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Brand new 11 or/and 90 degree target crown cutter with 11 brass pilots. This tool set includes 1 cutter or 2 cutters, 1 handle and total of 10 brass pilots for 7.62mm(fits caliber 30, 308 and 30-06), 6.5mm,7.5mm, 8mm Mauser,6mm,7mm,303 British, 9mm,270, 22/223.
What does the tool look like?

Why does this tool work?
The main purpose of a firearm!/s muzzle crown is to provide propellant gases a resistance free path away from all parts of the projectile as it exits the bore. The other purpose is to protect the bore from damage and for good looking.
There are two most common types of target crown - the 'step' and the '11
degree'. The muzzle of the step crown is first cut 90 degrees of barrel
(square) then about half the muzzle radius is counter sunk. The muzzle of the
11 degree crown is sunk at an angle of 11 degrees from square (79 degrees of
barrel). Almost experts believe that 11 degree crown is the better choice than
step crown .
How much does it cost?
All parts of tool can be purchased from major vendors rather expensively. Normally the cutter is $80.00/each.The pilot is $26/each and the handle will cost another $25.00. You are expected to pay more than $100 for one set tool with only one pilot plus shipping.
My 11 degree crowning cutter
How to use this tool?
Below is detailed the tool and procedures on how to apply 11 degree target crown to the muzzle of a rifle.

The original factory crown.
Honing oil should be
applied to cutter and muzzle before cutting starts. It is also a good idea to
apply oil to pilot to reduce the friction to rifling lands. Periodically stop
and clean metal shavings from muzzle, bore and tool. Honing oil is re-applied
before cutting continues. The oil used here is honing oil sold for knife
sharpening.



Left (C 11 degree
crown cutter with pilot inside bore, before cutting.
Center - beginning of target crown after only a dozen light 1/2 rotations of
cutter. Care should be taken to keep consistent and light downward pressure
centered on bore so pilot does not wobble. Cutting is performed slowly and can
be stopped and resumed at will. However it is important to keep cutting
surfaces coated with the oil and to clean metal shavings from bore, muzzle and
cutter before re-inserting pilot to keep shavings from getting between cutter
face and muzzle.
When cutting goes deeper into muzzle,
cutting slows down because more muzzle face is contacting cutter surface.
Cutting is often stopped to check for depth and to clean away shavings. The
muzzle becomes very sharp where it enters the bore and ruff cutting is stopped
just short of maximum barrel radius.



Left - finish cutting is
performed with increasingly lighter pressure as cutting progresses until
almost only the
weight of tool is applied to the muzzle.
Center - crown after finish cutting.
Right - a thin and even amount of 000 steel wool is placed on cutter
face and used to lightly burnish any microscopic burrs off muzzle crown. Care
should be taken to flatten the wool against the cutter face before inserting
pilot into bore and it is important not to over burnish using this method
because any steel fibers accidentally allowed into bore could damage rifling
lands.
At last two or three coats of bluing agent should be applied to muzzle. After
each application the muzzle was wiped with dry towel and lightly polished using
0000 steel wool.
Where can I get this tool?
Please click on the following icon
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