San Juan 28 Owners Manual - Section 1

Table of Contents,  Section 1,  Section 2,  Section 3,


GENERAL DATA AND MAINTENANCE

SPECIFICATIONS

LOA28'-8"
LWL22'-4"
Beam10'-0"
Draft4'-6"
Displacement6,200 lbs.
Ballast (lead)3,100 lbs.
Headroom6'-4"
Sail Area (Main & 100% fore)385 sq. ft.
P33.0 ft.
I37.75 ft.
J12.0 ft.
E9.5 ft.
Maximum LP 
         150%18.0 ft.
     or 170%20.4 ft.
Spinnaker Girth21.6 ft.
     Leech Length37.9 ft.
Head Board Size4.5 in.
Batten Lengths23.0 in.
 25.0 in.
 25.0 in.
 23.0 in.

 

RIGGING

Standing rigging should be inspected periodically for broken strands or loose bolts and clevis pins.

Water line to masthead dimension is approximately 41 feet.

Rigging lengths turnbuckles 2/3 open measured pin to pin. (1x19 wire)

7/32 Forestay38'-11"3/8 pin
3/16 Backstay39'-10 3/4"5/16 pin
7/32 Upper Shroud37'-3/4"3/8 pin
7/32 Lower Shroud19'-0"3/8 pin

Running rigging may become stiff with dirt and salt after use. This can be remedied by washing in light detergent or flushing with a garden hose.

Always tie a figure eight knot in the ends of the genoa sheets and halyards to prevent them from coming out of blocks of fairheads. Never tie stop knots in spinnaker sheets.

MAST & BOOM

The mast and boom of your San Juan 28 are high quality aluminum. Wash the mast and boom with fresh water frequently to give the aluminum protection from salt spray and natural elements. It is good to tie all halyards and shrouds away from mast while motoring and at mooring to prevent chafing the finish. A clean mast and rigging helps keep sails clean. Your racing mast may be provided with a triple headsail halyard system. All sails may be raised on the rope halyard, but only the genoa or staysails should normally be hoisted on the wire halyards. Inspect the masthead prior to stepping the mast to help understand the system.

 

KEEL

The San Juan 28 keel is a modern shape for maximum lift and speed. After shipping, tighten the nuts while the weight of the keel is on the cradle, as well as checking them for tightness upon every haulout.

Your keel has been painted at the factory with the finest available marine metal primer. It is recommended that if you sand through the paint, you apply another caot of primer. It should be noted that no paint sticks excellently to lead. We have tried to select the best paint, however, a certain percentage of keels will blister depending on the local water conditions. If you determine another paint works better in your local area, don't hesitate to apply it.

BOTTOM PAINT

Bottom paint is recommended on all boats left in the water to help avoid gel-coat "blistering" in underwater sections. Gel-coat should be sanded with 100 grit paper before painting. Consult your local marina for the type and brand of bottom paint that has proven successful in your home waters.

 

ANCHOR LOCKER

The anchor locker holds a danforth 12H anchor with chain and line.

 

RUDDER

The rudder stock is a heavy duty stainless stee, 2-7/8" diameter tube, held in a fiberglass tube. After a time the fiberglass tube may wear, allowing the rudder to wiggle. If this becomes objectionable, the rudder cap may be removed by loosening the bolt holding the cps on. The rudder may then be dropped down and a teflon or mylar shim may be inserted. Uses 3-19 mil thick material. Cut strips as long as the stock and 2" wide. Up to ten strips may be required. Check tightness of bolts in head periodically. Ensure tiller is lashed when the boat is moored or excessive wear will occur within the rudder tube. Upon every haulout grease the rudder stock well with marine grease.

FITTINGS

All fittings are stainless steel, aluminum, or high impact plastic. All good quality stainless has a slight amount of carbon steel in the alloy, therefore, you may notice a slight rust flim occasionally. This will clean up with soap and water, and occasionally a mild abrasive soap, such as Ajax or Comet can be employed. A good boat wash after salt water sailing will help kepp your fitting looking like new.

WINCHES

The winches are of the highest quality but may become stiff with use due to the ingress of dirt and salt. To clean, carefully remove the drum and flush with fresh water, wash bearings in kerosene, and re-lubricate with white grease of the water resistant type.

COCKPIT DRAINS

In extreme conditions, when the cockpit may be filled in a knockdown or by pooping, insert the companionway door for safety to preserve the self bailing characteristics of the cockpit.

FORWARD & SLIDING PLEXIGLASS HATCHES

The hatches are plexiglass and small scratches may be removed with plexiglass cleaner. Non-skid tape is recommended over the hatch surface for safety.

SANITATION SYSTEM

PAR MINTANK Holding Tank (optional)

BATTERY

A heavy duty 12 volt battery in a plastic case is provided when optional inboard power is ordered. The battery is in the port lazzerette and must be kept securely fastened. The battery emits explosive hydrogen gas while charging.

