Well it's been a long dusty trail and it's not over yet. These cattle
drives just seem to go on forever anymore. What was planned as a couple of
weeks journey has stretched into months, but I'm a gonna keep moseyin' on
toward the setting sun as long as ol' paint will carry me. Oh, here comes a
waterin' hole, yea.

     At breakfast in Charlie Rockets bar Zeke and Tony told me that last
night they had gone back to the Beers of Bruges for a while then tried a
place across the way that had all you can eat ribs. Wow, all you can eat
ribs, in West Flanders, neat, sorry I missed that one. After the meal we
packed up and said our goodbyes to one of the most beautiful towns in the
world. We were heading west to the sea. Well, north actually. Nordwest.

     Although it had nothing to do with beer, we wanted to see the coast as
it was just a little out of our way. We headed to the town of Zeebrugge on
the North Sea. It was a nice trip past many freshly plowed fields awaiting
the seeds that wouldn't have to face the drought we experienced back home.
Arriving at the coast we saw many signs a commercial shipping in the north
part of the town with a resort in the south. We took a short walk to the
beach to get sand in our toes and see the surf.

     We then hugged the coast and passed through many resort town on our way
southwest to Poperinge. They were very much like the towns downashore New
Jersey except smaller. There was activity but not the crowds that accompany
the high season of summer. Then after about a dozen shore resorts we turned
southwest and eventually with one or two wrong turns we found our way to the
major hop growing area of West Flanders. We spotted many hop fields on the
way to Poperinge, the town at the center of the hop region but since it was
so early in the growing season, the plants themselves were only inches high.
We went to town and spotted the big Green "I", but it was closed. Since it
was opening in 15 minutes or so we killed a little time walking through town
(just a small village, really) and came back to the "I" in apiece, I reckon.

     Upon entering we asked the infodude if he spoke English. "You betcha,
Jack, sure thing dude," he replied. He then went on to show us everything
about the area that could be interesting to anyone, from the history buff
(WWII battlefields) to the liquid malted beverage enthusiast (Hop Ring Tour).
He also helped us with our Epicurean quest. Before leaving the US, I had
read about several dishes prepared with the young hop shoots that are cut to
thin the crop. Waste not and all that. Rather than compost them, some
enterprising chefs found that they are a tasteful addition to a various
dishes served in the area. Our host told us that although he thought the
season was over for the delicacy, we might find some still at the Gasthof De
Kring (the crane) just around the corner. We thanked the friendly fellow for
all his help and headed for "The Crane".

     The place was a little fancy but we got a table and ordered some
Poperings Hommelbier. This stuff tastes great and is less filling, not to
mention 7.5% Alcohol, but it tastes light and beautifully hoppy. Not killer
bitter, but a great aroma/flavor mix. It would be easy to drink a lot of
these. Anyway , then the waiter brought the menus and we asked if he had any
of the hop shoot dishes. He said he thought so but would check. After a trip
to the kitchen the waiter informed us that there were only enough hops for
four dishes. We got two of them and did a 3 for 2 split as everything in
this place was expensive. They were great but the hops flavor was either
very delicate or, as last of the batch, they had lost their flavor. The
absence of a noticeable hop flavor did not diminish the fact that both
dishes were great. We got a cold one of veal and cheese and a warm one of
smoked salmon with a sauce. They each had a generous portion of shoots on
top. After an another round of beer we split, rejuvenated and refreshed,
ready for another ride down the cowpath in the stagecoach Seat.

     Next stop on the line, Westvleteren, and yes, there is an Oostvleteren.
The Abbey is at a crossroad with it on one corner and the
bar/restaurant/gift shop across the street on the other, a parking lot and
not much else cepten' farmland. Oh, and the drive through beer stand.

     A tumbleweed blew past as we walked through the swinging doors, stepped
up to the bar and shouted, whiskey. They told us to shut up, sit down and
drink beer. We said ok, give us a 6, a 8, and a 12. This place was the
opposite of  Westmalle. It was small, plain and not much of a menu, but we
could buy the mythical 12 in the gift shop in 6 packs. They were only
selling 8 at the drive through and it was all right, but the 12 was what we
all wanted. So after a couple of rounds we drove through the drive through
because you have to, don't you? We talked to the brothers, were assured that
we couldn't tour the brewery and yes, they were only selling 8 and no, we
couldn't buy a case anyway because they were returnable and we wouldn't be
returning, at lease not fer apiece.

     This is when we went back to the gift shop, bought six packs, and got
outta Dodge. Hi Ho Steverino, Silver, Seat, whatever. Who were those masked
men?

Next time - Mons

Pictures - Other side of the ocean, Drive Thru Beer!