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W-30 Engine specs to run High 11's |
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The purpose of this web page is to share info on how to run high 11's and still drive 125 miles to the track. I have 20 years experience of racing and I have set up my car in a certain way to get the most bang for the buck. I am not a purist but not all chrome either. I like the Look Stock and Haul tail concept. In short, I am sharing my engine and chassis info to everyone that would want it. Good luck and share you stories with me regards WMACHINES (Mark Prince) SHORT BLOCK INFO::
Ok, here's my set up. I have a 72 455 F block that I had bored .030 over with torque plates. I took the
Nodular Iron crank and had it cross drilled and chamfered and the counter weights were deburred and the crank was cut mid range .010/.010.
I had the block decked so that I have .017 thousands piston to deck clearance, and
using a set of factory steel shim head gaskets that are .017 when compressed. Felpro
blue gaskets are .041 when compressed.
I am using the stock piston rods with F2323-.030 Speed-Pro pistons with
Speed-Pro file fit plasma molly rings. I have a Toronado 5qt. pan with windage trays and a crank scraper. The oil pump is a Melling Hv with
Toronado pickup tube from Mondello. I am using a Cloyes
True Roller double timing chain. My cam is a Dave Smith Racing cam and the specs are as follow: at .050 duration intake 244 and exhaust 254 the lift is 565 In and 545 Ex with a 110 center line. Advertise duration is 308. I am using Mondello 7400 roller rockers and Mondello harden pushrods with restricted oil holes and Perfect Circle HP lifters. I set the cam in at O degrees or called straight up. Other bits of advice is that you can use a 460 Ford rear main seal which is the same size as an Olds. For the pan gasket, use a 350 Olds diesel because it has a steel shim to prevent squashing.
The Heads, I am using are "GA" heads that have been milled .080 on bottom and to give me
70cc of volume. And the intake
side of the head has been milled .040 to allow the intake to fit with no problems. The valves are Milodon stainless steel intake 2.072 and exhaust 1.710 with a 5 angle valve job. The center divider on exhaust side was welded and milled smooth and # 3 and # 6 heat risers were welded,
instead of using
Mondello Heat block mix. The Heads also have been ported
CARB AND INTAKE: I am using the Mondello valley tray and the factory W-30 aluminum intake. The carb is a Rochester Q-jet 4-bbl. I installed new shaft bushings. I am using # 74 jets and 36 primary metering rods with CC secondary metering rods with a V hangar. The cfm rate is 795 cfm and the carb # is 7042251. I am not using the paper filter in the carb. For the fuel system, I am using a Edelbrock 160 GPH electric fuel pump and billet regulator through the stock 3/8th fuel lines I am using the stock pickup in the gas tank and the fuel regulator is set at 7 PSI.
EXHAUST: For exhaust I am using a set of ceramic coated Hooker headers with 1 7/8 primary tubes with a 3 1/2 inch exhaust to an X-Pipe then to 3 inch for the rest of the exhaust. I am using Flowmaster 3 inch mufflers and 3 inch tail pipes.
IGNITION & MISC I am using the MSD pro billet distributor and the Standard Ignition coil and MSD 6A box with NGK 5670-7 spark plugs gapped at .050. The wires are Accel black 8mm wires. I have power steering and the GM thermo clutch fan and a 160 degree thermostat. I am using Mobil 1 Synthetic 15W50 and a K&N 3.5 air filter and K&N air filter lid.
It is also important how you set up your car. I am using a Chevy 12 bolt rearend with a Moroso Brute
Strength carrier with a 4:10 ring and pinion, Moser axles and three inch
studs. This rearend also has the Ford axel bearing setup. For tires I am using
M/T Dot 275/60R15 Drag Radials on 15x8 inch rims. I am also using a TH400 transmission with a
trans pak kit. For the converter I am using a ATI treemaster that stalls at 3500 RPM.
I also installed a set of airlift air bags in the rear.
I am also using 90/10 drag shocks in the front and gabriel shocks in the rear with the front sway bar removed.
I have also added polyurethane bushings in the front and
rear end of the car.
DRIVER AND CAR
UPDATES:
If I drive the car without hot rodding, I get about 10mpg. This motor was built for street and strip. I drove the car to Norwalk
drag way which is about 125 miles from my home and I run quarter mile times of
11.90's constantly.
If you have any questions, I'll be glad to help. I set my idle at 1000 RPM
and pull 11 inches of vacuum. My car is hs manual disc brakes.
My shift point is 5600RPM when racing.
New info: On October 24, 2006 at Milan
Dragway with the temp outside at 74 degrees and 55% humidity, I got my car to
run a 1.63 60ft. with a new ET of 11.77 @ 113.74 mph. With a
backup run of 11.79 113.58 mph
I also would like to tell you that if you are looking for head work on your Oldsmobile heads
especially porting and polishing work, I recommend my friend |
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Updated on June 2007 |
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