 

TEAKWOOD CARE

Many sailors prefer to let their teakwood 'bleach' and thus do nothing for maintenance. To preserve the oiled finish it is necessary to re-oil the teak with good teak oil such as Watco whenever it becomes noticeably weathered. In areas of high pollution the teak may become black without frequent oiling.

 

CUSHIONS

Care must be taken to prevent mildew by turning cushions upright when leaving the boat. When the boat is out of use for a longer time, remove the cushions and store in a dry place.

FIBERGLASS SURFACES

Although the fiberglass surfaces are maintenance free, a litte care is needed to keep the boat in like-new condition. Frequent washings with soap and water will keep abrasive dirt and salt off the hull and deck (which helps also to keep sails clean). A good paste wax applied at least twice a year will preserve the gloss and help prevent oxidation. Remember, strong detergents and abrasive cleaners remove wax so be sure to re-wax after their use. Do Not wax the non-skid areas.

HOW TO REPAIR SCRATCHES

Follow these step by step directions to a successful repair of your fiberglass boat.

Deep Scratches

1. Scratch must be clean and dry; scrape with the point of a knife to clean the scratch.
2. Mix color with 5% catalyst (hardener). For one teaspoon of color add two drops of catalyst; for temperatures below 60 degrees use three drops upthe four drops.
3. Use a small paint brush, stick, or Q-tip to flow color in scratch. If color is too thin, wait until it begins to thicken (work time will then be reduced to about five minutes). Fill scratch slightly higher than original color - your mix will shrink.
4. Wait until patch is hard, not rubbery to the touch. Then sand with dry or wet sandpaper to level scratch. As coarse as 360 grit may be used but must be followed with 400 then 600 grit to remove sanding scratches.

Important:   When leveling patch, make sure to avoid sanding around the fill as it is possible to sand through the original color which is approximately 1/32" thick. In many cases a sading block helps avoid this.

5. Rub to a shine with Dupont 202 or other medium grit rubbing compound.

Light Scratches

1. Merely sanding lightly with 600 grit wet or dry with rubbing compound.

Helpful Hints

Wax paper over a fresh patch helps level it until set. Shine will improve with waxing.

RACING GEAR

Racing gear and pole are optional equipment. The system is designed for "end to end" jibing of the pole, but "dip pole" jibingmay be used in strong airs with the addition of 1/2" "lazy guys" attached to the toerail in front of the middle stantion. The upper lifeline may be loosened to prevent the spinnaker sheet or guy from chafing the lifeline.

 

 

PROP SIZES

FixedFolding
Atomic 4   (1:1)14x6RH 14x6RH
Volvo 7A 14x9LH 14x9LH
Yanmar YS 12 14x10RH 14x10RH
Yanmar QM 15 14x14RH 14x14RH

 



  YANMAR SERVICE BULLETIN
September 16, 1977
77-30

WINTERIZING A SMALL DIESEL ENGINE (MARINE/INDUSTRIAL)

  1. Don't leave an engine outdoors. Prevent an engine from being exposed to rain/seabreeze.
  2. Try to keep an engine in a well ventilated area and protected from dampness.
  3. Apply a thin anti corrosion treatment on the plating and exposed painted surfaces.
  4. Turn engine slowly with hand crank for instructions 4 & 5.

    Pour a little lubricating oil slowly into the suction pipe while turning the engine, until the oil reaches the intake and exhaust valves for the prevention of corrosion inside of the cylinders. Use about 2 ounces of oil.

  5. Stop turning when piston reaches top dead center on the compression stroke, so that the intake and exhaust vavles are completely closed.
  6. Drain the cooling water completely out of the engine. Close seawater cock before opening sea water pump.
  7. Remove water pump impeller and pack water pump body with a waterproof type grease.
  8. Flush cooling system with a methanol and water solution approximately 50 - 50.
  9. Drain cooling system thoroughly.
  10. Remove fuel completely from allfuel lines to prevent corrosion caused by water and sediment in the fuel oil.
  11. Drain and clean all fuel filters, change elements.
  12. Disconnect the battery cables, clean terminal ends with a solution of baking soda and water. Protect your eyes and skin while cleaning this. Apply a light film of grease to the terminal ends.
  13. Remove battery from boat and store in warm, dry environment. Use a trickle charger to keep the battery at the peak of charge.
  14. Drain crankcase and refill with fresh oil.
  15. Drain transmission and refill with fresh oil.
  16. Change oil filters.
  17. Place a dust cover over engine.

 

Table of Contents,  Section 1,  Section 2,  Section 3,

Last updated: May 23, 2002
Transcribed by William R. Sindt with permission from
Gene Adams, Port Gardner Sailboats.