After waking from yet another nap, watching some of the traffic whiz by
on the large, by-passy outer ring road, then getting situated, we went down
to the hostel bar. There were a couple of women from New Zealand there. We
talked to them for a while, decided to venture into town and find one of
Michael Jackson's recommended bars, get something to drink and maybe eat.
The bartender gave us directions on a little tourist map they hand out and
we were on our way. The Kiwis wouldn't join us, something about not wanting
to miss their train the next morning. Glad we're driving.

     We plotted a course along the Scheldt River so we wouldn't get lost,
found free parking not far from a center of activity, got out and walked
around. Antwerp is a very beautiful city, second in size to Brussels, so we
were restricted to a small area in our limited time frame, but if I ever
have the fortune to get there again, I'd like to give it several days to see
the other parts of town. I  know they must be a sight. Anyway, we walked
around some, marveling at the architecture and such and found our way to
"The 11th. Commandment" at 10 Torfbrug, next to an impressive cathedral.
Then we went inside.

     This place is nuts. It's a cross between a bar and a church. Covering
the walls are religious artifacts, sacred and profane. The bible thumpers in
America would absolutely flip out if a place like this opened on Main
Street, U.S.A. The more I see of other countries the more I realize how
uptight America is. OK, enough bitchin', back to the show. The front room
and main bar were crowded so we got a table by a stained glass window
further back along the wall. The beer menus were encyclopedic with hundreds
of offerings. Having neither my journal or a camera with me (Zeke and Tony
forgot their cameras also) there is no record of the night, but I can tell
you we drank several beers of different varieties and had a great time. Zeke
made Tony and I sit in his seat to check the view. Through the stained
glass, the pale, full moon brushed the steeple of the magnificent cathedral
just across the cobblestoned way. It was one of those life moments when
everything seems to be just perfect. Later, since we couldn't eat there, we
paid the bill and went looking for a place with food we could afford.

     Mission unaccomplished. We were unable to find De Koninck's which we
had hoped to visit. Then, being Sunday night, places were closing early. The
ones that were open were ludicrously expensive so we got back in the car and
returned to the hostel  who were offering pizza or lasagna (frozen, no
doubt) when we left. Rats! The kitchen was closed at the hostel as well, so
we dug the lunchmeat and rolls out of the trunk, made sandwiches, and ate
them at the hostel bar accompanied by a couple more beers. If I had planned
to be sharing these experiences I really would have kept better notes on the
beers we drank and their flavors and character and all that, but I didn't, I
just drank them. And they were good.

     Monday monday, it seems hard to believe that we have been at this for
over a week. Time does fly when you're having fun. After breakfast at the
hostel, bread , butter, jam and coffee, ( That's it? Man, that's the worst
yet.) we headed back to town to get some pictures. The ones we should have
gotten on Sunday. The 11th. wasn't open so we couldn't get shots of the
fabulous interior. Guess I'll have to keep the memory of them locked in the
vault. Hope I don't get Oldtimers disease. Where was I? Oh yea. So we took
the pictures and then got in the car and headed to Westmalle (just west of
Oostmalle).

     When we arrived we went to check out the bar/restaurant first. This is
the most elaborate operation of all the Trappist monasteries. A large
restaurant with a beautiful bar, several dining rooms, with a large patio
for dining alfresco.  We asked about touring the monastery and were directed
to the manager of the restaurant. He told us the the monks were reclusive
and didn't usually receive visitors, but he offered to show us a video about
the brewing at the monastery. So we ordered a couple of dubbels and a
tripel, sat down in an unused dining room and watched the show. It was very
informative but not many special effects. 3 stars and suitable for family
viewing. After the show we retired to the main dining room.

     We got another round and some cheese and mustard for a snack. First,
the beers. The dubble was great, the tripel, very good. We also tried a De
Koninck ale. It was a slightly sweet, gently hopped ale with a very complex
flavor. Look for this one. I don't know about availability but if it has
been properly kept during shipping, it's a winner. Now the food. The cheese
is made by the monks with milk from cows which are fed the spent grains from
the brewing operation. Most of the Trappists make cheese, but the Westmalle
cheese is the best we tasted. The mustard they serve with it is the hottest
I've ever had, and I've had a few. They mix horseradish with the mustard for
an extra kick. Sinuses clogged? Not after a dose of this stuff. It's called
De Kroon. We each bought a bottle from out host as well as a large block of
cheese, as he said they were temporary out of it at the monastery. They have
a special door just for cheese sales there, well I'm getting ahead of
myself, feels like time to wrap this one up, so...

     As we were sitting, sipping our latest round, nibbling on cheese with
kickin' mustard we noticed two vans come from the monastery across the road,
park in the restaurant lot and disgorge a load of foreigners whose dress
seemed strangely familiar. Hmmmm.

Next time - More Westmalle, Sterkins

Pictures - Streets of Antwerp, Westmalle abbey