor?
A: CRT monitor!!! Nothing can give get more accurate than a CRT monitor.
I don't want to get too technical here about why it happens. But, when you look at a LCD monitor from a slightly different angle,
you will notice the color will change! No matter how expensive of a LCD monitor you have, it still has color shift problem!
On the other hand, CRT does not have this problem no matter what angle you look at it.
This is why most of the graphic, photo, design,
and many other color control oriented companies still insist on using CRT monitor instead of LCD.
Q: What is the difference between JPEG (.jpg) and TIFF (.tif)?
A: JPEG is a compressed image. Depending on the compression ratio, the file size can be 1/10 to 1/5 of the same image in TIFF format.
I will not get into the technical information about why JPEG can be small and efficient.
However, the file size of JPEG depends on how many different color and how scatter the different color is.
So, even though all images are at 6MegaPixel, but their file size can be very different.
On the other hand, TIFF is an uncompressed file format.
Therefore, the file size can be very large compare to JPEG (18MB vs. 3.5MB).
Q: Quality wise, what is the difference between JPEG and TIFF?
A: We use a low compression ratio (such as level 12 in Photoshop) JPEG format,
which you can hardly see any difference compare to the TIFF version.
The larger the image dimension, the less difference you see. In contrast, the smaller the image dimension,
the more difference you see.
This is because JPEG compression is using a grouping method,
which it groups all the similar color nearby into a block to reduce the file size.
This is why the higher the compression ratio, the smaller the file size, and the more pronounced blocks you see.
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